DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Well?! The bitch is back....this evening my bike again in 2 cylinders. No yellow light in panel and no code in diag mode.:spank:
cdi dead in yamaha fz6 fazer S2 (europe model)
Z3R0_zhift
New Member
Oh my, it is indeed a pain m8. Battery dead?
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DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Thks for reply . I wish it could be, but bike starts as usual every time. By the way when you need to ride is when actually you can't.
I've been using inside urban but i must wait for riding longer.... I expect tomorrow will be a day for.
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I've been using inside urban but i must wait for riding longer.... I expect tomorrow will be a day for.
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DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Tonigh was in city and throttle fall at sixth km going high rpm. Stopped , wait then going slower.
Back 20km to my home on fast lane (up from 8 to 11000 rpm) with any problem.
I'll install a voltmeter to keep watching and start from beggining to check sparks and fuel intake from tank.
Back 20km to my home on fast lane (up from 8 to 11000 rpm) with any problem.
I'll install a voltmeter to keep watching and start from beggining to check sparks and fuel intake from tank.
DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Well. I checked electrode spark and any of them was in same range but only spark placed in cylinder #2 was out of range (0,70 - 0,75).
Now each one is fitted to ( 0,65 - 0,65 ) however distance between electrode must set around 0,6 - 0,7 mm.
Waiting for evening sunset to ride.
Now each one is fitted to ( 0,65 - 0,65 ) however distance between electrode must set around 0,6 - 0,7 mm.
Waiting for evening sunset to ride.
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It may have already been posted but how old are the plugs?
As the wear, the gap gets wider. Another member recently had similar issues and found ONE bad spark plug which fixed the problem..
If they were replaced recently, you may replace them anyway(cheap enough) should one have a hairline crack in the porcelain, etc
I'd strongly suggest using dielectric grease on the rubber part of each cap(where it meets the valve cover). It makes it MUCH easier to install the cap AND you can literally hear the cap "snap" onto the plug.
Lastly, did you check your spark plug caps to wire connections? Final Impact has many posts on it. Basically, if their not tight, you'll get arcing inside the cap/wire and less spark at the plug...
As the wear, the gap gets wider. Another member recently had similar issues and found ONE bad spark plug which fixed the problem..
If they were replaced recently, you may replace them anyway(cheap enough) should one have a hairline crack in the porcelain, etc
I'd strongly suggest using dielectric grease on the rubber part of each cap(where it meets the valve cover). It makes it MUCH easier to install the cap AND you can literally hear the cap "snap" onto the plug.
Lastly, did you check your spark plug caps to wire connections? Final Impact has many posts on it. Basically, if their not tight, you'll get arcing inside the cap/wire and less spark at the plug...
DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Hi mr TownSends.
Your advises made me optimist. I think caps are ok while they were checked recently when i changed both coils ( i keep old caps to fix with new )
I expect bike will fall down throttle again and then i will buy new sparks.
By any lane I'm decided to beat this asap.
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Your advises made me optimist. I think caps are ok while they were checked recently when i changed both coils ( i keep old caps to fix with new )
I expect bike will fall down throttle again and then i will buy new sparks.
By any lane I'm decided to beat this asap.
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DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
In addition i might say that i felt smelly fuel in first engine moments waiting for motor take hotter
DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Good Night, sorry for delay but needed more than a look at the picture to react. Now I see , vacuum rubber is lost !!
If my Topic has develop that for you is great , anyway only a very aware hand could find it !
---------------------------------
To continue my Chapter Two from this Dumber Suite, my spark check didn´t fix problem , so this morning my bike fall again at Highway.
I started to disassembly fuel pump but i couldn´t pulled out completely, only to separate main plastic and discover fuel filter inside pump.
Then I found this
View attachment 65799
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DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Tonight I check for 30km and no throttle trouble or loss engine, never down from 8 to 12 rpm range.
Although Good augury my exhaust tube has fancy melted a little part of under seat plastic, I need to place down this tube a few to avoid new damages.
Nobody is working in my country until next Wednesday, need to wait to buy another ( Jesus, I can´t stand it )
Although Good augury my exhaust tube has fancy melted a little part of under seat plastic, I need to place down this tube a few to avoid new damages.
Nobody is working in my country until next Wednesday, need to wait to buy another ( Jesus, I can´t stand it )
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DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
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Well, both the filter and melting is a first,
Very odd for that filter! With that filter "gone" you going to, if not already, suck up crap and clog the injectors. I know the filter isn't replaceable. Wether you can do something with that or a new pump is likely in your future...
Below:
To help remove the pump, with the pump in the tank, find and push the tab (arrow). That'll allow the fuel level sending unit to slip off the pump. Both will come out together. For re-installation into the tank, it'll go back in as ONE unit(all snapped back together..
Very odd for that filter! With that filter "gone" you going to, if not already, suck up crap and clog the injectors. I know the filter isn't replaceable. Wether you can do something with that or a new pump is likely in your future...
Below:
To help remove the pump, with the pump in the tank, find and push the tab (arrow). That'll allow the fuel level sending unit to slip off the pump. Both will come out together. For re-installation into the tank, it'll go back in as ONE unit(all snapped back together..
DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Yes. Tonight my bike was like a rocket so I equip myself this morning for riding outskirts but as far as 25 km throttle down and 34 error code appeared again.
This fu***** and (feel free to imagine any sort of full love words [emoji24] [emoji28] [emoji24] )
Well.... back again and after a couple of beers disassembled fuel pump again
***** Thank you for this Townsends, this time fuel pump was removed successfully .*******
But look the filter is same dirty again !
Well no more risk. Fuel removed will be drop at gas station disposal and i hope injection system won't be blocked by litter.
