AIS Removal

Extremity

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So I just completed my AIS removal - not just blocking off the pipe, but actually ripping out the entire system and using block off plates. I know there are a lot of posts on the subject but I have not seen any pictures and I actually had a REALLY hard time figuring out what to do due to the lack of information. Most of this will be really obvious to you guys, but some people (like me) don't know how to properly remove the battery box, air box, etc, the first time. After completing it, I figure it will only take somebody who knows where everything is about 20 minutes; it took me 2 hours :(

Before we start-

Here's a link to Roth Industry's AIS "smog plates" for the Fz6. It comes with everything you need, including a plastic piece to block off the port on the airbox you will no longer have a hose connected to.

Roth Industries — Smog Plates

A pic of what I received only three days after ordering!

smogplates.JPG


Second - MAKE SURE YOU READ THIS TO SAVE YOURSELF A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF TROUBLE

There is an electrical connection that both of the hoses from the plates your new smog plates are replacing end up at. It is very obvious, it's the "heart" of the entire thing, if you pull the hoses out you will know what I'm talking about. You can't leave this unplugged! I made this mistake and spent 45 minutes trying to figure out why my bike wouldn't start, and then I had to take everything apart again (and putting the airbox back on multiple times is a pita). You can buy caps at any hardware store or do what I did - wrap electric tape around the unused openings on the piece and just leave the electric plug connected, and stuff it somewhere out of the way. The piece has no more hoses connected to it, it's just it's own piece, so as long as it's not going to get in the way of anything you don't need to worry about having a super-secure seal on it.

I only have two pictures because I didn't event think about taking them until it was two late, but they should still help anybody new to this. Your first step is to take off the side fairings (if you have them) with an allen wrench, and then lift your tank. This isn't something you're going to be able to do while holding the tank up so bungie it so it stays vertical. I would suggest unplugging at least the top (white) electric connector from the bottom of your tank, it will be pulled very tightly.

This is a great time to check if your air filter needs to be replaced/cleaned by taking out the phillips screws on top of the airbox and setting it aside. It also makes putting the airbox back on after you are finished WAAAAY easier. There are two bolts connecting the airbox to the battery box, remember to undo those before trying to take it off. Aside from those two bolts it is only held in place by rubber clamps, you can try to loosen them with your allen wrench but it's a pain in the ass. Don't be afraid to put a little muscle into taking it off, you wont damage anything unless your rubber is EXTREMELY old and brittle, I've got an 05 that sits outside every day and had no problems, rip that sucker off.

While you are working with the airbox, unplug the hose coming out of the front-right (towards headlights, front brake side) of the airbox and cap it with the rubber piece you received with the plates, well applied tape, or whatever your personal preference is.

After the airbox is out (remember to remove the two bolts on the battery box) you can remove the battery box itself. I took the ground off, wrapped it in some electric tape, and just left the positive connected (mine is a pain to get off) and pulled the battery box as far down/to the side as I could. There is a bunch of stuff behind it/connected to the back of it, I don't know what any of it is called but there are two pieces with two connections on alternating sides (assuming whatever sends power to spark plugs). Don't be afraid to disconnect things, you will need to in order to get enough clearance (you will need a lot of room back there), just mark them along the way so you know where to plug them back in. Once you are able to pull out the entire battery box, set it aside.

(Note: This is a GREAT time to do the 2 lowbeam headlight mod! I had my cable ordered from BD43 that sat around for months, and I installed it in 30 seconds since I was already in here. Plan multiple mods and do them all at once!)

There is a rubber piece covering the top of the engine that acts as a heat shield. Underneath this are the hoses/parts you need to access. There is one port that you need to block on the left and right sides of the bike, and then the "heart" with the electrical plug at the top, near the connectors you would access to do the headlight mod. Don't be afraid to lift most of it out to get down there, it's pretty easy to put back and is very flexible.

Here is a picture of the area/part you will be accessing:

installed3.jpg


I didn't have a clean cloth so I covered up the openings to the engine with two trash bags to prevent getting anything in there - you really, really want to keep those internals as clean and dirt-free as possible. Be careful!

The red arrow points to my NEW smog plate that I had already installed. In place of that you will see an older plate with a hose protruding from it. Don't worry about taking the hose off, just use your allen wrench and take off the two bolts holding it down (you'll need to put some muscle into it to break them free, but I was able to do it by hand using the frame as leverage) and save them as you will need them for the new plates. Take it off, pull the hose out, install your new plate and make sure you secure it tightly. Repeat for the other side.

The blue arrow points to the area where you will find the electrical connector that needs to remain plugged in, and where all of the hoses meet. The gold lines show the general path/position of each hose.

Closeup of installed plate:

installed2.jpg


Once both plates are installed and the hosing is taken out, make *sure* that plug is still hooked up securely. Put everything back together carefully, as most of it needs to be in place before you can check to see if the bike will start. Take your time putting the rubber heat shield back into place, chances are it will have shifted to one side. Mine was protruding from the right side of the frame when I put it back and I had to take a few minutes shifting it back into place - not only does having it in the wrong position look bad, but you leave potentially crucial parts/connections vulnerable to very high heat. Don't rush it! Also take your time positioning all of the stuff you moved, it's a fairly right fit back there and if you just shove it in you might have a hard time getting the battery box back in.

If you can fit the battery box back in with ease and get those bolts down, you're pretty much done. I'd suggest firing up the bike ASAP - leave the tank unbolted, just pop the plug back in and rest it down. Make sure it runs and that you didn't forget anything before you get all of the cosmetic pieces put back on.

