AIS Removal

[NorCal FZ6]

The greater challenge YOU MUST prepare for is having the 3 or 4 mm hex driver thats 10" long. I'm not kidding! Sadly I don't recall which is which - (top/bottom) the air box is one size and the throttle bodies to the engine are the other. A wobble TIP is VERY Helpful! Hint, you'll see, but essentially you reach from the LEFT of the bike to loosen the Right side clamps securing the air box couplers. You'll need some good pliers too. With the RIGHT tools, the bike is apart in 15min tops. With short stubby allen wrenches, expect it to take an hour! :Flip:

While your there, tighten the plug wire caps! :spank: :spank: :spank: :BLAA:

You can order long bits they exist or grab a 1/4" drive 3 and 4 mm socket, 8 to 10" extension and SAW OFF your Allen wrench leaving the straight shank, shove that into the socket. But you should be able to buy a hex bit drivers 3mm and 4mm to 1/4" drive.

haha - forgot the hose question? See all that plumbing in the picture, remove it and plug the hole in the air box. Some bikes want the solenoid connected and some don't.

Thanks! Right now working on exhaust, literally. Finally had my new benchmark results. Were in the ballpark I presumed, via the Dynojet. 86 hp. Stock set up including stock air cleaner, and including my TBS sync. I also might of hindered the test by putting the ceramic coated header and down cat/down pipe. Any who back to topic.... Please resume the normal programming.

 

[NorCal FZ6]

Well we got the smog plates in. Now to connect everything back up.... The pic and the Yami service manual really helped out. Just needed the opportunity to see what I was working with. Debating whether or not to remove all the spaghetti on the AIS....

We're using PRS smog plates the garage provided.

We got it... Time for a TBSync. Then the Power Commander with the "would be Two Brothers PCV map," until I can get it dyno tuned.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'd yank it!

FWIW: The upper boot clamps to the air box are the 4mm cap size. The lower boot clamps between the TB and head are 3mm caps.

 

[NorCal FZ6]

I'd yank it!

FWIW: The upper boot clamps to the air box are the 4mm cap size. The lower boot clamps between the TB and head are 3mm caps.

The caps I bought didn't fit. But i also bought rubber corks, just in case. So I rubber corked the hoses. Put everything together patched it up.
Did the TBSync.... I was amazed to see how off idle was and the throttle bodies after removing cat last week, and blocking the AIS.

Dinner is done. Now the power commander. Where's that pink wire go again? A little more R&D....

Question? For anybody in the "know" after the power commander is on do you have to remove it in order to do the Throttle Body Sync in the future? Or can you sync with it on? I would think you would probably have to remove it?

 

[FinalImpact]

The caps I bought didn't fit. But i also bought rubber corks, just in case. So I rubber corked the hoses. Put everything together patched it up.
Did the TBSync.... I was amazed to see how off idle was and the throttle bodies after removing cat last week, and blocking the AIS.

Dinner is done. Now the power commander. Where's that pink wire go again? A little more R&D....

Question? For anybody in the "know" after the power commander is on do you have to remove it in order to do the Throttle Body Sync in the future? Or can you sync with it on? I would think you would probably have to remove it?

Why do see a need to remove the PC for sync? you're making minor adjustments to air flow doing a sync and the ECM/PC don't look at this machine on a cylinder by cylinder basis so I'm not sure what you're concerned about? The allen cap size listed above was for those needing that 12" long allen wrench for the air box removal = 4mm.

 

[NorCal FZ6]

Why do see a need to remove the PC for sync? you're making minor adjustments to air flow doing a sync and the ECM/PC don't look at this machine on a cylinder by cylinder basis so I'm not sure what you're concerned about? The allen cap size listed above was for those needing that 12" long allen wrench for the air box removal = 4mm.

After thinking about the question, when finishing up the PCV. Your right... Why would you? One is a programmed a/f adjustment. And the TBS is a physical adjustment.

As for the air box, tightened and clamped.

Took it for a short spin after. Seems to get up a lot faster. It also has less engine braking. A little tuff to tell. It's colder than a witches tit out there. The PCV map I downloaded was for the TB slip ons and a stock air filter, as the map states. Still need to get dyno tuned to make it more precise. Although there maybe minimal tuning left. But I still need to compensate for;

1. AIS removal
2. Cat removal
3. Ceramic header, cans, down pipe and Y pipe.
4. K&N air filter.

Thanks for the assist!

 

[FinalImpact]

No worries. . . Sadly the temp is dropping fast here too. It dipped into the 30s and after skating on the pine needles and leaves the other day, I'm fine to park it for a bit and do some detail work.

I'm glad it's all coming together for you! :thumbup:

 

[ozgurakman]

I have 05 euro fz6 fazer and made this ais removal mod. Bike runs without jumper or solenoid. Thanks