Information Back on an FZ6, but there's a catch...

[Mutineer]

Hi everyone. It's been 14 years or so since I have been on these forums and I am excited to be back. I had a 2007 FZ6 in 2010 and loved it. I now have a chance to get back on one, this time a 2009 FZS6YL with about 6k original miles on the odometer. It's an unmodified final production year with low mileage, which has me excited... but it needs some work as it has not been ridden or even started in 4.5 years. The owner is a friend of mine (he's the second owner I believe) and only rode the bike a few times before he parked it. It spent about a year outdoors under a cover before he put it in a weather proof shed where it has collected dust for another 3.5 years. I went and saw it today. From what I can tell it will minimally need the following:

• Coolant flush?
• Fuel drained and replaced
• Oil and filter change
• New chain and rear sprocket (rusted)
• New rear brake rotor (rusted / pitted?)
• Possibly new front rotors (maybe just surface rust?)
• New battery

In addition to this the bike probably needs new tires. Tread wise they are literally brand new, having been installed right before the previous owner stopped riding (they have MAYBE 30 miles on them). They are Michelin Pilot Powers and I hate to waste them, but they are now 4.5 years old. I am concerned about flat spots from them sitting. There is no evidence of dry rot, cracking, or damage. Am I just being paranoid?

The bike is blue, which I hear is the fastest color . I looked over it pretty well today and there was no evidence of rodent damage to any wires or hoses. Cosmetically (under the dust) the bike is in like new condition. I'm just trying to get a handle on whether or not I am about to open Pandora's box trying to get this thing going again. I appreciate everyone's input.
-M

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like a great platform to start work on..

Your list sounds good however I would add some oil (not a lot) into each cylinder
before starting as it will be dry in there. Crank for a little bit (remove all fuel before any of this) to
distribute the oil before starting.

Check the brakes for excessive drag from potentially sticking calipers as well..


As you know most of the history of the bike, I wouldn't hesitate bringing it back...

.

 

[Mutineer]

Thanks for your input! I sent some photos to my motorcycle mechanic and told him about the bike's status and known history. He said cleaning the tank, injectors, and fuel pump should be on the list as well as bleeding the brakes. He thinks the rust on the rotors are probably surface rust and they should be fine, so that's some good news... but the rough estimate to get the bike back on the road came in at about $2,200 not including tires and mounting / balancing / installation. This may not be able to get done all at once.

 

[jjmaine]

It would be a great time to start working on your bike yourself and learning it inside and out. With the Internet and plenty of how to videos out there it really is simple to do with basic hand tools.

The money you will save on labor will pay for new tools, front and rear stands etc.

 

[Mutineer]

It would be a great time to start working on your bike yourself and learning it inside and out. With the Internet and plenty of how to videos out there it really is simple to do with basic hand tools.

The money you will save on labor will pay for new tools, front and rear stands etc.

Well that's an interesting point to consider. I have never done anything mechanical other than an oil change / filter, and popping in a new battery. The whole thing is pretty intimidating to be honest.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It would be a great time to start working on your bike yourself and learning it inside and out. With the Internet and plenty of how to videos out there it really is simple to do with basic hand tools.

The money you will save on labor will pay for new tools, front and rear stands etc.

+1 ^^^^.

Everything on your list, you can do...

Do the research, then start wrenching.

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

In my opinion, the greatest value this FZ6 sites offers, is the assistance to those that want to make the leap into maintaining their own machine. Doing your own maintenance is not only financially rewarding, but personally. If you want to jump in and learn, this is your chance. Just ask

 

[Mutineer]

Well then... it looks like I am going to be diving into the world of bike wrenching lol. Thanks for the support everyone. I will start looking into youtube videos and collecting a library of resources. I just bought the Hayne's repair manual online. Weirdly enough the years it covers is 2004 to 2008... I have a 2009, but there really wasn't any difference was there? Seems weird the manual stopped in 2008.

Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for you tube people to follow, or links to great videos? Thanks in advance!

 

[jjmaine]

Sweet! I'm sure the manual will work just fine.

I'd do chain and sprockets, tires, brakes and all fluids to start and then as you ride the bike just address any small issues as they come. As far as the fuel tank goes, I'd check it out with a flashlight and if it looks fine in there I'd drain the old fuel out and run it. I wouldn't pull the injectors out unless the bike didn't run right.

As Gary said it is rewarding and it's a good feeling to know that if your bike has an issue it's no big deal because you can just fix it.

 

[Mutineer]

I'd do chain and sprockets, tires, brakes and all fluids to start and then as you ride the bike just address any small issues as they come. As far as the fuel tank goes, I'd check it out with a flashlight and if it looks fine in there I'd drain the old fuel out and run it. I wouldn't pull the injectors out unless the bike didn't run right.

I did check out the tank with a flashlight and I didn't see any signs of rust or corrosion. Would have been better if it were stored all this time with a full tank, but it doesn't seem like any obvious condensation got in there.

 

[jjmaine]

That is a relief! Dealing with a crusty fuel tank can be a real pain and they are not cheap to replace!

And the manual was most likely published in 2008 (which would have covered the latest year of the Fz6 at that time). I'm sure the 2009 manual is identical.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good mechanic's, that are knowledgeable and give s..t are hard to come by.

I've had dealerships screw up more than they fixed (under warranty).

The only person that wrenches on my bike is my "tire guy".
I bring him the wheels off the bike, tip him very well with caveat-"don't scratch the rims"!

Doing it yourself, you know it's been done and hopefully correct.

PM sent

 

[Gary in NJ]

Mutineer

How’s your tool kit? I’m going to make some recommendations that could make the difference between a good experience and “I’m never doing this again “.

- Don’t use 12-point sockets…ever. 12-pt sockets don’t fully engage the nut/bolt and will round-off the head. Take those out of your tool kit and only use 6-point sockets.

- Get a breaker bar, especially if you are going to be removing nuts that have been secured with loc-tite (like the rotors). I use a ratcheting breaker bar that I got from Harbor Freight and it is Awesome.

- Speaking of Harbor Freight…don’t be a tool snob. I started wrenching with a Craftsman kit 40 years ago…but for the last 20 years I’ve been adding to the kit with HF stuff…and it is fine. They have a value line and a higher grade…get the higher grade.

- Every bolt/fastener has a torque spec. In order to hit that spec you need a torque wrench. I am religious about using a torque wrench and for that reason I’ve never broken a bolt or had one that I couldn’t remove.

- Be mindful of when to use never-seize, grease, or loc-tite (blue and red).

- Get the FSM. If you ask for it someone here will gift you a copy.

 

[Mutineer]

First of all I want to say how amazing this community has been. I appreciate the warm welcome, the encouragement, the resources, and the advice. As far as my tools go, I don't have many. I will definitely look into Harbor Freight for options. I will need a torque wrench and breaker bar for sure. I will also need to invest in a chain breaker, equipment to bleed brakes, and some other basics. I will also have to call my town and ask how to get rid of the old fuel safely. Does anyone have a list of tools that would make up a good motorcycle maintenance starter kit?

I will also need to source the replacement parts. Is there a good US based website to buy direct from or is my best bet going through a local dealer?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Advanced Tool Kit

Master Technicians Tool Set, 428 Piece

Amazing deals on this 428Pc Master Technicians Toolset at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

3/8-Drive Torque Wrench

3/8 in. Drive 20-100 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Drive Click Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

1/2-Drive Torque Wrench

1/2 in. Drive 50-250 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Drive Click Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

1/4-Drive Torque Wrench

1/4 in. Drive 20-200 in. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/4In Dr Click Type Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Plyers

Pliers Set, 6-Piece

Amazing deals on this 6Pc Pliers Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Brake Bleeder Kit
5/16" Clear Hose + Empty Snapple Bottle

If you have a Dremmel tool you have a chain breaker. If not get yourself a breaker/link kit

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/stockton-chain-breaker-and-rivet-tool-kit?sku_id=1124052

I like to use Revzilla when ever possible for parts because they do so much for the motorcycle community (check out the amazing content on youtube). For OEM parts I also have had great luck with ronayers.com

 

[Mutineer]

Advanced Tool Kit

Master Technicians Tool Set, 428 Piece

Amazing deals on this 428Pc Master Technicians Toolset at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

3/8-Drive Torque Wrench

3/8 in. Drive 20-100 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Drive Click Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

1/2-Drive Torque Wrench

1/2 in. Drive 50-250 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Drive Click Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

1/4-Drive Torque Wrench

1/4 in. Drive 20-200 in. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/4In Dr Click Type Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Plyers

Pliers Set, 6-Piece

Amazing deals on this 6Pc Pliers Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Brake Bleeder Kit
5/16" Clear Hose + Empty Snapple Bottle

If you have a Dremmel tool you have a chain breaker. If not get yourself a breaker/link kit

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/stockton-chain-breaker-and-rivet-tool-kit?sku_id=1124052

I like to use Revzilla when ever possible for parts because they do so much for the motorcycle community (check out the amazing content on youtube). For OEM parts I also have had great luck with ronayers.com

Amazing, thank you so much!

 

[Smittyboy]

I've had mine almost 20 years... WOW I'm getting old. 82k miles later, it's only needed wear items. I can't recall, but did anyone mention fork oil/ seals? I ran mine for the first 15 years (didn't know it was a maintenance item) and when I changed it, it made the ride smoother with slightly less nose dive under heavy braking. (I'm fat so there's a lot ) I've gotten everything from HF and haven't had a single problem. It is admittedly intimidating getting started, but these bikes have a really forgiving learning curve. It's always nice to have another member to say hello to.

 

[Mutineer]

No one mentioned the fork oil and seals but that makes sense given they haven't been flexed / compressed in 4.5 years. I think the thing that scares me about this undertaking is my repair budget is not very much at the moment so if I make any mistakes the whole thing will be set back considerably. This is a second bike for me so I don't need it on the road immediately but I don't want half the summer to be over before its ready to roll again either. I don't have a garage so the bikes will be wrenched on in my driveway and stored under a Speedway Shelter. Both good weather and free time after work will have to coalesce regularly to get any forward momentum.

My biggest fear if I am being honest is making the bike worse. Screwing something up that results in it needing to go to the mechanic anyway that ends up taking more time and more money than if I had just sent it to him in the first place. Believe me, I am super interested in fixing and maintaining the bike myself. But it is definitely intimidating when resources are tight and experience is lacking.

You guys have been a huge help with your resources and encouragement. I really appreciate it!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Get it running, do what you have to do, and keep an eye on the seals.

If they leak immediately, then go from there.. If they don't leak at all, LATER,
down the road, at least change the fork oil. That will be stinky..

.

 

[Mutineer]

haha ok sounds good!