A couple of rear brake questions:

[cook.675]

I took the rear brake caliper off today to look at the pads and clean things out.

First question is that one pad was significantly more worn than the other; maybe 1-2 quarters thickness worth. I can’t remember the order of the pads, but will the pad resting on the piston wear quicker than the other, or does this indicate a problem?

When I cleaned the front brakes I put copper grease directly on the back of the pad but the rear pads have shims; should I grease the back of the shims?

I measured the rear rotor thickness and it was .183”. The service manual says .18” max and replace, does anyone know the thickness of new stock rotors? I dont know how worn these guys are exactly.

Thanks!


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

The rear brake caliper "floats" back and forth and SHOULD center itself on the rotor.

The two main mounting bolts, (long, threads right under the head) and the rubber boots should be cleaned of old grease and re-greased. Load the boots with grease. You'll notice those bolts have some "flat sides"- That's to hold grease...

Your description of one side more worn than the other indicates the caliper is NOT centering itself and needs cleaning and new BRAKE SPECIFIC grease.

The rear pads only go on ONE WAY. And yes, they should wear evenly...

Grease on the back of the pads is not necessary but if doing so, just a very little bit. This is just to prevent squealing..

 

[cook.675]

Your description of one side more worn than the other indicates the caliper is NOT centering itself and needs cleaning and new BRAKE SPECIFIC grease.

I greased the bolts when I put them back in

I cleaned the caliper out pretty well using brake cleaner. I hit the piston and the spring; as well as the shims on the pads

Where do you apply grease to the caliper itself?


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I greased the bolts when I put them back in

I cleaned the caliper out pretty well using brake cleaner. I hit the piston and the spring; as well as the shims on the pads

Where do you apply grease to the caliper itself?

I hope your using BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE as regular grease can melt with disastrous consequences.

Grease INSIDE the rubber bellows, and IF squealing, just a touch on the BACK of the pads where they touch the caliper.
If no squealing, I'd leave them dry( just attracts dirt).

With the pads out, the caliper should be able to move back and forth (center itself) easily..

 

[cook.675]

Gotcha, thanks alot for the tips!

Im using copper grease I got from the auto store


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[swedespeed]

Gotcha, thanks alot for the tips!

Im using copper grease I got from the auto store


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Not really the best choice, I would use Permatex 85188 instead.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is "copper grease" made specifically for brakes?

 

[swedespeed]

Is "copper grease" made specifically for brakes?

no it's not...not sure if you were asking me though

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

no it's not...not sure if you were asking me though

No I was asking the OP.

I specifically stated several times to use BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE (as you did also).

If the grease he used is NOT SPECIFICALLY brake specific, we both know he's a big gambler. Regular grease thrown onto a rotor WILL render his brakes useless..

 

[cook.675]

So I ended up throwing new rear pads in; and cleaned everything again and used the permatex stuff on the slider pin and bolt

I thought cooper grease was fine since thats what i used on my front pads to get them to stop squeaking?




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[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I ended up throwing new rear pads in; and cleaned everything again and used the permatex stuff on the slider pin and bolt

I thought cooper grease was fine since thats what i used on my front pads to get them to stop squeaking?

Carefully wipe that copper off and use brake cleaner to get them spotless. Keep the "working part" UP so you don't wash that grease into the pad itself...

*When noted, in LARGE PRINT, to use BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE, it's for a reason...