Fz6 S2 ABS - stator alternator, R/R or battery

[Bogdanphb]

If you're geeting and erratic, or not getting a steady electrical output, your spark plug's current may not be consistently strong enough to spark / ignite.
The only other guess I can offer is if your carbs / throttle bodies need synced.

How do you sync that Bryan?
Thank you for suggestion!

 

[bryancraftyhands]

You would need a set of vacuum gauges. There are videos on how to do it on YouTube. I don't remember if any are FZ specific, but the process is the same for any multi carb / TB engine.
I wouldn't worry about that much unless you are sure you got your electrical fixed first. It is a general maintenance item suggested to do at intervals, but usually isn't off unless they have been worked on.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Last 2 tests were above 80, the first one 66, I may have not rev it to exact same rpm. And I said it’s 0.3 because when I touched the pos/neg ends of multimeter it shown 0.6, then I just subtracted that from 0.9.

I note that you didn’t perform a continuity test between the individual white wires and ground. Can you do that before I give my thoughts?

 

[Bogdanphb]

I note that you didn’t perform a continuity test between the individual white wires and ground. Can you do that before I give my thoughts?

Could you please tell me how to perform the continuity test ? I’ll do it tomorrow morning, I’m in work at the moment.

Thank you!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Could you please tell me how to perform the continuity test ? I’ll do it tomorrow morning, I’m in work at the moment.

Thank you!

Check for continuity between each individual white stator wire and a ground point on the bike (the engine case is a good location or any bolt head that connects the engine to the frame - or the battery negative terminal). If you find a wire with with continuity (the meter beeps) you have a burned coil on that winding. I would be most suspect of the lead that showed 66 volts.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Check for continuity between each individual white stator wire and a ground point on the bike (the engine case is a good location or any bolt head that connects the engine to the frame - or the battery negative terminal). If you find a wire with with continuity (the meter beeps) you have a burned coil on that winding. I would be most suspect of the lead that showed 66 volts.

I've done it

I feel a little clumsy as it’s the first time I got my head around a multimeter and how to measure electrical circuits, I hope I did it correctly.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You did it correctly. There is no "smoking gun" here, but the stator appears to be damaged but not failed. The leg that only produces 66VAC is the cause for the eratic charge output. While the stator is able to produce enough current at high rpm (+5k), it is not contributing or actually discharging the battery at low rpm. A stator failure on the FZ6 is unusual - and for this reason I wouldn't simply remove the unit and replace it. I think further investigation is warranted. I would remove the stator cover and inspect the unit for signs of burning, or perhaps damage. Can you post some photos of the stator that we can review?

My other thought - the only item NOT inspected was the voltage regulation side of the r/r. There is no test for that, but they usually fail completely. If the visual inspection checks out OK on the stator I might put more focus on the r/r. Do you happen to know anyone with an FZ6 that would allow you to swap the r/r for a few minutes?

 

[Motogiro]

Additionally from past behavior because there is such fluctuation in voltage I would suspect the regulator is clamping intermittently and possibly below the proper voltage. If it's been doing this hard at lower voltage then the current in stator windings may have been going higher than normal creating excessive heat. The excessive heat make have burned insulator material and shorted winding to the point there is lower output from the stator.

I had this happen on my SV1000s. Had to replace both stator and R/R
Good job on testing! Thank you members for the great and knowledgeable help!

 

[Bogdanphb]

You did it correctly. There is no "smoking gun" here, but the stator appears to be damaged but not failed. The leg that only produces 66VAC is the cause for the eratic charge output. While the stator is able to produce enough current at high rpm (+5k), it is not contributing or actually discharging the battery at low rpm. A stator failure on the FZ6 is unusual - and for this reason I wouldn't simply remove the unit and replace it. I think further investigation is warranted. I would remove the stator cover and inspect the unit for signs of burning, or perhaps damage. Can you post some photos of the stator that we can review?

My other thought - the only item NOT inspected was the voltage regulation side of the r/r. There is no test for that, but they usually fail completely. If the visual inspection checks out OK on the stator I might put more focus on the r/r. Do you happen to know anyone with an FZ6 that would allow you to swap the r/r for a few minutes?

Here is the stator, gasket and cover condition.

Unfortunately I don’t know anyone else with an FZ6.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Additionally from past behavior because there is such fluctuation in voltage I would suspect the regulator is clamping intermittently and possibly below the proper voltage. If it's been doing this hard at lower voltage then the current in stator windings may have been going higher than normal creating excessive heat. The excessive heat make have burned insulator material and shorted winding to the point there is lower output from the stator.

I had this happen on my SV1000s. Had to replace both stator and R/R
Good job on testing! Thank you members for the great and knowledgeable help!

