Any updates/progress?
Engine Clacking Noise - Cracked Clutch Damage
Any updates/progress?
fazil
Junior Member
What happened at the end?
Wanted to update you all. I am still working on the bike. I didn't feel a huge urgency to work on the engine during winter. But now I'm going stir crazy after not riding for so long. I started working on it again last week, and I should have it done in the next few weeks just in time for spring.
So I decided to just outright replace the whole crankshaft and clutch basket with new factory parts. I'm just not equipped or able to clean those damaged gears up to the necessary tolerance. Especially without the original dimensions and tolerances. I gave the transmission a close visual inspection and it appears to be fine. I currently have the engine crankcase split on my dining room table and am in the process of installing the new shell bearings and crank. I'll take some more pictures when I get home tonight.
I think I'll take the old crank and turn it into a desk lamp. I'll make a thread for that too when I get around to it.
So I decided to just outright replace the whole crankshaft and clutch basket with new factory parts. I'm just not equipped or able to clean those damaged gears up to the necessary tolerance. Especially without the original dimensions and tolerances. I gave the transmission a close visual inspection and it appears to be fine. I currently have the engine crankcase split on my dining room table and am in the process of installing the new shell bearings and crank. I'll take some more pictures when I get home tonight.
I think I'll take the old crank and turn it into a desk lamp. I'll make a thread for that too when I get around to it.
fazil
Junior Member
After changing all those major parts, you can find a small screw causing all that trouble. That has happened to me with my car once. Feels like 
Keep us posted please. One of my friend's bike has the same noise recently started. Here below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuEU7_OGaM
Keep us posted please. One of my friend's bike has the same noise recently started. Here below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuEU7_OGaM
Repair Part 1 (crankcase split, new crank installed):
Attached are three pictures showing where I'm at now. The table is kinda cluttered, I have a very limited amount of space
I'm getting ready to plastigauge all the new bearings to check the oil clearances.
The mating surfaces were scraped clean using a plastic scraper from amazon. Plastic because aluminum is so soft. Apparently you can scrape aluminum with steel razors, but you have to be very careful not to gouge or scratch it. With the plastic I could get medieval on it. It was terribly boring, one of the reasons this has taken so long. Scraping gasket material is not my favorite thing to do.
Nothing really special to say at this point. It was pretty straightforward disassembling it, just followed the factory service manual and the Haynes. Only time I had to get creative was removing the generator pulley. That sucked. Motion Pro has no tools that fit our engines. I had to use a generic harmonic balancer puller.
Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set
There were only two bolts the right thread and length so I had to improvise with other hardware I had. Three bolts are needed.
I have a lapel mic and head mounted action cam I'm trying out for another project. Maybe I'll throw it on and record some of the engine work. Assembly is where it gets interesting.
Attached are three pictures showing where I'm at now. The table is kinda cluttered, I have a very limited amount of space
I'm getting ready to plastigauge all the new bearings to check the oil clearances.
The mating surfaces were scraped clean using a plastic scraper from amazon. Plastic because aluminum is so soft. Apparently you can scrape aluminum with steel razors, but you have to be very careful not to gouge or scratch it. With the plastic I could get medieval on it. It was terribly boring, one of the reasons this has taken so long. Scraping gasket material is not my favorite thing to do.
Nothing really special to say at this point. It was pretty straightforward disassembling it, just followed the factory service manual and the Haynes. Only time I had to get creative was removing the generator pulley. That sucked. Motion Pro has no tools that fit our engines. I had to use a generic harmonic balancer puller.
Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set
There were only two bolts the right thread and length so I had to improvise with other hardware I had. Three bolts are needed.
I have a lapel mic and head mounted action cam I'm trying out for another project. Maybe I'll throw it on and record some of the engine work. Assembly is where it gets interesting.
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ChanceCoats123
Junior Member
Thanks for the update and keep up the good work. I love seeing pictures of engine guts. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Thanks. I love it too. I've seen lots of car engines in person, but never a motorcycle engine. It's amazing how space efficient they are. Yet they push so much performance through them.