I'll shot air compressed to fuel filter and if not satisfied will buy new pump (unused kit) or pump assy (complete new)
Need some advice anyway.
Maybe sort of hell for a biker such like this [emoji23]
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This fu***** and (feel free to imagine any sort of full love words [emoji24] [emoji28] [emoji24] )
Well.... back again and after a couple of beers disassembled fuel pump again
***** Thank you for this Townsends, this time fuel pump was removed successfully .*******
But look the filter is same dirty again !
Well no more risk. Fuel removed will be drop at gas station disposal and i hope injection system won't be blocked by litter.
I'll shot air compressed to fuel filter and if not satisfied will buy new pump (unused kit) or pump assy (complete new)
Need some advice anyway.
Maybe sort of hell for a biker such like this [emoji23]
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DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Checked second time
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Edit : This time seems to be such as cotton........fluff........something like founded in belly button (lol)
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Edit : This time seems to be such as cotton........fluff........something like founded in belly button (lol)
Last edited:
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Please find a good sized SUPER CLEAN PAN and dump your fuel in there. Look for debris which will settle on the bottom.
Your can use some of the clean fuel in there to flush it out again. Keep doing that until NO crap comes out..
If you have an air compressor, that'll help blow the debris out as well.. Once its spotless, as well as the pump that part should be good to go...
Its not unusual to accumulate small particles of junk in there. I replaced my tank several times and found like a sandy substance on the bottom. From where, dunno but it was there..
A customers, carbed bike I worked on about 3 weeks had so much crap in the tank. It took at least 4 flushes before it was clean. And the inside of the tank was actually spotless/no rust either. Once that was cleaned, the carbs cleaned and a couple of bowl gaskets (and a sync), it was running like a top...
Your can use some of the clean fuel in there to flush it out again. Keep doing that until NO crap comes out..
If you have an air compressor, that'll help blow the debris out as well.. Once its spotless, as well as the pump that part should be good to go...
Its not unusual to accumulate small particles of junk in there. I replaced my tank several times and found like a sandy substance on the bottom. From where, dunno but it was there..
A customers, carbed bike I worked on about 3 weeks had so much crap in the tank. It took at least 4 flushes before it was clean. And the inside of the tank was actually spotless/no rust either. Once that was cleaned, the carbs cleaned and a couple of bowl gaskets (and a sync), it was running like a top...
Look on fleebay, there are generic pumps/filters. Dirt and debris aside, the pump wont draw properly with holes in the pickup (sock) and it may have caused the engine to run lean (makes the exhaust burn very hot) and melt the plastic.
Yes, get the tank clean, a new sock without holes it, but it also might be a good time to remove the fuel injectors and backflush them to get any debris out.
I say this because one partially plugged injector could lead to significant engine damage if if fails to deliver the proper fuel ratio to a cylinder(s).
We can guide you though this...
Yes, get the tank clean, a new sock without holes it, but it also might be a good time to remove the fuel injectors and backflush them to get any debris out.
I say this because one partially plugged injector could lead to significant engine damage if if fails to deliver the proper fuel ratio to a cylinder(s).
We can guide you though this...
DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Aarrggh.
No way .
Second time that I disassembled fuel pump (i tried to clean as much as i could), bike didn't engine on. Then I repeated process and realised in a little point when both parts of pumpgrt fixed. This time there isn't fuel loss by main tube and bike starts normal
Tested and as usual, more over ten thousand and bike falls again.
Need to figure out injectors cleaning cost.....extract everything again furthermore oil, coolant. ....
But would like to be sure about fuel pump pressure. ..
When running is always same pressure so, if throttle loss always come at high rpm i can forget about any trouble with pump, don't you agree?
Thks very much for been so patient. Nobody else is helping.
No way .
Second time that I disassembled fuel pump (i tried to clean as much as i could), bike didn't engine on. Then I repeated process and realised in a little point when both parts of pumpgrt fixed. This time there isn't fuel loss by main tube and bike starts normal
Tested and as usual, more over ten thousand and bike falls again.
Need to figure out injectors cleaning cost.....extract everything again furthermore oil, coolant. ....
But would like to be sure about fuel pump pressure. ..
When running is always same pressure so, if throttle loss always come at high rpm i can forget about any trouble with pump, don't you agree?
Thks very much for been so patient. Nobody else is helping.
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Did you install a new filter/mesh/sock?
It can not have a hole in it or the engine may starve for fuel. Install a new sock/filter....
It can not have a hole in it or the engine may starve for fuel. Install a new sock/filter....
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There's SIX pages of folks trying to help.
I for one, don't have anymore idea's.
Follow FI's suggestions as he's very familiar with the fuel injection on the bike. That is, if its even the problem...
You also have to remember, you have a European bike. Here in the US, we don't have the immobilizer, most don't have the wiring diagram for your bike (here) which doesn't help either...
DruGus
(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Yes, absolutely! !!
I was talking about physical from friends or technical workshop.
Firstly of the list only remind me asking if issue is fixed ( maybe some of them are just claming for a breakfast. ...jaja second in list arr not in my own trust by spend of about more than four hundred euros in official yamaha and the most considered workshop.
In this six paged I founded more help than physical or Spanish forums where my words are dragged as dust....
Pls be Sure about how much i feel glad about to hear from this place and let me apologise for mistake
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I was talking about physical from friends or technical workshop.
Firstly of the list only remind me asking if issue is fixed ( maybe some of them are just claming for a breakfast. ...jaja second in list arr not in my own trust by spend of about more than four hundred euros in official yamaha and the most considered workshop.
In this six paged I founded more help than physical or Spanish forums where my words are dragged as dust....
Pls be Sure about how much i feel glad about to hear from this place and let me apologise for mistake
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