Almost got my beauty stolen (Help with repairs)

[Motogiro]

Unplug the module under the Left hand plastic pod (left side of the bike. The unit has a 16 pin plug but there are 13 wires connected to it. That's the module that may be damaged. Put your ohm meter in the 1x range. For the neutral safety switch, ground one meter wire to an engine bolt and the other meter wire will go to the neutral safety switch itself (one connection). Operate the shifter from a gear and get a reading, now put the bike neutral. You should get an open and closed reading to show the switch is operating. I suspect you also have a bad neutral safety switch because you were not able to start the bike before grounding the neutral safety switch wire.

The clutch lever and side stand switch will be tested at the respective switches between the 2 connections on each of the switches.

Again with the module plug disconnected test continuity on each switch by operating the lever or side stand to observe an open and closed state.

Let us know what you find.

 

[IPilot]

Ok I finally got the multimeter. I am sorry I am not really good at this. Where are the 3 switches and how is that I test them? I just don't want to assume anything and do something wrong. Also, the bike needs to be on right? (I promise I'm not joking... I just want to learn how to do it the right way)
Thank you guys!


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[Motogiro]

Ok I finally got the multimeter. I am sorry I am not really good at this. Where are the 3 switches and how is that I test them? I just don't want to assume anything and do something wrong. Also, the bike needs to be on right? (I promise I'm not joking... I just want to learn how to do it the right way)
Thank you guys!


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No do not test continuity with the power on....

Do you know where the Starting circuit cut-off relay assembly is?

It's #25 on this diagram... http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500460fcf8700209bc795316/electrical-2

 

[IPilot]

Yes I know which one is it. So everything with the power off. What do I do?


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[FinalImpact]

Yes I know which one is it. So everything with the power off. What do I do?


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Does your meter have a Diode or Ohms test function? If no, you'll need to use a test lamp & battery. If yes, here is a procedure. Pin out and meter test lead position is critical for useful information. If they were nice, you will look with good lamp and see the # numbers at the connectors.

Begin by shorting meter leads together and reading the value from the lowest OHM position. It should read less than couple ohms. When it test expects "Continuity" - you should see this value.
When the leads are apart - something like 1.0M ohm or more >1,000,000.

Remove the relay and begin testing. Record your values.

Continuity
Positive tester probe → Sky blue “1”
Negative tester probe → Black/Yellow “2”

No continuity
Positive tester probe → Black/Yellow “2”
Negative tester probe → Skyblue “1”

Continuity
Positive tester probe → Skyblue “1”
Negative tester probe →Black/Red “3”

No continuity
Positive tester probe → Black/Red “3”
Negative tester probe → Skyblue “1”

Continuity
Positive tester probe → Skyblue “1”
Negative tester probe → Lightgreen “4”

No continuity
Positive tester probe → Lightgreen “4”
Negative tester probe → Skyblue “1”

Continuity
Positive tester probe → Blue/Green “5”
Negative tester probe →Black/Red “3”

No continuity
Positive tester probe → Black/Red “3”
Negative tester probe → Blue/Green “5”

 

[IPilot]

Ok understand. Now my connector does not have numbers and the colors are confusing. I'm attaching 2 pictures so you can probably tell me which one is what?

Thank you again for your patience!!


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[Motogiro]

Put you meter in the ohms position. your meter should have a few ranges. You want your meter on the 1X setting or lowest setting. If your meter has an auto setting press the range button so that there is no M or K in the readout. The meter will probably read OL.

Clutch lever switch test
Attach one probe to the black with red tracer wire pin and attach the other probe to the black with yellow tracer wire pin. Operate the clutch lever. you should see the meter show that the switch is operating from an open to a closed reading on your meter.

Neutral switch test.
Attach one probe to the plain blue wire pin (no tracer) and attach the other probe to any ground.(Engine frame or negative battery lead. Operate the shifter from 1st to neutral.. You should see an open and close indication on your meter.

