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Chevyfazer done did it again...

I plan on ordering everything I need tomorrow morning and while its on its way working on the case
 
DAMN, I wish I had free time in my life, id totally make the 30 min drive to help :rolleyes:

Thats one hell of a clusterf#@k you caused with this one! Blah
 
Travis, you better see about throwing the input shaft into to some V-blocks. Where the tooth left its mate is a fixed gear on the input shaft (pinon in this case). Hopefully it didn't bend it. For that matter; V-block both shafts and stick a dial indicator in a couple places...

So you're saying your drive sprocket lost teeth over this too? Needless to say, still curious what that slender metal chunk is with the hole in it.

Good luck!
 
on the slim off chance you dont have the calipers or fixed dial indicator, I have some somewhere in my giant snapon chest if you need. :rolleyes:Blah
 
I'm not too overly worried about the shafts to be honest being a metallurgist I've hardened 10s of thousands of gears just like this as well as shafts, the gears get case harden which makes the outside extemly hard but the harder you go the more brittle they become. Its designed for surface wear only not impact wear where the shafts are hardened for overall durability and strength. If it would have been 4th or 3rd gear which are located more central its a possibility that it could have been warped but being on the end it would have needed a huge blow to even move it a 10,000th out. Plus looking at the bearing and races there are no signs of wear that would have come from anything being off balance and everything slipped right off nice and smooth where if it was warped I would have most likely needed a puller. The bearing I'm speaking of I pulled off with 2 fingers and both races.
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On that same note: if that shaft were bent in the slightest, the noise from that box woulda been something alarming.....
Whup Whup Whup whup whup whup whup.... As it would throw the gear mesh of ALL gears out of whack and made people like me cry.
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:(
 
Off topic but you may have some insight - any chance these engine cases are not pure aluminum??? As in something added for strength that makes them less likely to be TIG'd back together with plane Jane off the shelf aluminum filler rod??

FWIW: I put an S1 header on the S2 bike and had to remove a protrusion from the oil pan. In short I ground off the offending bump and welded up the hole using an unknown aluminum filler rod. The fill went fine but 4 out of 5 times when I stopped it left a void. Made me think the materials were not liking each other???

WHY I ask? there is another active thread ( this one ) with a bigger hole than yours to be filled. Anyway - the pan and case may be different materials. IDK!
 
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Its a aluminum alloy no doubt being cast but that's where the main issue with welding it is, the cast part not the aluminum part. Cast of any material is significantly less dense than a forged piece and can be very "un-uniform" or irregular in its structure leaving microscopic gaps between its molecules. Because of this cast likes to "burn away" at a very quick rate. In your case it was most likely the heat was just a bit too high, melting everything before giving the filler rod or base material a chance fill in and fuse. I remember welding my oil pan up and it was cast as well most likely of the same allow as the block.
 
Hey! That's the same tranny Mr. Peabody used in his Way back Machine! Lol!

Sent from Moto's Motorola


Until the aftermarket trannies came into play NASCAR and countless others used Ford 4SPD Top Loaders and Ford 9in diff's as they didn't break like the 10 and 12 bolts GM diffs or the big bad Muncie!!! lol

Yes, a Ford Guy through and through... Although I drove home one night using only 2nd and 4th as a keeper in the top loader let go and using 1st and 3rd drove the gearset into the reverse idler... lol
The good old days... Still miss my V8's
 
Until the aftermarket trannies came into play NASCAR and countless others used Ford 4SPD Top Loaders and Ford 9in diff's as they didn't break like the 10 and 12 bolts GM diffs or the big bad Muncie!!!

Off topic but speaking of that I had always herd how "indestructible" a ford 9" rear end was and its versatility so when I built a little race truck a few years back that's the rear end I put in it. When I say race truck it was a little s10 built for drags. Built a 383 that had 500ish HP on motor then I put a 250shot of nitrous on it all going down to a narrowed over built 9" ford with 6.14 gears, strange axles and 15" 32" inch slicks. The 9" ford lasted about 10 passes then right at the start I completely twisted the entire yoke section off the front of the rear end absolutely destroying the "indestructible" 9" ford. So in guess you could look at that 2 ways, 1 I'm really good at breaking stuff or that was one hell of a truck lol
 
Thats like, "Houston, we had traction"...

Nitrous too... How'd the SB hold up? Thank god driveline safety hoops!
 
Lol no joke that sucker would launch. But it held up great until I sold it, only engine problems I had was not tq the harmonic balancer down right and it flew off about 100mph and 7,000 rpm taking out the water neck and dumping coolant under the tires which made for one wild ride.
 
It lives! It lives!!!! Got her all back together and she shifts smooth as silk!!! I'm getting pretty damn good at fixing the impossible, maybe I should open up my own bike shop lol
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It lives! It lives!!!! Got her all back together and she shifts smooth as silk!!! I'm getting pretty damn good at fixing the impossible, maybe I should open up my own bike shop lo


Amazing work Chev! :rockon:
 
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