Battery Not Charging....Serious problems

[Motogiro]

Well apparently my New Stator is putting out a steady 4 ohms @ 51*F . I've emailed my supplier, I'm hoping they'll refund me. I'll try another test tomorrow when it warms up back into the 60's so it can be more close to the specs. what a nightmare.

Don't let this get you down! We'll get to the promised land!
Don't worry about ambient temperature being that far off. Just make sure you have your ohm meter in the X 1 range. Do the three measurements each measure 4 ohms? Are you getting a reading from any of the leads to ground?

 

[viser_08]

My meter is a auto ranging metere so it starts out in 1x. If it follows up any higher it displays a K or M. All three legs are putting out a steady 4 ohms. My supplier is willing to take a return it looks like. They've told me to contact their supplier first though to seek potiental tech help lol. But that is the evidence laid out on the table. 4 ohms and it has NO continuity when touching ground.

 

[greg]

try measuring the stator output (in AC) with the engine running

don't worry the bike will run with it unplugged provided the battery is charged

 

[viser_08]

Its 5-6 amps per leg AC voltage at 5K RPM.

 

[viser_08]

PROBLEM SOLVED....I THINK LOL. Seeems all this hard work was for nothing. I found out directly from Electrosport (the manufacture of my stator) our FZ6's are the only produced stator from yamaha where the windings are wound differently from the rest. As he was saying over the phone the FZ's are wound every pole rather than every 2 like traditional stators. So thats why I was getting voltage, and even some minimal AMPs, but not enough to charge the battery. THe supplier (riders discount) thought even though they look and mount the same, the stators for the r6 and fz6 are wound completely different. Why yamaha coudn't use parts that are similar to cut costs? I dont know. End of story is I either have to get my stator re wound, or order an OEM. I wanted to say thankyou for everybodys help on this topic as I've dragged it for the last few weeks here in the tech forum. I will post more info after I get a new OEM stator put in. Thanks again for the help! Especially Motogiro thanks again for all your help and knowledge!

 

[Motogiro]

PROBLEM SOLVED....I THINK LOL. Seeems all this hard work was for nothing. I found out directly from Electrosport (the manufacture of my stator) our FZ6's are the only produced stator from yamaha where the windings are wound differently from the rest. As he was saying over the phone the FZ's are wound every pole rather than every 2 like traditional stators. So thats why I was getting voltage, and even some minimal AMPs, but not enough to charge the battery. THe supplier (riders discount) thought even though they look and mount the same, the stators for the r6 and fz6 are wound completely different. Why yamaha coudn't use parts that are similar to cut costs? I dont know. End of story is I either have to get my stator re wound, or order an OEM. I wanted to say thankyou for everybodys help on this topic as I've dragged it for the last few weeks here in the tech forum. I will post more info after I get a new OEM stator put in. Thanks again for the help! Especially Motogiro thanks again for all your help and knowledge!

Cool! Let us know how it goes!

 

[greg]

As you discovered the R6 stator is different to the FZ6 one, as the R6 uses a different number of magnets. The OEM R6 stator should have slightly different hole positions drilled in so that it won't fit the FZ6 as well.

I made a post on how to rewind your stator last year, and touched on the different configurations as well: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/37991-how-re-build-your-stator.html

 

[Motogiro]

As you discovered the R6 stator is different to the FZ6 one, as the R6 uses a different number of magnets. The OEM R6 stator should have slightly different hole positions drilled in so that it won't fit the FZ6 as well.

I made a post on how to rewind your stator last year, and touched on the different configurations as well: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/37991-how-re-build-your-stator.html

The original attached pictures that were at that link are not present now but I remember you did a significant amount of work on the at project that contributed a great amount of knowledge to the forum. Thank you Greg!

 

[greg]

not really sure what happened to the attached images

 

[Motogiro]

not really sure what happened to the attached images

We had a server crash and I think some attachments were lost.

 

[FinalImpact]

I was trying to figure out how one would easily measure AC AMPs from that but perhaps one of those external clamps was used so the wires COULD be plugged into the OEM harness without jumpers and what not. . .

Hopefully the right part fixes it. But now one has to wonder what was wrong to begin with? As in, what part failed and why?

 

[viser_08]

Greg you are correct for the r6 stator for i think 04 or 06 and newer. the 99 to 04 or 02 use the same bolt pattern, and look identical as the fz's. i had a spare 06 r6 stator and was going to use it until i found out it wasn't the same including bolt pattern.

 

[Norbert]

how does a stator get damaged like this in the first place?

 

[Motogiro]

how does a stator get damaged like this in the first place?

A number of things can damage them. There could be mechanical failure where the windings get shorted of a problem loosing insulation. Loosing insulation could start from overheating which could be from a dead short at the regulator/rectifier or other part of bike before the main fuse. They are otherwise pretty rugged parts.

