Almost got my beauty stolen (Help with repairs)

[IPilot]

A couple of weeks ago I walked into 2 guys trying to steal my bike from my building garage... (main gate was broken). Anyways, they went away but substantially damaged my baby. (2008 Black FZ6)

They cut the wires to hotwire it, which was done successfully, and then they were trying to force the handlebar to break the safety lock (ingnition switch lock) bending it completely, but not succeding.

I know I need a new handle bar, but I am not sure what is that I need on the electrical part... Do I need to get the whole ignition switch?

Any recommendations on the handlebar? OEM or aftermarket? (I don’t want to drill any additional holes or complicate more my life lol)

Thank you guys for your input!!

 

[Motogiro]

They should have only bent the bars.Was the top triple clamp damaged?
Make sure you disconnect the battery negative lead when repairing the cut wires.

 

[The_Paragon]

Sorry about the near theft! That situation sucks!
OEM seems to be the way to go for handlebars. You can do Fz1 bars with less rake back and no rise, or fz6r bar with less rake back and same rize as our fz6, or standard Fz6 bars.
The Fz1 bars are cheap. I think they were $40 from the stealership.

If I still had my old fz6 bars I'd good will them to you for free, but ive already done that! Good luck getting her back on the road!!

 

[ShoopCE]

Lucas,

Sorry to hear about someone attempting to steal your bike. Glad you interrupted them!

Regarding the ignition switch, I think Cliff is suggesting that you should be able to just splice the wires back together. If you don't have one, I'd invest in a soldering iron, flux core solder & some good electrical tape, or in a set of crimp-on connectors and the crimper tool. But you might also have other problems with the switch. Many years ago somebody tried to steal my RD400 and tried to force the switch - probably using a screw driver. This broke an internal part inside the switch. But if the key opening doesn't look messed up, then the switch is probably OK.

Regarding the bars, I'm fine with my stock bars. I tried the FZ6R bars because I heard they caused fewer wrist/numb finger problems. No drilling was required. But I still got numb fingers and when I switched to a Corbin seat (for the back rest for my wife) the sitting position was farther back, and I felt the FZ6R bars caused me to lean forward farther than I wanted. So I switched back to the stock version. If you want to try the FZ6R bars I could sell them for $50, shipped. They cost me $83 at the dealer.

Chris

 

[FinalImpact]

I'd guess the FZ6R bard would be the way to go. BAR Comparison....

If the bar lock to chassis is damaged, you could just swap that section out as the key'd section does unbolt. However, they are tamper proof bolts and must be drilled out.

That said, you could grab a complete ignition switch and re-key it to match your set or swap the tumbler assembly from yours to the replacement. This path is good as you don't have to repair the harness. Nearly plug and play with the aid of a lock smith. Just remove the tank, airbox, battery box. Install. How to remove switch is here.

Repair the harness:
Should you choose this path, crimping with water tight connections is best. Soldering makes the wires stiffer over a longer section which leads to them breaking. If you choose this path anyway, use no clean solder flux that is not acid type or acid core solder. Both will degrade the repair long down the road.
Also they make heat shrink with glue encased in it. So as it shrinks it seals. Take a look here for some places to obtain materials. First post.

 

[IPilot]

Hey guys thanks a lot for your help. I finally got the new handle bar installed and the wires repaired for the ignition. Now another problem came up...
When turning the bike on, everything seems normal and you can hear the normal ignition sound when turning the switch to on. Now, the neutral light is not lighting on, and the bike won't turn on. Battery is fine and everything else... Not sure if this a safety thing or what... Very frustrating this whole thing.
Thanks again for any input.


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[Motogiro]

We had a member short wires at that same location and it damaged the starter interrupt/cutoff relay assembly. This assembly monitors the logic of the safety switches and interrupts the starter from engaging or it can also tell the ECM to stop the engine when the kickstand is put down while the bike is in gear. Make sure your kickstand safety switch wires are attached. Make sure the wires for the clutch safety switch are plugged in to the switch at the clutch lever on the handlebar. There should be 2 narrow spade connectors. If those connectors are attached, pull the clutch lever in and then see if the starter will engage. If the bike starts your starter interrupt/cutoff relay is probably damaged and will need replacement. The neutral indicator light is operated through the same assembly.

