drop bike and now won't engage gear.

[mvthai]

Hi everyone, I am new to this site so please help me how in anyways you can by pointing me in the right direction or giving me advice to solve my problems.

I have a 2004 Yamaha FZ6 that I just got online. The previous owner said he drop the bike in a low speed (10mph) in a parking lot. When I got the bike, it looks very good with minimal damages to the left side. The bike works fine when I got it. I was able to ride it for a few months before I drop it myself trying to go uphill (trying to park in my garage, my garage is slanted uphill). Now when I start my bike, it starts fine but when I put it into 1st gear, it dies. Even when I give it a little throttle, engine will die when I put it into gear. Anyone knows what might be causing this problem, please help. I was probable going about 1-5mph uphill when I tip over. I really can't say I "drop" the bike. I just lost balance and tip over. Thanks in advance.

 

[nsaP]

Kinda sounds like something got broken with the kickstand sensor and it thinks the stand is down.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Kinda sounds like something got broken with the kickstand sensor and it thinks the stand is down.[/QUOTE

+1 on the above..

Put the bike on the centerstand. The switch is attached to the frame and has a "Plunger" that goes in and out when the kick stand is raised or lowered.

** If the ECU thinks the kickstand is down, when you pull in the clutch and put it in gear, its designed to KILL the ENGINE for safety reasons...

Make sure the plunger is going in and out fully. You can clean the switch fairly easily without removing any wiring/unplugging from the bike... The switch is pretty basic once you take it off and dissassemble. Clean the contacts and put back together with dilectric grease.

I put a short stool next to the bike and cleaned the switch right there on the left side of the bike, easier than pulling the tank, tracing the wire and un-plugging..

There is also a clutch lever safety switch under the clutch perch (you'll see two wires going to it). Make sure their connected. The clutch switch usually is ok but again, make sure the "plunger" goes in and out when you work the clutch lever. You can spray a little lubricant inside the switch if need be but your problem is likely the side stand switch...

Please post your results and good luck..

 

[mvthai]

Thanks for the replies. That was very detail and I appreciate it very much. I'll look for it tonight when I get home from work.

Thank you!
Mike

 

[mvthai]

hey guys, thank you for the info. I finally got around to working on the bike but got into another problem. first off, the bike have been sitting there for a few months before I had a chance to join the forum and ask for help and 2nd, the battery died and I had to get a new one. so, today, I got to work on the bike and it won't start.

here's what I did.
1. put a new battery in.
2. tried to primed the fuel but turning the key on and off for a few times (but I didn't hear the fuel pump come on).
3. tried to start the bike, engine turns over but bike won't start. (remember, bike started before I left it but just wouldn't engage gear).
4. sprayed some engine start into the air intake and tried to started the bike (it works, bike starts but dies afterward). this tells me that bike is not getting fuel. may be bad fuel pump because I didn't hear the fuel pump primed when I turn the key to on.

what do you guys think? is my troubleshooting dead on or is there something else that might be causing this problem. Thanks in advance.

mike

 

[FinalImpact]

Lift the tank and check the wires to the fuel pump. There are two sets of cables and you pulled them out accidentally.

I should know this by now but I don't recall which is which w/out looking it up. But one of the connectors (either green or White) likely has wire pulled out from it or HOPEFULLY the whole connector was pulled off and all you have to do is re-seat it.

Lift the tank and tell us what you found.

Also be sure not to kink the hoses when setting the tank down! Reach into those triangle solts by the seat and pull the hose back while lowering and then pull them down over by the exhaust on the bottom of the bike.

 

[Black_Cirrus]

And also if your kickstand switch is messed up it won't prime or start in gear must be in neutral

 

[mvthai]

thanks for the replies. I never thought of that but when I lifted the tank to replace the battery, I was very careful not to pull anything. That doesn't mean that I didn't accidentally pulled something out. I'll check it and get back with you guys. Hopefully it's that and not my fuel pump.