Thank you for sharing your experience with me. I don’t know how expensive these parts should be. I found these offers.

https://carlightbulb.com/products/s...MtCsgQ54mIkZ8yslEiQETu5Xx5y85C7UaApUqEALw_wcB — this one it can be too good to be true.

Tourmax Regulator Rectifier Yamaha 5VX-81960-00

Shop Tourmax Regulator Rectifier Yamaha 5VX-81960-00 at Motorcycle Products Ltd. 68mm between bolt hole centres. 5 pins. SH719AA. Made in Japan to OEM specification. Replacement part for Yamaha OEM 5VX-81960-00. Regulator/Rectifier Fitting InstructionsWhen on test, 12 Volt batteries should show...

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Yamaha FZ6 5VX-81410-00-00 | Stator | Moto-Electrical

RM01553 | Replacement stator coil for Yamaha FZ6 2004-09 | Replaces 5VX-81410-00-00 | Quality replacement parts from Moto-Electrical | We'll get you going!

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I’d consider the more expensive one although it’s a bitter pill to swallow.

If it’s the case to change them, what would you advise ?

Thank you!

 

[Gary in NJ]

The stator looks good - there doesn't appear to be any burnt coils. Check closely for any broken wires. Is that a groove on the outside of the rotor? Does it look like something is making contact with the rotor?

I hate when problems doesnt present as obvious - but that is the situation you are in. After it is all cleaned and reassembled, run through all of the tests again to see if any of the conditions changes (sometimes taking things apart and putting them back together helps). If the results are the same (i.e two 85 volts legs and one 66 volt leg, and not getting to 14 volts at the battery terminals) - then something has to change. I would start with a replacement r/r. First because it's the least expensive item; secondly it's easy to get to; and thirdly it is the only item that hasn't been fully diagnosed (because it can't be). If that doesn't resolve the issue, you'll have to replace the stator. I would use an OEM stator - it's a known quality. Alternatively you could contact Rick's Motorsports in the USA. They don't have an FZ6 stator that they stock (because they don't fail) but Rick is able to do custom winds. It's high quality workmanship, but in the end it may not save you any money due to shipping.

 

[Bogdanphb]

The stator looks good - there doesn't appear to be any burnt coils. Check closely for any broken wires. Is that a groove on the outside of the rotor? Does it look like something is making contact with the rotor?

I hate when problems doesnt present as obvious - but that is the situation you are in. After it is all cleaned and reassembled, run through all of the tests again to see if any of the conditions changes (sometimes taking things apart and putting them back together helps). If the results are the same (i.e 2 85 volts legs and one 66 volt leg, and not achieving greater than 14 volts at the battery terminals) - then something has to change. I would start with a replacement r/r. First because it's the least expensive item; secondly it's easy to get to; and thirdly it is the only item that hasn't been fully diagnosed (because it can't be). If that doesn't resolve the issue, you'll have to replace the stator. I would use an OEM stator - it's a known quality. Alternatively you could contact Rick's Motorsports in the USA. They don't have an FZ6 stator that they stock (because they don't fail) but Rick is able to do custom winds. It's high quality workmanship, but in the end it may not save you any money due to shipping.

Thank you, Gary! I’ll reassemble it and see how it is.

Can I clean the stator, rotor, gasket, cover with that spray? Would it be affected if it’ll be dry with no more engine oil before I start the bike?

 

[Gary in NJ]

You can use that spray to clean everything, and clean the housing of the oil.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Hi guys,

I changed the rectifier, it seems she’s more stable now, I hope I won’t find myself in the situation with a flat battery. I’ll keep an eye on her.

However, there’s something I don’t understand about the fuel tank.
The fz6 s2 should have a tank capacity of 19 litres, is that right ?
Well mine has a capacity from empty, flashing last line, to full of 10-12 litres. This time it was 12L last time it was close to 11L. How can that even be possible?

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Glad to hear about the stability.
I know from the time the fuel gauge starts blinking there is significant fuel left. It's not actually empty at that point. It's a warning to get to a fuel station. I don't know how much is actually supposed to be left though.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Measuring empty via the fuel indicator is a lot like playing horse shoes...close enough.

Are you seeing over 14VDC @ 5k rpm?

 

[Bogdanphb]

Measuring empty via the fuel indicator is a lot like playing horse shoes...close enough.

Are you seeing over 14VDC @ 5k rpm?

Hahah, makes sense, I’ll get a fuel canister with me one day and I’ll ride till there’s no fuel left.
It gets to 14VDC if I hold it @ 5k for 5-10sec.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

If you are going to get a can, might as well get a pump. Instead of riding until empty, pump until empty, measure, add back in.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

On my S2, with one bar showing, I can get about 3 gallons filled back in..
So, the gauge isn't terribly accurate.

I do fill back up then just to keep the pump in fuel/cool.

.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Thank you everyone for being so helpful and for the suggestions you gave me. The bike is good now, runs smoothly.