Good luck!

 

[IPilot]

Still no luck. I've looked everywhere and everything seems to be attached and working with the exception that the bike won't start. I read on the R6 forum that probably grounding down the neutral switch wire that is behind the engine block? How do I ground it down?

Any other suggestions??

 

[ozgurakman]

Try to pull the clutch and start the bike. If it starts, probably neutral switch is broken.

 

[FinalImpact]

Does the N indicator light come on?

That may be irrelevant ^^... Can you go into some detail as to what was cut and tied? Point: there is battery voltage present at the switch, tying the INCORRECT wires to battery voltage could have damaged something else.

You can go into diagnostics and look at basic switch function. The bike will not run when in diagnostics. The reason I see value in this is to see if the ECM is getting a change of state when for example the side stand is moved up and down.

hint: key = OFF
hold BOTH buttons on meter, turn key on and hold BOTH buttons until Diag appears ~ 8-9 sec...

Sensor operation table:
01 : Throttle angle Fully closed position 15–17, Throttle fully opened position 97-100
03 : Differential pressure between air and intake pipe
05 : Air intake temperature (in Celsius)
06 : Cooling liquid temperature (in Celsius)
07 : Absolute speed (000 = wheel stopped). Check with rear wheel (0-999).
08 : Lean angle safety switch control - must be from 0.4-1.4 (upright) to 3.8-4.2 (horizontal).
09 : Battery voltage - track actual battery voltage.
20 : Side stand switch - displays ON or OFF. Retracted = ON, Extended = OFF
21 : Neutral gear switch - displays ON or OFF. Neutral = ON, In Gear = OFF

From METER DIAGNOSTIC MODE & ERROR CODES

 

[FIZZER6]

Miami, FL.

Say. No. More.


I was in Miami once. Watched someone get carjacked at 3am while leaving the bars.

 

[Motogiro]

Still no luck. I've looked everywhere and everything seems to be attached and working with the exception that the bike won't start. I read on the R6 forum that probably grounding down the neutral switch wire that is behind the engine block? How do I ground it down?

Any other suggestions??

Have you done the tests previously recommended to establish whether the safety switches are working?
As previously mentioned the bike should start even if the neutral safety switch is not engaged/working if the clutch lever is pulled in. The clutch lever switch must also be working and you can test it with an ohm meter.

There is no way of logically giving accurate information to help with this unless these tests are done. Even if you could pretty much guess from events that the starter interrupt/cutoff relay assembly is damaged you should not replace it unless you've exhausted doing the tests that have been recommended. Unless you can afford to throw money at the bike until it starts.

You can test the neutral switch by pulling the plug on the starter interrupt/cut off relay assembly and see if there is continuity to ground when the bike is in neutral. It will be the Blue wire. I suggest you disconnect the battery (negative lead) when doing these continuity tests.

 

[IPilot]

Ok so I guess there is some progress now. I grounded the neutral wire to the rear tire bolt with a jump cable, turned on the switch and there is the green light! Now the bike started. When on the center stand still grounded, I put in first gear and it worked but the light still on neutral green. When I disconnected the ground the bike turned off. So to you experts out there... Is this the starter relay that is damaged? I don't want to buy one if I don't need it...! I plugged in the neutral wire back to the engine block and went back to not starting.... What do you guys think?

https://vimeo.com/123268449


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[Motogiro]

Ok so I guess there is some progress now. I grounded the neutral wire to the rear tire bolt with a jump cable, turned on the switch and there is the green light! Now the bike started. When on the center stand still grounded, I put in first gear and it worked but the light still on neutral green. When I disconnected the ground the bike turned off. So to you experts out there... Is this the starter relay that is damaged? I don't want to buy one if I don't need it...! I plugged in the neutral wire back to the engine block and went back to not starting.... What do you guys think?

https://vimeo.com/123268449


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No...That sounds like good news! It sounds like you may have a bad neutral safety. Was the side stand also down or was it up? If the side stand is down and the bike thinks it in gear (no neutral) it shuts off the engine. So when you had the wire grounded the starter interrupt/cutout relay assembly said okay to start.