Thanks again!
Mike

 

[mvthai]

ok, so, I lifted the tank and look around and can not find anything wrong. both wire harness were connected, so I unplug them and reconnect them just in case there was a bad connection but still nothing.

 

[Ben_H]

Stupid question but the kill switch on right side handle bar is in run position.

 

[FinalImpact]

ok, so, I lifted the tank and look around and can not find anything wrong. both wire harness were connected, so I unplug them and reconnect them just in case there was a bad connection but still nothing.

So was that the only thing you did was to replace the battery??? So you lifted the tank or was anything else done to it?

All if the pins into the connectors should be seated the same depth but this doesn't guarantee the copper wire inside the insulation didn't get stretched and broken. The wire colors to the pump are Red-blue trace, Black to ground (GREEN CONNECTOR). The fuel sender is Green-white trace, black to ground. If you have an Ohm meter or hand held DMM you can measure the black wires and they should both equal Zero ohms to the chassis ground. When the key is ON the Red-Blue trace should be near +12Vdc.

Does the fuel meter still work? Also a 12V test light could be used here. From chassis ground to the Red/blue should light the light. To check ground go from +12v battery to the black lead. The test lamp should light.

All of this is assuming nothing else changed. But as stated the drop could have impaired the side stand switch too but that will be OK as long as the bike remains in Neutral.

 

[mvthai]

Stupid question but the kill switch on right side handle bar is in run position.

lol.. yes, it's on run. starter will not turn over if on kill.

I actually found something out just now. something I should of check from the get go but forgot to. Open up the fuse box and found the "EFI" 10a fuse was blown. so, I replace the 10a fuse, turn the bike to on, but still no priming sound from the fuel pump BUT, I did hear the fuse blow again. rechecked the fuses and everything is good except for the same EFI 10a fuse. Do I have a short somewhere????

What exactly is the EFI 10a fuse for? is this the fuse for ecu or fuel injection? (EFI ?= electronic fuel injection???)

 

[FinalImpact]

lol.. yes, it's on run. starter will not turn over if on kill.

I actually found something out just now. something I should of check from the get go but forgot to. Open up the fuse box and found the "EFI" 10a fuse was blown. so, I replace the 10a fuse, turn the bike to on, but still no priming sound from the fuel pump BUT, I did hear the fuse blow again. rechecked the fuses and everything is good except for the same EFI 10a fuse. Do I have a short somewhere????

What exactly is the EFI 10a fuse for? is this the fuse for ecu or fuel injection? (EFI ?= electronic fuel injection???)

I think that's a yes!
Retrace every step. Do you have a shop manual / service manual. From the "Home" button top left of screen is BoneMans site. Go there and grab the OEM PDF service manual. It has a complete wiring diagram so you use that AND following the trouble shooting steps. Did you unplug anything else or connect the battery backwards even for a split second?

 

[greg]

also try disconnecting the battery for 15 mins to reset the ECU

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you can find out EXACTLY WHAT PARTS were replaced after the PO tipped over may be of help..

Its very likely a part was changed out and pinched some wires. It took some time for the insulation to wear thru and now its grounded... Its some what rare the FZ has a specific bad area where the wiring harness is faulty from the factory..

BTW, have you had the front sprocket cover off? There's TWO wires (kickstand switch and stator wires) that run just ahead of that cover. It is VERY EASY when replacing that cover to pinch those wires between the block and the cover.. Just make sure the wires, where it curves around the left side stator cover is intact, there should also be a plastic covered bend over holder that secures them next to the stator cover...

There is a method, (either Cliff or Randy likely know it) for checking for shorts. What I've done in the past, put in a good fuse, make sure its real quiet where your working, then turn on the key. I've tracked down shorts by hearing the actual "grounding/pop" of the short to the frame. Lifting the tank again may help when doing the method if the short is under the seat. You may go thru a box of fuses..

