100k mile parts summary

[VEGASRIDER]

Many of you have inquired about what has and not been replaced after logging 100k miles so I have created a list along with the reasons, except for the obvious such as the fluids, chain, bulbs, etc.

Still original OEM from zero miles.

1. Front brake pads and rotors
2. Hoses
3. Oil and fuel pump
4. Throttle cable
5. Operator and passenger foot pegs
6. Instrument cluster
7. Ignition switch and key
8. Front signals
9. Front brake cable
10. Clutch
11. Radiator
12. Swing Arm
13. Frame & Fairings
14. Handlebars
15. Turn and hazard, bright and horn switches
16. TPS
17. Rear brake & shifter controls
18. Both tires, I mean the rims
19. Side and Center stand


Replaced due to repair, failure or upgrade

1. Brake lines, upgrade
2. Seat, upgrade
3. Exhaust, upgrade
4. Rear Turn Signals, upgrade
5. Windscreen, upgrade
6. Front dampers, upgrade
7. Horn, upgrade
8. Clutch & Front Brake Levers, upgrade

10. Rear brake pads and rotors, worn
11. Engine cut off switch, fail
12. Fork seal, fail
13. Rectifier fail
14. Cam Chain Tensioner, fail
15. Cam Chain, worn
16. Guides, worn
17. Fuel Tank, dent
18. Rear damper, fail-leak
19. Valve Stems, fail-leak
20. Clutch cable, replaced for no reason
21. Steering head bearing, fail

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Drive chain/ sprockets?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Yes, I have replaced the drive chain and rear sprockets a number of times, however the front sprocket less than the rear.

I should add the steering head bearings too.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, I have replaced the drive chain and rear sprockets a number of times, however the front sprocket less than the rear.

I should add the steering head bearings too.

20-25,000 miles on the chain or so or do you re-call?

OEM head bearings or All Balls?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

I got about 30k on my OEM chain and rear sprocket, then less using after market chain, and I was an idiot using an aluminum sprocket than steel. I will never go back to aluminum.

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes, I have replaced the drive chain and rear sprockets a number of times, however the front sprocket less than the rear.

I should add the steering head bearings too.

But overall - engine is 95% intact other than timing components and perhaps Sparkies (X4)....
->> Wait, are you saying: 19. Valve Stems, fail-leak << Is that why they took the head off?

Now lets discuss OCI's and Brand (OIL)!!! haha! :spank::spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

And lastly, (out of curiosity), what mileage roughly was valve adjustments actually needed? (bike run hard, normal-IE to red line every outing, 6-8K RPM, etc)?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

But overall - engine is 95% intact other than timing components and perhaps Sparkies (X4)....
->> Wait, are you saying: 19. Valve Stems, fail-leak << Is that why they took the head off?

Now lets discuss OCI's and Brand (OIL)!!! haha! :spank::spank:

I'm referring to the valve stems for the rims of the tires. I guess the shop who swapped out my tires for the first couple of rounds never replaced them so the rubber just cracked.

As far as the plugs, yes OEM plugs lasted 20k miles, then replaced with Iridium and lasted me 50k. Both sets did not fail, but just replaced. I believe I'm on my 3rd or 4th set of plugs.

And lastly, (out of curiosity), what mileage roughly was valve adjustments actually needed? (bike run hard, normal-IE to red line every outing, 6-8K RPM, etc)?

Valve adjustment were done around 70k miles, only because the shop had the heads removed to repair the Cam Chain Guides, etc. So it was a good time. I'd be lying if they were all within specs, but surprisingly many were but some had to be adjusted. I have the measurements posted somewhere on this forum.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Valve adjustment were done around 70k miles, only because the shop had the heads removed to repair the Cam Chain Guides, etc. So it was a good time. I'd be lying if they were all within specs, but surprisingly many were but some had to be adjusted. I have the measurements posted somewhere on this forum.

Wow, 70K W/O an adjustment.

I gather you ride fairly conservatively?

 

[FinalImpact]

And lastly, (out of curiosity), what mileage roughly was valve adjustments actually needed? (bike run hard, normal-IE to red line every outing, 6-8K RPM, etc)?

For the greater audience, IMO its not fair question. I say that as its going vary from bike to bike. The manufactures "suggested interval" is a good starting point.

Mine needed it at 5,000 miles (I could hear it)... I let it tick for 20,000 and couldn't take it any more. I found ALL Exhaust valves out of spec! Its like a colonoscopy; no one wants it before before 50, butt sometimes it's necessary! Blah

Based upon a run through the hills I'm pretty sure he runs up there on the "as needed basis" - but he can answer that. :thumbup:

Kenny, Copy that - wrong stem!
Ya, that sucks! Had a stem blow off at 80mph in a cage and rapid deflation occurred. Not good.