Just so you know we are not talking about the starter relay. That is a different relay. The unit we are discussing is the starter interrupt/cutout relay assembly. It is made up off 2 relays internally as well as other circuits.

It looks like your making good headway! Okay I saw the video and it looks like your side stand is in the up position. Make sure your side stand switch is working. You need an open and close change in continuity from up to down. Unplug the interrupt/cutout relay assembly and test the continuity on the side stand switch and while you have that ohm meter out test your clutch lever and neutral safety switch continuity.

 

[IPilot]

The side stand was up. The relay I am talking about is the one that goes on top of the battery which has the neutral wire connected to it and has two fuses. Fuses are good... I've read some other places that relay could be the problem.


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[Motogiro]

The side stand was up. The relay I am talking about is the one that goes on top of the battery which has the neutral wire connected to it and has two fuses. Fuses are good... I've read some other places that relay could be the problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you grounded the neutral safety switch wire and the bike started, it is not the relay on top of the battery. That wire goes to a module that is a logic control device called the Starter interrupt/cutoff relay assembly that is mounted under the left plastic pod by the seat. The relay on top of your battery is the actual starter relay and it is solely controlled by the ECM (your computer). The computer allows the starter relay to operate if the the interrupt relay assembly tells the computer everything is okay.

This why I'm trying to help you establish that all the switches are operational. There is a good chance the interrupt/cutoff module was damaged during the attempted theft but before you just go and get one, lets make sure the switches at the clutch lever, the neutral safety switch and the side stand are working properly. Do you have an Ohm meter/ Digital multimeter?

 

[Motogiro]

If you test and confirm all of your safety switches are working (Clutch lever, sidestand and neutral safety) there is a high probability, what I call the starter interrupt/cut out relay is bad because it was shorted when they cut your wires.

Starting circuit cut-off relay. Part #25 on the diagram at this site in the link below.
Relay Assy (5Vk-30)
5VK-81950-30-00

$31.24 at Ron Ayers (much cheaper that I thought it was going to be)

2008 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6XCL) Electrical 2 | Ron Ayers

Good luck!

 

[IPilot]

I'm getting a multimeter this afternoon. How do I test that all of the switches are working? In not an electrical guru...


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[FinalImpact]

Switches are opened or closed. Using a meter, the switch (disconnected from harness) tests by placing meter leads across the terminals and measuring "OHMs".
An open switch is the equivalent of holding the probes in the air. There is infinite resistance (i.e. no connection). While touching the probes together will indicate a short or very low resistance (i.e. continuity, as it can conduct energy).
- So, if you place the probes across a single pole switch and read its state, then change its state the meter should show for example:
Closed state: 0 - 5 ohms (closer to zero is better.
Open State: infinite or > 1,000,000 ohms ( > 1M ohm)

Do not use OHMs mode on ANY live circuit as it can damage the meter.

Hand Held Meters have many uses and so do test lamps. If you buy a meter also buy a 12V test lamp.
Note: Also grab some small alligator test leads.

We can talk about Diode and testing if you need to test the starter cut-out relay.

 

[FinalImpact]

Take a look at the first link. I think it covers some of the general uses. Follow second link if time permits.

From: Using hand held multimeter's, the basics....

Take a look, a link with the basics on how to use a hand held multimeter. Sometimes referred to as a DMM or DVM.
Measuring:
Volts, ohms, current (amps), diodes....

Using Multimeters Part 1

Using Multimeters Part 2, (on your vehicle)...