Digital Gear Indicator for 07 FZ6

Motogiro

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Luping

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The indicator it's brand new so the chance to be broken it's very low. In manual says for Yamaha fazer after 2004. Must be some wrong connections. I have the service manual for my bike but for me, wiring diagram looks like rocket science
 

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The indicator it's brand new so the chance to be broken it's very low. In manual says for Yamaha fazer after 2004. Must be some wrong connections. I have the service manual for my bike but for me, wiring diagram looks like rocket science

Can you attach the installation instructions to a post here or do you have a link on the internet to the instructions?
 

Luping

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Done, i did it Blah
Datatool user instalation it's a waste of time.... They said to insert the indicator "loom to back of clocks" I did exactly like this but it doesn't work.
I connected the indicator under the seat to: Grey cable - RPM (double jack, right side : grey with black) Light blue with brown dots - NEUTRAL (single jack in the middle) Pink cable - SPEED SENSOR (left side,triangle jack : black/orange/pink) My bike is FZ6N from 2005.
Thnak you guys for your support.20160326_204949.jpg
 
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fazil

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I bought a $20 chinese gear indicator, and plugged it yesterday. It looks cool and works good. But i couldn't do the programming properly. It wasn't clear in the instruction paper.
Now it shows 5th gear in the 1st gear. How can i reset and start from scratch i don't know. Any help would be useful.

Tako-01.jpg
 

FinalImpact

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Either wired incorrectly, the wrong unit for the FZ6 inputs or the unit is malfunctioning or damaged.

What is entertaining is that the ecu creators could easily have made an output for this as the ecu is already performing this logic for the fuel and igniton maps....

The combined input of CPS and Speed sensor are used to tell the ecu what gear the rider has selected.

I can see using programable logic to detect the gear splits or have a map built into the device that knows the gear ratios of the 6 gears for the bike it is used on.

My fuel controller has the option to redefine the gear ratios if there is a need too. But its really there so the product can be configured for other applications.

Crisis-TPS_Settings_zpsld0lpzqb.jpg


As for reseting one; maybe look for a label that covers a pin hole to access a button or some event like power cycling it 5x clears it??? You have to do some webcrawling to see how its done or contact the mfg!
 
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fazil

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Thanks Final. I made it after a couple of tries. There is an extra wire for set up. I discovered that wire can be used for resetting also.
Now everything works fine.

Even cheap Chinese bikes have gear indicator feature as standart these days. Now i have it too :)

By the way i thought of rolling forward the odo, can it be done just using tacho and speed sensors from outside? I need to roll 20K km.
I am not an electronic expert, but if it's all about pulse, it can be done manually may be. I don't know.
 

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Thanks Final. I made it after a couple of tries. There is an extra wire for set up. I discovered that wire can be used for resetting also.
Now everything works fine.

Even cheap Chinese bikes have gear indicator feature as standart these days. Now i have it too :)

By the way i thought of rolling forward the odo, can it be done just using tacho and speed sensors from outside? I need to roll 20K km.
I am not an electronic expert, but if it's all about pulse, it can be done manually may be. I don't know.

Good deal on getting the reset! Why do you want to roll the ODO forward?
 

fazil

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Because i recently changed my S1 speedo with S2 speedo.
Previous speedo odometer had 34k km, new one has just 11K


Satilik-02.jpg
 

FinalImpact

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It could be done. So you are saying the gauge cluster retained the kilometres / miles traveled?

Pick up some used parts and lets do an experiment!!!

One option is to pick up a used speed sensor and used trigger wheel from a late model R6. I think they used 3rd or 5th gear as "the input source" but basically mount the sensor in close proximity to the device you intend to spin and connect the sensor to the bike.
Spin the source....

For now, keep it simple and just turn the key on. Coasting w engine off but key on clocks distance, so - we give it fake input and see what happens!!!
Meet Trigger:
Trigger_S320_zpsdee3c0bd.jpg


Trigger, test drive #1:
TriggerIMG_20130928_112849_460_zps0fa750dc.jpg


Trigger at 1214 RPM: hint - my idle speed is roughly 1200 RPM so this is a good baseline to work from.
RPM = t/period or 60sec/0.0494sec = 1214 RPM
TriggerIMG_20130928_113416_748_zps2cf89741.jpg


Trigger plus Dewalt: lol
TriggerIMG_20130928_113534_996_zpsd7ebac68.jpg



I hacked that from a thread I started as the concept is the same thing you need to do....
 

fazil

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:) Final, you are cool.