Side stand switch test.
Attach one probe to the blue with green tracer wire pin and the other probe to any ground as in the previous test. Operate the side stand up and down. You should see an open and close indication.

If any switch fails the test, repair or replace as needed. and see if the bike will start and run. If the switches pass the tests there is high probability your module was shorted and has blown diodes. The fact that the bike ran when you shorted the neutral switch to ground implicates the neutral switch but as soon as removed the ground the bike died. If the side stand was down the computer saw this as a danger and stopped the engine because it thought the bike was in gear even if it was actually in neutral.

Do these tests and get back to us. Don't worry if it takes a while to figure out. Take your time, relax and enjoy repairing your bike. This is the Zen part.....

 

[IPilot]

Thank you guys! Tests done. Neutral switch test was the only one with no readings at all. The other tests gave me readings for open and close. What should I do now?


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[FinalImpact]

You moved the lever in and out of gear i.e. 1st and neutral and it didn't change states?? Open (infinite) / closed zero ohms?

Above the swing arm pivot is the sensor. Confirm is connected and not corroded. Do your OHM test right off the sensor moving it from 1st gear to Neutral. It should read open and closed. Engine and Key off.

If the sensor works, that leaves the wire harness itself.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

BTW, that neutral safety light switch as occassionally gotten water around the wire/switch causing some issues and one had an actual crack (kinda rare).

Pay attention for any hairline cracks, bad connections while there.

A little bit of di-lectric grease (once the problem is solved) on that (switch/connector) helps keep the water/shorting issues away..

 

[Motogiro]

If it's just the neutral switch, you should be able to start the bike with the side stand up and the clutch lever pulled in. Can you start it this way?

 

[FinalImpact]

If it's just the neutral switch, you should be able to start the bike with the side stand up and the clutch lever pulled in. Can you start it this way?

I think the relay is bad. But it needs tested!

 

[IPilot]

I tested the sensor and it didn't do anything either. I can't start the bike with the side send up and the clutch in either. So should it be the relay? What else should I test?


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[IPilot]

If it's just the neutral switch, you should be able to start the bike with the side stand up and the clutch lever pulled in. Can you start it this way?

Thank you! Please look at my last post. What do you guys think?


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[Motogiro]

Thank you! Please look at my last post. What do you guys think?


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Sorry for late response. I've been away camping with very few opportunities to check things.

At this point I would ground the neutral sensor wire as you did before. Put the bike in neutral and you should see the neutral indicator. Put the side stand up. If the bike starts and runs but stops if you pull the neutral sensor wire with the side stand in the up position I would recommend you get a new side stand switch and the relay assembly.

Your previous tests indicated the neutral safety switch is bad when you grounded the sensor wire. Even though the neutral safety switch is bad the FZ6 should start with the clutch pulled in. It looks like you have 2 failures. This will not be the first interrupt/cut off relay to be blown by shorting the primary ignition switch wiring from either theft or lack of insulation for what ever reason. Let us know know by confirming your neutral sensor wire test to ground.

 

[IPilot]

Sorry for late response. I've been away camping with very few opportunities to check things.

At this point I would ground the neutral sensor wire as you did before. Put the bike in neutral and you should see the neutral indicator. Put the side stand up. If the bike starts and runs but stops if you pull the neutral sensor wire with the side stand in the up position I would recommend you get a new side stand switch and the relay assembly.

Your previous tests indicated the neutral safety switch is bad when you grounded the sensor wire. Even though the neutral safety switch is bad the FZ6 should start with the clutch pulled in. It looks like you have 2 failures. This will not be the first interrupt/cut off relay to be blown by shorting the primary ignition switch wiring from either theft or lack of insulation for what ever reason. Let us know know by confirming your neutral sensor wire test to ground.

Ok I tested again and it did shut off when I took the ground off the neutral sensor wire.
So what is the relationship of the side stand safety switch and the neutral? And the relay assembly is the one I disconnected from the sensor for the previous tests with the multimeter right?
So what part numbers do I need to get? Is the side stand switch complicated to replace? Where does it connect to?
Sorry again I want to know exactly what I need to do... This learning part is really fun!!

Thank you!


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[Motogiro]

Ok I tested again and it did shut off when I took the ground off the neutral sensor wire.
So what is the relationship of the side stand safety switch and the neutral? And the relay assembly is the one I disconnected from the sensor for the previous tests with the multimeter right?
So what part numbers do I need to get? Is the side stand switch complicated to replace? Where does it connect to?
Sorry again I want to know exactly what I need to do... This learning part is really fun!!

Thank you!

I constantly learn from others and it is fun!


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If the side stand is put in the down position the side stand switch sends the signal that it is being put down while the bike is in gear and because there is no neutral safety signal the ECU/ECM kills the fuel pump and fuel injectors. That is one of the safety features that the starter cutoff/cut out relay assembly provides. Your bike should start with out the neutral safety switch but it does not. When you ground the neutral safety switch wire your bike starts but even with the side stand in the up position your bike should stay running.

I believe that when the theft attempt was made battery voltage was shorted through the wires in the ignition loop directly to the diodes in the safety module and burned them so the the safety circuit is only partially working.

You may find these parts cheaper....

Starting circuit cut-off relay. Part #25 on the diagram at this site in the link below.
Relay Assy (5Vk-30)
5VK-81950-30-00
$31.24 at Ron Ayers

2008 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6XCL) Electrical 2 | Ron Ayers

Your neutral safety switch. $23.76
Neutral Switch Assy
3GB-82540-01-00
Part #7 here: 2008 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6XCL) Electrical 1 | Ron Ayers

The neutral safety switch should just unscrew and the new one screws back in.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is the side stand switch complicated to replace? Where does it connect to?

As I recall, if you follow the switch wires up next to the LS engine cover, it eventually connects under the fuel tank.

As stated above, not likely related (as Cliff likely got it sorted out) however, issues are known to creep up with the side stand switch.

After reading of issues (I didn't have any), I decided to check and clean the switch. I cleaned mine right on the the bike (takes longer to disconnect the plug than to clean). I simply put a small stool next to the bike and worked on that..

Once un-bolted from the frame, there are two small bolts hold the assembly together. There is a contact inside along with a SMALL SPRING. Obviously, these "lil guys" like to "take flight" so be aware.

(Another member used a cut down "PEN" spring as his spring had rusted away-no contact). I cleaned out all the old grease, (no corrosion on the contacts in my case, spring fine). Re greased with dilectric grease, reassembled, been fine.

*IMO, I wouldn't screw with it until you get your other issues fixed (un-less necessary)

 

[FinalImpact]

.... What do you guys think?

https://vimeo.com/123268449

Any chance you have a bigger set of jumper cable?!!! Just noticed you used battery cables... I guess we should have mention a 24 gauge alligator clip test leads would do vs that 4 gauge cable...
The little stuff closer to the bikes wire size is better because if mistakes are made (wrong connection, slips, things fall off, etc), the little gauge wires will get warm, smoke, sometimes even burn off preserving the test subject.
Using a large cable means no room for mistakes as that cable can carry more current than the bike makes and is simply unfriendly to work with.

If you pass through and see some --> link test leads like these, grab them. Plus its a lot easier to work with...

Looks like you have it narrorwed to a few parts and you'll be up and running. I'd venture to guess current flow through your relay and N safety switch killed them both. Maybe the side stand switch too. All are a path to ground.

 

[IPilot]

Ok guys sorry for the late post but I was out of the country and then pretty busy at work. I fixed the bike thanks to all of you and your awesome advice! I changed both the relay and the neutral sensor and that was it! Everything is running as smooth as before. You guys are great! Thank you again!!


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