You're done! Unlike others I still experience significant popping from my exhaust but I think it's from running rich due to my Two Bros pipes and hollowing out my cat. I have noticed slightly better throttle response, however. Sorry that I didn't remember to take more pictures, I tried to make up for it by rambling with random details. I'm good at being descriptive, if anybody needs help finding something or has any other questions feel free to ask or PM me! Happy modding! :rockon:
 

McLovin

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I had to look up what an AIS is. Figured there might be others like me.

"AIS takes clean air from the air box where it is distributed and pulled (under vacuum) past the reed valves and in to the exhaust port where it mixes with
the unburned fuel and ignites @ 1200 degrees in the exhaust header. "

Possible outcomes: Less backfiring, minor weight-loss
 
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Extremity

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What the heck is AIS and why should I install one?

You already have one, you're not installing it, you're removing it. Taking it out will reduce your bike's weight a bit, prevent that popping you sometimes hear from your exhaust (mainly when you've installed an aftermarket exhaust), and some people feel that it increases throttle response a bit.
 

REO Scorpio

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Op,

Nice little write-up. I did mine last season and used Circuit 1 blockoffs. Definitely cleans it up a bit.

My decision was based solely on eliminating any misreads with the PCV and autotune, though.

Scorp

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Extremity

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Op,

Nice little write-up. I did mine last season and used Circuit 1 blockoffs. Definitely cleans it up a bit.

My decision was based solely on eliminating any misreads with the PCV and autotune, though.

Scorp

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Right, I forgot that, the most important benefit! As far as I know it is the only way to get a COMPLETELY accurate air/fuel reading for mapping or anything else involving the ECU.
 

afpreppie04

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Nice write-up, I did this a while back on my bike and fiddled around a while installing it. Fortunately I had heard beforehand that it won't start if you unplug the unit itself so I left it in there. The reason I took mine off was the noise it was making, even with the stock exhaust. I also used the Roth Industries kit, great workmanship on it.
 

Gbcinvisalia

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Does everyone have starting issues with the solenoid unplugged because my 06 starts up and runs without the solenoid plugged in, wierd.
 

REO Scorpio

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Does everyone have starting issues with the solenoid unplugged because my 06 starts up and runs without the solenoid plugged in, wierd.

I'll have to double check when I can, but I believe mine is unplugged as well still. I'll have to get back in there and look to be sure, though.

Scorp


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Extremity

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Does everyone have starting issues with the solenoid unplugged because my 06 starts up and runs without the solenoid plugged in, wierd.

Might be 2006+ doesn't need it plugged in? I have a 2005, if people post their bike's year I'm sure we can figure that out pretty fast. Mine would get power just fine, but when I tried to start it I got one click and then it would die for a second, like the bike cut itself off momentarily. As *soon* as I plugged it in she started right up no problem. Maybe there was some sort of ECU change/update after 2005?
 

REO Scorpio

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So I can't remember what I did with the solenoid; maybe wrapped it with electrical tape?

But here is everything as it is now. Been riding trouble free since early August with no codes, etc.

Mine is an 09.

Scorp



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fazil

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So what is the conclusion about plugging the ais plug?
Is it concerned with the year of the bike or something else?

I recently bought a 2005 Fz6N complete wiring harness from ebay and i saw that someone has cut two wires that should be routed to air cut off valve according to wiring diagram.

If i use this harnes for my naked mod, do i have to fix and plug it or just cover it with tape ?
 

mxgolf

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Great write up. I did mine a few months after installing my Leo Vince exhaust. I still think I will add a Power Commander due to the fact my gas mileage sucks and I'm sure that will help out tremendously. :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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Ummm, does anybody have pics of thee AIS removal smog bock plates installation? Help.

Really there is nothing to it. Well within your means I suspect.

google images "fz6 ais block off" and you'll see the plate. It goes here:
To the left of the TB intakes are two large hoses in cast aluminum at the top of the head. There are reeds under them. Unbolt and remove, install block-off plates. Tidy up and plug up air box after that.
picture.php
 

NorCal FZ6

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Thanks! A picture is worth a thousand words. :thumbup:plates are pretty straight forward. Once AIS is removed. Do you just cap off hoses? I have to re read thread.
 

Darth Fazer

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I've got Graves block-off plates on my '09 & whole mess removed with connector unplugged & dangling. Never had a problem starting. Seems to be only '06 & older.
 

FinalImpact

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Thanks! A picture is worth a thousand words. :thumbup:plates are pretty straight forward. Once AIS is removed. Do you just cap off hoses? I have to re read thread.

The greater challenge YOU MUST prepare for is having a 4 mm hex driver thats 10" long. I'm not kidding! the air box is 4mm and the throttle bodies to the engine are 3mm hex allen caps. A wobble TIP is VERY Helpful! Hint, you'll see, but essentially you reach from the LEFT of the bike to loosen the Right side clamps securing the air box couplers. You'll need some good pliers too. With the RIGHT tools, the bike is apart in 15min tops. With short stubby allen wrenches, expect it to take an hour! :Flip:

While your there, tighten the plug wire caps! :spank: :spank: :spank: :BLAA:

You can order long bits; they exist or grab a 1/4" drive 4 and 3 mm socket, 8 to 10" extension and SAW OFF your Allen wrench leaving the straight shank. Shove that into the socket. But you should be able to buy a hex bit drivers 3mm and 4mm to 1/4" drive.

haha - forgot the hose question? See all that plumbing in the picture, remove it and plug the hole in the air box. Some bikes want the solenoid connected and some don't.
 
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