Slightly OT, but still FZ6 relevant

[PWABO]

Hi all,

I apologise in advance if this is in the wrong thread, didn't really know where else to put it ;0)

Anyway, I'm looking for a little DIY help please.

I store my beloved FZ6 in my garage, but I have to ramp it up over a proud 20cm threshold on my uPVC door & it can be a real PITA.

So, can I cut the frame at the bottom, remove it when I'm getting the bike in & out & then just put it back in place afterwards?

As you can probably tell I know nothing about doors, but I worry that it may weaken the frame structure somehow, will it?

I'll try & attach some photos of what I mean

 

[PWABO]

Here are the photos; Apologies for the orientation, I'll try & work on that!

 

[PWABO]

Ok, try these! Apologies!

I'll still have a tiny ramp to get up even if I can cut the frame work, but it won't be quite so pronounced.

 

[dschult2]

It won't weaken the frame but it will look like a** when you the put the sill back in unless you want to caulk the cut and repaint every time you take it out. Also it looks like you will still have a bit of a bump up from your soleplate. I would still use your ramp and get somebody to help you if need be. Or better yet you could just ride it in, slow and easy of course. Also you could take the actual door off, that should give you another inch or two of clearance width.

 

[PWABO]

Thanks mate. The width isn't too bad really, but an extra few inches certainly wouldn't go amiss. Think I'm just going to have to dig deep & get the doorway sorted out professionally. This was going to be my cheap fix for now, that would have lasted years had it worked haha!

Thank you for your response bud, much appreciated.

 

[SANGER_A2]

Just build a long ramp out of wood that fits over the sill and you can lean against the wall when not using it.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

+1 to the long ramp. A simple 2"x6"x8' can hold the weight of the FZ6 (that's how I got my bike into the back of my truck when I bought it) and that should make things very easy because there is almost no incline when you use long ramps.

 

[PWABO]

Cheers dudes. Yeah I kinda do that already but with the two pieces of sheet steel that are in the 2nd photo. It does work, I just don't have a great deal of 'run up' room for a long ramp though ;0(

What you can't see from the photo is a conservatory about 7ft from the entrance to the garage, which means for me to line the bike up straight with the garage door & ramp, I literally have to drag the back end around & then push it into the garage from the front of the bike. Riding it in without doing umpteen manoeuvres is an impossibility.

My wife & I have been talking about getting an automated roller shutter for the man-cave for a while, we just can't afford it at the moment.

Thanks for your suggestions guys, I'll just have to get saving.

 

[Motogiro]

Two pieces of 3/4 or 1 inch plywood joined together with door or heavy duty piano hinge. The hinge part straddles the bottom of the door. Up N over and the plywood just folds up at the hinge till you need it again.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Two pieces of 3/4 or 1 inch plywood joined together with door or heavy duty piano hinge. The hinge part straddles the bottom of the door. Up N over and the plywood just folds up at the hinge till you need it again.

Another version of Cliffs would be two separate SHORT(your descretion), angled pieces of wood. Bend a piece of steel to bridge over the actual door frame and screw it together. (Basically a really small bridge with a piece of wood on each side, attached with the steel in the middle)

Doesn't take much room, simply drop over the door frame, the door frame will keep it from moving about..

 

[FinalImpact]

If you use wood and its damp, grab some deck grip. Its a single sided peel and stick adhesive with texture. Hardware store should have it or Skate board shop!

I roll up and over rather steep threshold and its at an angle under power. Mirrors don't fit and bars have to be turned. Ramp is oak 2" X 8" and is at a slight diagonal too boot plus my feet dangle in the air for about foot. Its an accident in the making! :tard:

I would not cut out the threshold if it were mine....

 

[Botch]

I'm not understanding why that doorway was built that way in the first place, looks like a constant tripping hazard.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you use wood and its damp, grab some deck grip. Its a single sided peel and stick adhesive with texture. Hardware store should have it or Skate board shop!

.

Even easier, take a circular saw, set it for 1/4" deep cut, mark off horizontal lines and cut treads right into the wood.

They also make a water based product that you roll or brush on that once the water evaporates, leaves a nice rough, textured finish that you can't see. I used it on the walk around on the boat lift (as it was slick once you raised the boat out of the water). Its not slick anymore..

 

[PWABO]

Thanks everyone. Some very good ideas here. I'm sure I'll come up with something decent. With the right tools & a little bit of nouse, anything can be achieved. ;0)

 

[PWABO]

I'm not understanding why that doorway was built that way in the first place, looks like a constant tripping hazard.

Dunno, I always thought it was quite a common threshold height to help stop water getting in, no? Our front door is the same. In fact, most of our neighbours' are too.

Haven't tripped over it yet! Jinxed it now huh. ;0)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Dunno, I always thought it was quite a common threshold height to help stop water getting in, no? Our front door is the same. In fact, most of our neighbours' are too.

Haven't tripped over it yet! Jinxed it now huh. ;0)

Shoot, that's a lawsuit waiting to happen in the states!!!

The door sills down here are maybe 3/4", but then the floor is about 4" higher than the outside entry way...Then it drops another 4" to the sidewalk...