 

[Botch]

Kenny, if you still have the original front brake pads, but have replaced the rears, I'm gonna send you a brand-new black leather Harley-Davidson jacket! Blah

 

[VEGASRIDER]

20-25,000 miles on the chain or so or do you re-call?

OEM head bearings or All Balls?

Replaced with the tapered All Balls, it was a very early fail, at 12k miles. Hasn't been a problem since, and it has not been repacked.

Wow, 70K W/O an adjustment.

I gather you ride fairly conservatively?

My cruising RPM around the surface street is between 5-8000 rpm, spirited rides it will be between 8-12,000 rpms. I think my bike has seen more spirited rides than most FZ6's.

Kenny, if you still have the original front brake pads, but have replaced the rears, I'm gonna send you a brand-new black leather Harley-Davidson jacket! Blah

I have no explanation on why the front brake pads has lasted so long. Except the fact that I am in the habit of using both brakes when it comes to stopping. I know many are in the habit of using only the front. But still, I practice my emergency braking often and apply maximum braking for the front and still no wear.

I also have done a lot of Motogymkhana, and other slow ride competitions, and cone weaving courses which require a lot of clutch and throttle, but I'm still on my original clutch plates and throttle cable.

 

[payneib]

I'm referring to the valve stems for the rims of the tires. I guess the shop who swapped out my tires for the first couple of rounds never replaced them so the rubber just cracked.

.

Had me going for a minute there! The cam chain is a reasonable replacement to expect, but I was panicking when you said valves! Lol

Yeah, I'd put the tyre valves down as a wear item anyway, I had to replace one once as the valve cap got stuck on. It's not the end of the world.

What are your clutch friction plates like? I had to replace mine at 18000, but the new ones (only my miles on them) seem to be lasting much longer.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For the greater audience, IMO its not fair question. I say that as its going vary from bike to bike. The manufactures "suggested interval" is a good starting point.

Mine needed it at 5,000 miles (I could hear it)... I let it tick for 20,000 and couldn't take it any more. I found ALL Exhaust valves out of spec!

If they were clacking since almost new, (probably set at the outer limits from the factory), they needed adjustment anyway(regardless of how the engine was run), agreed...

Of course they usually TIGHTEN UP OVER TIME, not LOOSEN.

However, mine are quiet and most folks (from what I've read here) have posted at the first scheduled check interval, they didn't need adjustment.

I was curious as to if running at the RPM limits, OFTEN, increased the need for checks / adjustments.

*I don't re-call seeing a thread for folks posting mileage/riding style vs checks/needing adjustment on the valves. Perhaps one? (I have no idea how to post a voting thread, especially with those options)..

 

[Pplater]

I noticed u changed front damper and rear damper. Are u referring to the rear shocks and front fork springs? I thought there weren't any dampers on the fazer, let alone two?

 

[YZ125]

Can you share with the rest of us the following information?

1) What engine oil was used? What oil filter was used? What OCI was followed?

2) What chain lubricant did you use? What intervals was the chain lubricated?

Thanks!

 

[FZSexy]

what was the split highway / city riding, vegasrider? cruising vs stop 'n go riding? when riding on an average day do you shutdown and start up the bike multiple times?

 

[FIZZER6]

I noticed u changed front damper and rear damper. Are u referring to the rear shocks and front fork springs? I thought there weren't any dampers on the fazer, let alone two?

The rear shock is a gas damper inside a coil spring. The front end is oil filled dampers with fork springs.



VEGASRIDER: At what mileage did you have trouble with the cam tensioner? What were the symptoms?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Can you share with the rest of us the following information?

1) What engine oil was used? What oil filter was used? What OCI was followed?

2) What chain lubricant did you use? What intervals was the chain lubricated?

Thanks!

I've been running this oil exclusively since my first oil change, with a Purolator One Filter that you can pick up at just about any auto parts shop. Interval average is about 4k miles.

Chain lubricant changes frequently from ordinary chain lube to chain wax,

what was the split highway / city riding, vegasrider? cruising vs stop 'n go riding? when riding on an average day do you shutdown and start up the bike multiple times?

Hard to answer that question since I don't keep track. But I have taken several 4-5000 motorcycle trips, so I have done my fair share of touring. Same for the shutdown, but I'm guessing at times it could have been 20-30 times a day since my bike is my only ride. But it can be a few as just two. But as I mentioned, I had to replace my shut off switch, which is the way I turn my bike off.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

VEGASRIDER: At what mileage did you have trouble with the cam tensioner? What were the symptoms?

Around 70k miles when the engine seized, the symptoms was a constant ticking noise, which started much earlier than 70k miles that I IGNORED! After that, it wasn't just a Cam Chain Tensioner, but everything that is associated with the CT, like the chain itself, guides, etc which were worn and had to be replaced, including the sensor which grinded away against my engine which caused my engine to seize. It was by far the worse repair and most costly, about $800 at the dealership, but it also included my valve check/adjustment.