 

[viser_08]

Well Giro. Got all my parts in. Battery is charging wonderfully now, but I'm still suffering from a lag. After the bike sits for a while and cools back down its fine till about 5 minutes after riding. I get a chuggy idle, and poor acceleration. Im very perplexed on this particualr item. It was a symptom I was facing at the end the last season riding. Any ideas as where to start checking. WHen I was checking into the stator I did test out the Crank sensor and that tested out fine. What to do?

 

[viser_08]

The Idle is exactly like this. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EgrUrt6Fvg]Fz6 idle - YouTube[/ame]

Its even worse when driving because its under load.

 

[Motogiro]

Well Giro. Got all my parts in. Battery is charging wonderfully now, but I'm still suffering from a lag. After the bike sits for a while and cools back down its fine till about 5 minutes after riding. I get a chuggy idle, and poor acceleration. Im very perplexed on this particualr item. It was a symptom I was facing at the end the last season riding. Any ideas as where to start checking. WHen I was checking into the stator I did test out the Crank sensor and that tested out fine. What to do?

The Idle is exactly like this. Fz6 idle - YouTube

Its even worse when driving because its under load.

I forget what they call that but it has to do with back pressure in the exhaust. I used to get that on my tuned FZ6 when it idled. I would cover the exhaust with my hand a little and it would go away. I saw this on a youtube video that talked about tuning and Air to fuel Ratios. I don't think it's any problem but if you're lagging with throttle response you may have other issues. Have you run some Sea Foam through your system and what about throttle body synching?

Glad you got your charging system sorted!

Maybe some other members can chime in with their vastly better knowledge and experience on fueling? :Flash:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Congrates on getting the electrical fixed! Cliff is da Man!

How old is the fuel in thank and was it treated with a stabilizer, especially if its been sitting for over a month. I'm assuming it idled/accelerated fine before the stator failure, correct?

Its its old and un-treated, IMHO, I'd drain every drop I could get out of it and put in fresh fuel and as Cliff mentioned, run some Seafoam or Chervon techtron thru the fuel system. The poor acceleration sympton, sounds like bad fuel. It may take a tank or two. Running the Seafoam on the heavy side won't hurt anything and will help clean your top end as well.

I run Seafoam pretty regularly and my 07 idles rock steady at 1,000 RPM's with No acceleration problems (daily driver as well).

Other possible fixes:

You might try unhooking the battery for 15 minutes and re-set the ECU

Do you have an aftermarket fuel programmer on the bike?

 

[viser_08]

I live in michigan so my bike sites for about 5 to six months out of the year not being used. I fill the tank up completely every fall before I put it away. I'm starting to think its a throttle body sync problem. Bike runs flawlessly when its cold. After five to ten minutes it acts up. I"m thinking the bike runs on preset data before the bike is up to temp, after its up to ttemp it runs on live data from everything. It could also be the throttle bodies warm up too. I started to look into it last night and my idle was off by about 200 RPMs so I adjusted it. I've gotta get a few vacuum gauges this week so i can check the bodies. I'm assuming that'd be the problem. Lets hope I guess. Its like a studder when you do rapid acceleration. Almost like a miss, but electrically it all checks out, so its either a fuel delivery probem or air intake problem. I also had a code 46 code this spring before all my problems came at once. Thats also why I'm thinking its a throttle body problem. I've never had my bike serviced or anything adjusted at the shop. I've always done all the maintaince. From the service manual it suggests getting that tuned every so often. We'll see this week when I can check each body.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I live in michigan so my bike sites for about 5 to six months out of the year not being used. I fill the tank up completely every fall before I put it away. I'm starting to think its a throttle body sync problem. Bike runs flawlessly when its cold. After five to ten minutes it acts up. I"m thinking the bike runs on preset data before the bike is up to temp, after its up to ttemp it runs on live data from everything. It could also be the throttle bodies warm up too. I started to look into it last night and my idle was off by about 200 RPMs so I adjusted it. I've gotta get a few vacuum gauges this week so i can check the bodies. I'm assuming that'd be the problem. Lets hope I guess. Its like a studder when you do rapid acceleration. Almost like a miss, but electrically it all checks out, so its either a fuel delivery probem or air intake problem. I also had a code 46 code this spring before all my problems came at once. Thats also why I'm thinking its a throttle body problem. I've never had my bike serviced or anything adjusted at the shop. I've always done all the maintaince. From the service manual it suggests getting that tuned every so often. We'll see this week when I can check each body.

The ECU knows the engine is cold and enrichens the mixture and raises the idle some.

A throttle sync would never hurt, I would suggest besides checking it at idle, rev it to 3-4 K RPM's and check if any cylinders are pulling harder than the other. It doesn't take much but adjust accordingly and you'll find its still close (if not closer at idle) and it helps with the vib's.. IMHO, I don't think the throttle sync is your problem but do agree its fuel related..

You didn't respond about the fuel, is it old and untreated? If its old and stale, you will never get it to run right on what's in the tank.. IMHO, dump it, new fuel and Seafoam it..

For S & G's, check the TPS, there's a section at the top of the tech section on how to do it....