10 year old bike maintenance checklist

[MIJ_FZ6]

My new to me 09 FZ6 has ~4K Miles on her and is near mint. Now that it is in my possession I am going over basic matienence and wanted to see if I am missing anything. So far I have:

- Oil and Filter change - Rotella T6 and K&N Filter - Plan on using OEM filter next time
- Coolant Change - Flushed with distilled water before changing
- New Battery
- Replaced Brake Fluid (front and rear) - Castrol Dot4
- Replaced front brake pads - EBC HH
- Cleaned/Lubed chain - DuPont Chain Saver
- Lubed clutch lever/cable
- Replaced Front/Rear tires - Bridgestone BT016

Plans for the future:

- Install FZ07 clutch slave lever (should be receiving it today)
- Install Battery Tender Quick Disconnect
- Replace Air Filter with OEM - Part# 5VX-14451-00-00
- Spark plugs possibly next spring
- Replace front brake line with SS line
- Muffler mid pipe delete + Slip on exhaust. Probably will go with the Dalvik kit for $400
- Headlight bulb upgrade, want to LED

Any other suggestions? I have looked over the maintenance schedule in the manual however I'd like to get some input from riders as well. Thanks!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Per Yamaha the brake caliper seals should be replaced every TWO YEARS...

As yours is low mileage, I would check to make sure the seals aren't hardened up and NOT retracting.

A simple way is to put the bike on the CC, jack up the header slightly, then spin the front wheel by hand.

It should rotate at least once by itself. A video of mine two years (or so after new seals): https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/40215609850/in/dateposted/


I would also re-grease the slider on the rear brake caliper when that's off (that grease is 9 years old)


I would also change the fork oil. Yes it's been sitting, but it's a cheap maintenance procedure and should help your fork seals last..

You might want to consider the BD43 mod which makes your right side LOW BEAM light come on with the left side (so your not a "one eyed bandit")

Nice find BTW!

 

[MIJ_FZ6]

Per Yamaha the brake caliper seals should be replaced every TWO YEARS...

As yours is low mileage, I would check to make sure the seals aren't hardened up and NOT retracting.

A simple way is to put the bike on the CC, jack up the header slightly, then spin the front wheel by hand.

It should rotate at least once by itself. A video of mine two years (or so after new seals): https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/40215609850/in/dateposted/


I would also re-grease the slider on the rear brake caliper when that's off (that grease is 9 years old)


I would also change the fork oil. Yes it's been sitting, but it's a cheap maintenance procedure and should help your fork seals last..

You might want to consider the BD43 mod which makes your right side LOW BEAM light come on with the left side (so your not a "one eyed bandit")

Nice find BTW!

Thanks! It was a great score, bought it from the original owner.

For the caliper seals, I'll add that to the list regardless if they are "healthy" or not. I'll do more research on the topic but if they have failed I'm looking for a front wheel that will not spin freely (like how yours was able to do 7+ spins).

Fork oil added to the list too

As far as the headlight mod, couldn't I just flick on both headlights? Or with this mod are both the headlights the same brightness?

 

[Ohendo]

Sure, you could flick on both headlights (the high beam will obviously be brighter than the left side, low beam only side). That would be great in daylight, but at night - your high beams might blind someone.

The high beam headlight is an H4 (dual filament), while the low beam is a simple H7 single filament. But stock setup only uses the high beam on the H4- There is no power wire to the low beam.
The BD43 mod activates the low beam on the H4, but more importantly, switches the low beam filament OFF when high beams are selected (Don't want to run both filaments at the same time).

Alternative: You may just want to hold off until you switch to LED bulbs. The LED H7 has a built in cutoff so when high beam is active, it turns off the low beam. You'd just have to run a jumper from your H7 (+) to the low beam (+) on the H4 and you're set. This is my current setup, bought the LED's from Amazon (or eBay...I forget exactly.)

 

[MIJ_FZ6]

Per Yamaha the brake caliper seals should be replaced every TWO YEARS...

As yours is low mileage, I would check to make sure the seals aren't hardened up and NOT retracting.

A simple way is to put the bike on the CC, jack up the header slightly, then spin the front wheel by hand.

It should rotate at least once by itself. A video of mine two years (or so after new seals): https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/40215609850/in/dateposted/

Did this test over the weekend. The new pads on the caliper have ~150 miles on them if that makes a difference, they may bite the rotor a bit more than higher mileage pads.

I only got 1 spin out of a medium strength turn and a 1 and half turn with a bit of elbow grease turn. Certainly not like your 7 spins. What are your thoughts on this? Extremely urgent? Put it on the list for winter maintenance?

To replace them seems fairly straight forward. Just the seals alone for the front seems to run about $130 for both calipers. Part = 3MA-25803-10-00 - I would re-use the piston since they have such low miles one them. Anything else I should replace while im down there?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can wait with that many spin's.... Your fine..

It's when your down to say a half spin at full force, it's time.

*If you go for a ride, stop with just your REAR BRAKE, and touch (carefully) the FRONT rotors and their hot(should NOT be), it's time.

Just as a side note, I'll blow brake dust out of the calipers maybe once every two weeks (no disassembly) and don't ride in the rain (intentionally).
The brake dust, with water tends to gum the pistons up over time and more drag... You'd be surprised how much dust comes out and I'm easy on the brakes...

 

[MIJ_FZ6]

Awesome, great suggestion on testing as well! Thanks :rockon: