Possible Bad Coil Pack??

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed!
My dad might have one. . . where is that POS timing light??? DAMN I hated that thing! It had a CHROME BODY and a BAD GROUND! The result was mush pain and suffering! Although the games dad and I played he likely cut the ground just to watch me jump and smash my head into the hood! Funny I never thought about why the ground would break internal to the GUN UNLESS IT WAS SABOTAGE!!!!! :spank: Questions have been RAISED! Sadly i can't F with him as ye ol Pace maker could make multiple UNWANTED adjustments! Pay back is difficult!

LOL!!

My orignal Sears timing light died, literally decades ago, my neighbor gave me his old, chromed plastic one but it still works...

 

[Motogiro]

Agreed!
My dad might have one. . . where is that POS timing light??? DAMN I hated that thing! It had a CHROME BODY and a BAD GROUND! The result was mush pain and suffering! Although the games dad and I played he likely cut the ground just to watch me jump and smash my head into the hood! Funny I never thought about why the ground would break internal to the GUN UNLESS IT WAS SABOTAGE!!!!! :spank: Questions have been RAISED! Sadly i can't F with him as ye ol Pace maker could make multiple UNWANTED adjustments! Pay back is difficult!

LOL! I used to charge up capacitors from distributors and toss them to other wrenchers. LOL! Got my butt chased a lot! :spank::spank:

 

[UHcougarJohn]

Update:

Found two things.

1. Air leak, one of the rubber leads to test throttle body sync was punctured. We undid the tie strap pulled it forward a little and reconected it.

2. The Air Temp Sensor is testing -1 ohm out of spec. Added a resistor and ran the bike and it ran better but it seems that the plugs are fouled again. Can get it to start and run at higher revs but won't stay running at idle.

Does anyone know how to test the air preasure sensor? The shop manul really does not give a good explanation.

Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

Update:

Found two things.

1. Air leak, one of the rubber leads to test throttle body sync was punctured. We undid the tie strap pulled it forward a little and reconected it.

2. The Air Temp Sensor is testing -1 ohm out of spec. Added a resistor and ran the bike and it ran better but it seems that the plugs are fouled again. Can get it to start and run at higher revs but won't stay running at idle.

Does anyone know how to test the air pressure sensor? The shop manul really does not give a good explanation.

Thanks

There is nothing specific on it as they don't think we can muster the setup to test it. Its range of operation should be something like 0.0 inHg to 30.0 in Hg. So an automotive vacuum gauge and hand vacuum pump or a syringe could be used to test its range. Using the open air as a starting point it should output in a linear rate when vacuum is applied.

Frankly in LIMP mode, it should map it well enough to run and not foul plugs. There is another member/thread riding his around with one in Error. The ECM will accept certain faults and map around them so you get home.

Let say your plugs are fould. If they are not heated to BURN OFF ALL THE GAS it could foul them again. A PROPANE tourch to 200F about 3 to 4 times and allow them to cool will burn off allot of crap, , , ,

 

[FinalImpact]

Just checked again, the tps in diag mode responds well to fast and slow throttle movement, 16 at the bottom and 100 at the top.

VACUUM:
Also if it happens to be an OPTION in the Diagnostic menu you could apply gentle vacuum and see it responds. But I'm not sure it exists to be checked. Don't EXCEED 30 inHg or damage may result.

 

[Motogiro]

Update:

Found two things.

1. Air leak, one of the rubber leads to test throttle body sync was punctured. We undid the tie strap pulled it forward a little and reconected it.

2. The Air Temp Sensor is testing -1 ohm out of spec. Added a resistor and ran the bike and it ran better but it seems that the plugs are fouled again. Can get it to start and run at higher revs but won't stay running at idle.

Does anyone know how to test the air preasure sensor? The shop manul really does not give a good explanation.

Thanks

This might help? PM me your email.

See attached:

 

[Cali rider]

...Does anyone know how to test the air preasure sensor? The shop manul really does not give a good explanation.

Thanks

1- Engine off.
2- Connect a hand-held vacuum pump directly to the air pressure sensor.
3- Put the LCD display into DIAG mode, then get to d 03
4- With NO vacuum the display value should be 0.
5- Pump up the vacuum slowly, the display should slowly climb towards 100 at approx. 28.5"Hg. Release the vacuum slowly and the displayed value should go back to 0.

2 quick questions: When you first start the motor COLD, does it go into fast idle? After it warms up (30-45 seconds) does the idle noticeably drop to normal?

 

[UHcougarJohn]

2 quick questions: When you first start the motor COLD, does it go into fast idle? After it warms up (30-45 seconds) does the idle noticeably drop to normal?

Yes the idle starts fast and then slows down to normal after wards.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes the idle starts fast and then slows down to normal after wards.

That pretty much shoots the theory of the ECU staying in cold mode (running rich) and pointing back towards an ignition problem.

Can you scroung up a timing light or something (Cali rider, Cliff?) that could snap around each spark plug wire and see if its loosing spark when it acts up?

A timing light would be the easiest..

 

[UHcougarJohn]

Ordered the air temp sensor.

While at Yamaha I talked to a tech and the only thing he could think of I haven't tested electrical are the pick up sensors. I will check the book when I get home to see how to check it.