WOW! Good Job for not being mechanically inclined. :thumbup:
I'm sure this is in the manuals, but I'll state it anyway, do not allow any rotation of the the crank or rods when checking clearances using plastigauge material. It will give a false reading and you'll have to repeat the whole torque sequence. And no oil on the journals.
Good luck!
I'm sure this is in the manuals, but I'll state it anyway, do not allow any rotation of the the crank or rods when checking clearances using plastigauge material. It will give a false reading and you'll have to repeat the whole torque sequence. And no oil on the journals.
Good luck!
2007Z6ALL-LED
Member
Man,,this is awesome to see the progress, how the engine guts look like!
If it were me, I would part mine and sell parts and get another bike LOL!:rockon:
If it were me, I would part mine and sell parts and get another bike LOL!:rockon:
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Attached are three pictures showing where I'm at now. The table is kinda cluttered, I have a very limited amount of space
.
Engine porn, luv it!!! :spank:
fazil
Junior Member
Looks like brand new. Did you find any debris around gears?
I found the debris and gear damage before I pulled the engine.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/showpost.php?p=591089&postcount=17
I only pulled the engine because I had visual confirmation the crank gear was damaged.
fazil
Junior Member
Keep us posted please. One of my friend's bike has the same noise recently started. Here below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuEU7_OGaM
Fresh news about the video at the top. After disassembling the engine, they found out that one of the connecting road bearings were scattered.
Engine has 75K Km. Oil pump seems working normal, they'll check the oil passages today.
My friend says, this noise happened 5 minutes later then he accidentaly put the gear into first to accelarate at the speed 110km/h while he was trying to catch an other bike, meanwhile the rev limiter kick in. He says didn't know that he was in the 2nd gear, at that speed, but downshifting into first was smooth at that moment he says.
Some scenes:
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Great pic's and video... Pretty big and expensive boo boo on his part...
At least its very obvious what exactly failed. The improper dowshift won't stop the engine @14k from winding up farther
I'd put money that WAY OVER rev was just too much for the engine/bearing/oil...
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fazil
Junior Member
I thought the same thing when he told about that. Rev limiter just cut the electronics but mechanicaly, movement can't be stopped. I thought clutch could also break and stuck the oil lines to make that noise. But it seems problem is worse than that.
FWIW - it doesn't cut the ignition spark during rev limit, its the fuel injection being chopped! Cutting the spark would have RAW FUEL being thrown into cylinders and oil washout occurs. Plus the FED's would be crying about the emissions and raw gas into the catalytic converter.
Just a WAG but I'd say this was underway before the bearing failed as the mains look trashed as well as the rust on the rods from sitting somewhere at high moisture levels. There may be more to that story than meets the eye.
- lastly; our tachs are optimistic as the R/L is happening before 14K. Well based upon logs from fuel controller.
kinderwood be sure to replace the rubber seal at the oil pickup into the pump. Should it leak/suck air from being in a new position, damage like that shown above could happen. Hint - easier to suck air than oil and that seal is cheap insurance.
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2007Z6ALL-LED
Member
Darn,,, I would spend $3000 to get another used bike instead LOL!
ozgurakman
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a fine 04-07 fz6 fazer is near $6500 here. So rebuilding is a very fine option IMO :thumbup:
IF driver were attached a gear indicator near to speedo, this scene wouldn't be happened.
To my knowledge this was not due to down shifting and revving past redline. The clutch plates are cast aluminum and I think I had a flaw that developed over time in mine. Rare given Yamaha's QA, but not impossible. At the time the crack occurred I was starting from a stop on a steep incline. It cracked as I was releasing the clutch and applying power, maybe moving around 5 mph.
Also, a brand new crank was $450, clutch basket was $250, new clutch $100, & new bearings around $120. So I'm around $1k in parts so far, $0 in labor. So buying a new bike wouldn't be cost effective. Buying a used engine would have been. However, I know that I cared for my engine, didn't excessively flog it, always changed oil and used high quality oil. Add to that all the knowledge I learned while doing this and the fact I do enjoy working on mechanical things.