You may want to disconnect the fuel pump, level connectors just to make sure their NOT GROUNDING OUT THEMSELVES. If the fuse doesn't pop until you plug into the pump, you've pin pointed your issue...Not as likely but possible if the pump seized up...

On my old Yamaha 1980 XS 650 twin(looks like a Triumph), the main harness developed a short where the harness bent/went over the actual backbone of the frame under the seat.. Took about 3 fuses, removal of the seat but I found it...


NOT RELATED, but the below is a recall that may affect your bike:

Vehicle Make / Model: Model Year(s): YAMAHA / FJR1300 2003-2005 YAMAHA / FZS600 2004-2005 YAMAHA / XV1700 2002-2005 YAMAHA / YZF-R1 2004-2005 NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 06V371000 Summary:
ON CERTAIN MOTORCYCLES, AN IMPROPERLY DESIGNED THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR COULD CAUSE AN INTERMITTENTLY UNSTABLE IDLE WHEN THE ENGINE IS AT IDLING SPEED WHEN THE MOTORCYCLE IS STOPPED OR DURING LOW-SPEED OPERATIONS. THE ENGINE COULD STALL AS A RESULT.
Consequence:
IF THE ENGINE STALLS AFTER THE OPERATOR DISENGAGES THE CLUTCH IN A LOW GEAR WHILE RIDING, THE REAR TIRE MIGHT SLIP MOMENTARILY IF THE OPERATOR ABRUPTLY RE-ENGAGES THE CLUTCH. THIS COULD RESULT IN A CRASH WITH INJURY OR DEATH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON OCTOBER 16, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT YAMAHA AT 1-888-88-YAMAHA.
Notes:
CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.


http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm

 

[04fizzer]

It definitely sounds like you have a short somewhere. You'll need to trace the wires for that circuit. Those wires can be found in the repair manual. Look very closely small breaks in the insulation of the wires. Something's grounding out and popping that fuse.

 

[mvthai]

yes, the only thing replaced was the battery. when I got the bike, all it came with was the owner's manual, no service's manual. I'll check out boneman's site and dl those manuals and will check the wirings. I can't remember what I could have done to short anything except maybe leaving it sitting too long and the weather condition, bugs or whatever could have got through the wires. anyways, thanks again for all the helpful replies.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You have a PM.

Also, did you replace the fuse, disconnect the fuel pump and turn it on? If so did the fuse blow?

Does it only blow when the fuel pump is plugged in?

 

[mvthai]

You have a PM.

Also, did you replace the fuse, disconnect the fuel pump and turn it on? If so did the fuse blow?

Does it only blow when the fuel pump is plugged in?

to answer the previous question, the fuel gauge works fine, all lights & signals works. I know the plugs are getting spark because it does fires up when I spray some engine start into the intake. so, this "short" would have to be isolated to the fuel delivery system. this is where I need to focus on finding the cause.
haven't start troubleshooting electronics yet. imo, electronics are the worst to fool with and will take the longest time to solve but we can start with the most likely, fuel pump, when I get home from work tonight. if the fuse doesn't blows with the fuel pump unplug, I guess we can stop there.

 

[PhotoAl]

Once after working on my bike with the tank up I had some trouble starting. It primed, cranked and everything but would not fire. Checked the forum (thanks folks) and read about some people having trouble with starting after having the tank up. Fix was to crank with the throttle open until it starts - took me 25 or 30 seconds of continious cranking before it first fired!!!! Took some more cranking to get it to start and run - was being careful to keep from starting it and taking it instantly to high revs. After I got it started it ran just fine.

My best advice for finding a short is to check all of the suspect spots like where you have been working. If that fails be systematic and start at the fuze box with a ohm meter and start going thru the wiring harness until you find it. Open connectors and try. May be me but every time I start jumping around and looking I usually have to resort to the systematic method anyway. A while back had to chase an electrical problem on my fast bike (Honda Metro 50 yup 49cc) and wound up following my own advice after 10 hours of looking for the "quick" solution.