 

[Motogiro]

Ordered the air temp sensor.

While at Yamaha I talked to a tech and the only thing he could think of I haven't tested electrical are the pick up sensors. I will check the book when I get home to see how to check it.

By pickup does he mean Crankshaft Position Sensor?

 

[UHcougarJohn]

By pickup does he mean Crankshaft Position Sensor?

I specificly asked him this same question and he told me they are not the same?

I guess it is possible he doesn't know the model well enough and assumed Fz6 has seperate pickup sensor(s). He said there should be wire coming out of the case close to the CPS, but I can't recall seeing any so I kind of just took him at his word.

He did tell me since my bike is no older than 6 years its $80 flat fee to tell me what's wrong with it. Quoting the service tech, "1hr labor flat, if the tech takes longer its his problem.".

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Possibly, he's trying to get an hour of tech time...

Thats the only sensor that be considered a "pick up sensor" that comes out on the side case (right hand side) with one wire...

Could very well be, just starts to warm up and the sensor inside the case is smacked around or just failing to transmit signals to the ECU..


Posts 47-49, page 5, address the pick up coil that it was tested electrically and passed...

Per the manual, it should be 68 degrees F when tested, nothing about testing hot.

Maybe its failing once hot?? Perhaps test it once warm and acting up?

 

[UHcougarJohn]

In the parts fisch under electrical 1 there is ref #21 part # 5VX-81670-00-00 Pick Up Assembly, I guess Maybe that is what the shop manual calls the Crankshaft Position Sensor?

 

[Motogiro]

I specificly asked him this same question and he told me they are not the same?

I guess it is possible he doesn't know the model well enough and assumed Fz6 has seperate pickup sensor(s). He said there should be wire coming out of the case close to the CPS, but I can't recall seeing any so I kind of just took him at his word.

He did tell me since my bike is no older than 6 years its $80 flat fee to tell me what's wrong with it. Quoting the service tech, "1hr labor flat, if the tech takes longer its his problem.".

Sorry, I don't know of any other pickup for timing/ crank position on the FZ6 than what I'm seeing in the manual.

 

[UHcougarJohn]

Possibly, he's trying to get an hour of tech time...

Thats the only sensor that be considered a "pick up sensor" that comes out on the side case (right hand side) with one wire...

Could very well be, just starts to warm up and the sensor inside the case is smacked around or just failing to transmit signals to the ECU..

Posts 47-49 address the pick up coil that it was tested electrically and passed...

I have not removed the cover for a visual inspection just unplugged it and it passed on the meter.

 

[Motogiro]

In the parts fisch under electrical 1 there is ref #21 part # 5VX-81670-00-00 Pick Up Assembly, I guess Maybe that is what the shop manual calls the Crankshaft Position Sensor?

That's it!

I would think the ECU would throw a #12 error code but that may be during a complete fail only..

As Scott pointed out check resistance hot. The hot and cold readings should be a little different but not much. Of course you'll also be able to check the trigger wheel.

 

[UHcougarJohn]

Possibly, he's trying to get an hour of tech time...

Thats the only sensor that be considered a "pick up sensor" that comes out on the side case (right hand side) with one wire...

Could very well be, just starts to warm up and the sensor inside the case is smacked around or just failing to transmit signals to the ECU..


Posts 47-49, page 5, address the pick up coil that it was tested electrically and passed...

Per the manual, it should be 68 degrees F when tested, nothing about testing hot.

Maybe its failing once hot?? Perhaps test it once warm and acting up?

I was hoping he wasn't just trying to get an extra hour out of me that's why I hate taking my vehicles for someone else to fix.

Trust me it has not been tested at 68 degrees F its at leaste 95 in my garage

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was hoping he wasn't just trying to get an extra hour out of me that's why I hate taking my vehicles for someone else to fix.

Trust me it has not been tested at 68 degrees F its at leaste 95 in my garage

The above was just a thought, I could be wrong but he didn't want to give you too much or you won't be back (lost business)...

I'd test it again cold (room temp,90+ degree's), then warm it up and see what happens with the #'s. Hopefully we're narrowing it down...

That small side cover comes off pretty easy (you don't have to drain any oil but keep it on the side stand). The sensor bolts to the inside cover and should be locktited in.

As Cliff stated, it may not be throwing a code as it is partially working.. You'd think, IF this is the problem, it would have popped a code...

You didn't do any re-wiring or work in the area of that pick up wire "routes" did you? Just to make sure the wire isn't pinched somewhere inbetween. Just a thought, might be worth a peek if the PU passes....

GOOD LUCK!!!!!

 

[FinalImpact]

opcorn:

Perhaps I'm being a J/A but all of the little inputs meld into a bigger picture via ECM. Each have SOME say so but only few KILL it like it is now. The pressure sensor and Air intake sensor are not it.
The one under the microscope (CPS) at this second could be the one but I never heard an answer about the ECM and IF it was EVER subject to electric shock, LIKE FOR EXAMPLE A COMPRESSION TEST hours, days, weeks, months before this happened. Why would I bring it up; if the PLUG WIRES WERE NOT GROUNDED THE ECM IS THE WEAKEST LINK! And what of the plugs?? Is it fair to say it flooded out BRAND NEW PLUGS?

As you were. . . opcorn: