Engine Clacking Noise - Cracked Clutch Damage

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A good observation about the scoring, hadn't thought of that. I do have it off. So cleaning the valve face would ok?

If I understand correctly, I need to watch out for:
1) Rotating the valves
2) Double checking all carbon debris is removed from the valve seat area so it doesn't get jammed in there and cause a leaky valve

I would just clean them as you did the pistons just being more careful NOT to nick the head and cause a hot spot. Unless you put a "suction cup, valve turning tool" (for lapping valves), you won't be spinning those valves even if you wanted to, the springs would be keeping them tight...

Now, if you find one combustion chamber leaked out dry over night, some more investigation is due as a valve / valve seat is leaking.

Looking at the valve stems inside the head (runners) reveals a bunch as well. If you see more carbon build up on one valve STEM than the others, you likely have a leaky valve seal allowing oil in there and to accumulate to the valve (very hard on performance). Your engine looks super clean inside for the mileage, I have to doubt you'll find any issues, but your there already...:thumbup:

I had that happen on my KLR 250 (single, 4 valves, ONE exhaust valve gunked up). It didn't have much power to start with but a bridge I traveled over to to get to work NOW needed down shifting and WOT where before, leave it in top gear and accelerate..

 

[FinalImpact]

Regular 87 octane. For the first 10k of the bikes life I usually filled up at Wawa (convenience store like 7-11 for those away from the mid-atlantic). I was a poor college student. Now it usually gets Shell, Sunoco, or BP.

Working on cleaning up old gasket material from the deck and head to mount the head back on! Hopefully get it bolted on tonight. More pictures to come.

Perhaps a shot of the trusty intake port(s) from a couple angles?? My curiosity is the alignement of the intake boots to the port. From all I've seen the intake port is larger than the TB adapter boot which makes a reversion in flow.
Oh and Exhaust if lighting permits!!!! :thumbup: Tks
​

As for the carbon build up in the combustion chamber, you can leave it or clean it with a soft brass or even steel brush, just don't use solvents as the carbon can flow into places it doesn't belong. Blow it off with compressed air. You can likely push the valves open by hand and blow the seats clean from the port side. Just NO solvent into the valve stem int/exh port area as it displaces the oil and also carries the abrasive carbon into the stem.

Same goes for the rings / pistons. No solvents. Oil the walls, spin it through a wipe up what stays behind on each stroke. Oil it some more and repeat until there are no deposits left on the wall.

Last little bit: I think driving/riding habits play a role (+engine health) in engine deposits. More flow = less deposits. Engines that do short trips and get lugged have more deposits.

Again, thanks for sharing this info...

 

[FinalImpact]

Scott,
Looks like we were posting at the same time. I got a call and stepped away only to see differing opinions on cleaning. Here are my thoughts:

IME - 30+ cage complete overhauls, 20+ head gaskets successfully replaced, and maybe 15+ bike engine overhauls:

Carbon is hard and destructive! I would NOT advise filling a port combustion chamber with solvent UNLESS YOU INTEND TO REMOVE THE VALVES and Clean and OIL the stems!

I've seen people use solvents and it dilutes the oil in the valve stem which reduces it life. The net results is the valve stem and guide fail from running without lube for a period of time. I also believe that breaking the carbon into small particles allows its abrasive grit to flow into the guide (with the aid of solvent) and further perpetuate damage which leads to failure - smoking on deceleration.

IME: Mechanically remove the stuff that comes off easy and leave the rest alone, UNLESS YOU INTEND TO REMOVE THE VALVES! Blowing Volumes of air INTO an OPEN PORT (valve open) offers a venturi effect of sucking debris out of the port and valve stem.

Some folks are fine cleaning the mating surface and throwing it back together. Usually no harm comes from this. Others like to clean stuff. If you clean it, be prepared to OIL IT!

Thats my 2C on the topic...

 

[kinderwood]

Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it.

Scott,
[snip]Carbon is hard and destructive! I would NOT advise filling a port combustion chamber with solvent UNLESS YOU INTEND TO REMOVE THE VALVES and Clean and OIL the stems!

I've seen people use solvents and it dilutes the oil in the valve stem which reduces it life. The net results is the valve stem and guide fail from running without lube for a period of time. I also believe that breaking the carbon into small particles allows its abrasive grit to flow into the guide (with the aid of solvent) and further perpetuate damage which leads to failure - smoking on deceleration.
[snip]

This makes sense to me. I guess it comes down to risk vs reward. I'd rather leave the carbon alone than risk abrading key clearances. I decided tonight to clean the deck/mating level on the head and leave the valve area alone. The carbon does not appear that bad.

Unfortunately I had already cleaned the piston tops by flooding them in acetone & brake cleaner some time ago (I was out of Seafoam, worked pretty good). If I had read your pointers I would have done them differently! I noticed like you pointed out, it was leaving carbon pieces behind on the cylinder walls when I cycled the pistons. I solved that problem like you suggested, oil/cycle piston/wipe clean/repeat until no more was left behind. Hopefully if any particles are left down there they work their way out during normal running.

I am turning in for the night. Maybe get this thing bolted up tomorrow. I'll see what I can do regarding the requested pictures as well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If solvents leak past the valves, there's an issue and the valve SHOULD COME OUT and checked/replaced/seals addressed.

Seafoam simply softens up the deposites. Scubbing with a toothbrush and blowing clean, you'll know when its clean (just like the piston tops)

BTW, Seafoam is designed to be used in the engine oil as well as the fuel. Its thickness is about a 10w oil so its not like putting laquer thinner, etc in the seal/engine oil..

If in doubt about oil getting washed away off the stem, (it shouldn't if there's NOT an issue), simply squirting a little bit of oil on the stem (with the head upside down) so the oil can re-soak in there will cover it.

To leave the head loaded with carbon, (being your this deep) IMO, can allow for potential detonation on a high spot, higher compression, etc.

As noted, your head is pretty clean and wouldn't take much to clean.

However, of course its your choice. My 2c's. :thumbup:

 

[kinderwood]

If solvents leak past the valves, there's an issue and the valve SHOULD COME OUT and checked/replaced/seals addressed.

Seafoam simply softens up the deposites. Scubbing with a toothbrush and blowing clean, you'll know when its clean (just like the piston tops)

BTW, Seafoam is designed to be used in the engine oil as well as the fuel. Its thickness is about a 10w oil so its not like putting laquer thinner, etc in the seal/engine oil..

If in doubt about oil getting washed away off the stem, (it shouldn't if there's NOT an issue), simply squirting a little bit of oil on the stem (with the head upside down) so the oil can re-soak in there will cover it.

To leave the head loaded with carbon, (being your this deep) IMO, can allow for potential detonation on a high spot, higher compression, etc.

As noted, your head is pretty clean and wouldn't take much to clean.

However, of course its your choice. My 2c's. :thumbup:

You guys rock, very good advice. Both of you made compelling logical points. In the past when I used seafoam I just dumped it in the gas tank. I never observed it up close. I went out and got a can last night and it does have a viscous oil like consistency, never knew that. Figured I cleaned the rest, what the hell, and put a small amount on the head this morning. I applied a thin film with a brush. I'll check it this evening. As I was brushing it on, the white brush was already pickup up a lovely brown/black color. Hopefully a sign it is attacking it.

Also, I picked up a cheap chinese borescope with decent image quality from Amazon. Needed it for an unrelated project, but maybe I'll thread it into the exhaust port for ****s and giggles. Should be here tomorrow.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/LEMONBEST-Handheld-Inspection-Endoscope-Borescope/dp/B00LSJBJWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429280098&sr=8-1&keywords=lemonbest+borescope"]Amazon Borescope[/ame]

More news and pictures to come.