This experiment is just like the old school drill method, that analog odometers do.
But it looks like it works perfectly.

I thought of just sending some pulses /signals to that speedo sensor gizmo without a drill :)
But this looks more solid to me. Except i have to turn the drill million times :)

And about retaining of the speedo, yes it does. I thought ecu has a memory of the miles travelled but it doesn't.
 
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FinalImpact

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Im thinking a drill is not the best option.
You have an air compressor? Perhaps crank up a pneumatic rotary tool, and use an cutting disc arbor to hold the wheel???

Do keep in mind that it may not be happy until the wave shape produces the signal it expects to see!! What Im saying is the added locator dimple on our trigger wheels is not ideal. The transmission gears do not have that. So, you may need to spin a whole gear at higher speeds!!!! Or at least something symmetrical!!!!
 

FinalImpact

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Buy a 2006 R6 trigger wheel and cut off the added tooth. And grab a used speed sensor. With a rotary motor you could be racking up miles in less than 20"!!!!

It might cost you a meal or something but very doable!
Get on fleebay and buy!
 

FinalImpact

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:) Final, you are cool.

This experiment is just like the old school drill method, that analog odometers do.
But it looks like it works perfectly.

I thought of just sending some pulses /signals to that speedo sensor gizmo without a drill :)
But this looks more solid to me. Except i have to turn the drill million times :)

And about retaining of the speedo, yes it does. I thought ecu has a memory of the miles travelled but it doesn't.

Look at post 8 the speed sensor is in the case and the gear its reading is right next to it.

Final Impact winter project, playing with trigger!!!
 

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Maybe a signal generator. If the impedance is close you may be able to generate the pulse from an audio output. No drill, no sensor. Just signal. :) Play middle C on my synthesizer with a square or sawtooth wave and........Lol! :rockon:Blah
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The issue I see with this ^^, is the engine "is running" with the trigger, but there's no miles being put on, just like at a stand still idling.

I didn't the many pages on that link, if you are getting a movement signal to the gauge, that'd work.

IMO, I'd leave the lower mileage on the gauge.

Have you had an issues with the lower RED line with the different tach (lower RPM range from the FZ1) vs the FZ6?
IE, bouncing off the limiter? I would think the limiter would be independent of the FZ1 gauge.
 

FinalImpact

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Maybe a signal generator. If the impedance is close you may be able to generate the pulse from an audio output. No drill, no sensor. Just signal. :) Play middle C on my synthesizer with a square or sawtooth wave and........Lol! :rockon:Blah

When I spun that up it has some crazy low and high voltages. As the RPS increases, so does the voltage output from the sensor. Like from 0.25v to 65volts! Will the ecu care? I doubt it but....

------------
Edit; cps and speed sensor are two different technologies... the speed sensor outputs a near digital signal from 0.6vdc to 4.6vdc.... a signal generator could do this!

Often referred to as a function generator!!! Cheap at 2nd hand stores. Likely on fleebay too!
-------------

PS if you read it, the goal is to simulate transmission output, not crankshaft output. Pictures are for reference only.
 
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fazil

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IMO, I'd leave the lower mileage on the gauge.

Have you had an issues with the lower RED line with the different tach (lower RPM range from the FZ1) vs the FZ6?
IE, bouncing off the limiter? I would think the limiter would be independent of the FZ1 gauge.

Me too on leaving it as is, after looking at Final's experiment tread, i don't have guts or skills to tamper with the sensors. Also i don't have any electronic gizmos or access to them.
By the way, i can't buy anything from ebay, because paypal is no more active here regarding tax disputes with the goverment.

About redline, you mean, rpm limiter is connected to ecu, i think so, but i haven't tried it yet. Tacho seems working good, and seems much better than round style speedo.

Final, thanks for the info, i've read all your "play with trigger" thread. You like electronics much more than me. I think i am a mechanic guy. (Drill guy)
 

FinalImpact

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When Zealot parted out his Canadian FZ I bought the wiring harness and ECU to continue the experiment.

Its nice to see another cluster using the same communication protocol. It opens the door for me as I need a used cluster to see RPM and speed.

Any chance you wanna loan or sell your gauge cluster?
Also, it would be nice to know if diagnostic mode works as it should on that cluster....


Wanted working but may be damaged instrument cluster for FZ6... preferably S2 compatible.
 
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