Disadvantages of a Motorcycle MX trailer carrier hitch

[subaron]

I am planning on using it on a sedan for about 4000KM one way.

Anyone know of any disadvantages of using this type of trailer for a sports motorcycle? Other than the fact that the rear tire will have more mileage on it compared to the front?

Lightweight Portable Motorcycle MX Trailer Carrier Tow Dolly Hauler Rack Hitch | eBay

Also, does anyone know if this requires a separate permit/plate for Canada and/or US? From what I gather a proper trailer requires a licence, but nothing is said of this type of arrangement!

 

[Ohendo]

Neat concept.... Can't tell the quality of the construction, welds, etc. from the listing but looks ok.

When RV's tow a car in this manner it's called a tow-dolley. No type of trailer registration or plate is needed, but I'm pretty sure all of the US states require the vehicle being towed to have a valid plate and registration.

Edit: I've bought from this seller before, they sell decent quality stuff. Their feedback is excellent too, so I would trust the product.

But as far as disadvantages of one wheel on the ground go, the site below outline some of them with this type of towing, while promoting their solution:

http://www.fatzusa.com/tow-hitch.htm

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I am planning on using it on a sedan for about 4000KM one way.

Anyone know of any disadvantages of using this type of trailer for a sports motorcycle? Other than the fact that the rear tire will have more mileage on it compared to the front?

Lightweight Portable Motorcycle MX Trailer Carrier Tow Dolly Hauler Rack Hitch | eBay

Also, does anyone know if this requires a separate permit/plate for Canada and/or US? From what I gather a proper trailer requires a licence, but nothing is said of this type of arrangement!

It would NOT require a trailer tag on it in the US (it already has a tag on it and even if it didn't, that set up is NOT considered a trailer).

That product (not specifically that one) has been made literally for decades and generally is safe. The only issue I would have is the rear wheel is turning (obviously), thus turning the sprockets and the transmission.

I don't know if the transmission would get enough oil (as its NOT pumped thru the engine as the engine isn't running) and would very cautious.

A way around it for certain, is to remove the chain from the rear sprocket (loosen the wheel, pull the chain off the sprocket, then tighten the axle back up).

Most importantly, now, TIE, bungee, etc, the chain to the swing arm making sure IT DOES NOT GET JAMBED UP IN THE REAR WHEEL/SPROCKET while underway.

With the tranmission now disconnected, the only wear and tear is on the rear wheel bearings, some suspension (as you hit bumps it works). Tire wear is about non existant as its not braking or accelerating from the bikes own engine/brakes.

I'd also bring a tire repair kit/compressor JUST IN CASE you pick up a nail (or something) in the rear tire of the bike as it'll be tracking in the middle of the lane where oil, debris, crap likes to collect...

 

[Botch]

For a 4,000-km one-way trip, tire wear will be low. Just get the chain disconnected and out of the way, as Townsend said. :thumbup:

 

[marke14]

I am baffled that this is even possible. Good call TownsendsFJR1300 on the chain/transmission tip.

Seriously, how do they keep the bike upright? It just uses a strap on each handlebar down to the tow-hitch thing?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I am baffled that this is even possible. Good call TownsendsFJR1300 on the chain/transmission tip.

Seriously, how do they keep the bike upright? It just uses a strap on each handlebar down to the tow-hitch thing?

That's all you need to secure the bike to it. IMHO, use a NEW SET of tie downs and also, if you have room, a second set(back ups).

If you get a set of 6" soft ties (their really short, no hooks, just a nylon loop on each end), wrap it around the lower triple/fork, then attach another set of tie downs (their back up should one tie break) to the hitch carrier. If you look at the first picture, you can see the soft tie downs on both bikes(especially the FJR). Both bikes don't have regular handle bars and with the fairings in the way, the soft ties wrap around the lower triple tree and fork(make sure you don't pinch anything), clear everything, then regular tie downs secure to the trailer. Tieing down around the lower triple/forks is also a bit more secure, your not pulling on the handle bars (that can rotate) but a major, VERY SECURE, frame componant.

Re-check the tightness after a couple of miles. And backing up will be a major bitch, try NOT TO BACK UP as the bike will try to JACK KNIFE..

Below is a picture of my last homemade trailer with my old Goldwing and FJR on it. Their both securred with the above mentioned tie downs, I do double them up farther back on the frame of the bike to the trailer (again, as back up)

Note:Their just on the trailer to go back in the garage as hurricane Charlie was coming and I was raising them as high as possible should the water level rise...

 

[FinalImpact]

Scott covered the obvious, w/out the engine running the trans will burn up. I'd say before you buy it confirm you can actually get the chain secured out of the way of every thing. Although if you need more room you could remove the sprocket w/5 nuts.

As for tie down travel, I have seen fork seals leak from being tied down.
Good luck if you choose this option. Is it worth it to rent a trailer??

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott covered the obvious, w/out the engine running the trans will burn up. I'd say before you buy it confirm you can actually get the chain secured out of the way of every thing. Although if you need more room you could remove the sprocket w/5 nuts.

As for tie down travel, I have seen fork seals leak from being tied down.
Good luck if you choose this option. Is it worth it to rent a trailer??

+1 on removing the rear sprocket but something probably easier and just as effective, remove the plastic chain guard. I think there's 3 screws and a plastic pop in retainer up front. Tie, duct tape, etc, the chain to the swing arm out of the way.

I know they make front tire/bike retainers that don't require ANY TYING DOWN (they grab the front tire), but their for trailers with a flat floor and aren't cheap (definitly wouldn't work in this case nor even on my trailer (with no floor).

Just as a side note, I've towed with the above trailer (rack/ramp, tied to actual perimeter frame of the trailer), for approx 8 hours a day, with the bikes cynched down without issue. It doesn't need to be bottomed out. IMHO, half ways to 2/3's is plenty (fork compression).

I do, for overnight, when NOT UNDERWAY, release the straps abit (**make sure you re-tighten them before you leave) just to get the pressure off the front end..

Should you have a BMW (cantelever ft end-SP?) or can figure out where to cynch down the FZ at the lower fork legs , the front suspension would have NO pressure on it and actually function while cynced down. The tabs on the fork legs (where the fender mounts would probably work but does appear to be too low and NOT offer enough support to keep from swaying.

A BMW we took 850 miles to Deals Gap was securred this way, tied down without compressing the suspension on the above trailer. The attachment point was fairly high with the CL front end thou...

BTW, my neighbor, back in the LATE 1970's, used a very similar set up for transport. I don't remember the bike he towed but I re-call we just removed the chain with the masterlink...

 

[FinalImpact]

What if you turn the bike around and lock the bars with tie straps from the bars to the grab rails??? May be easier and just as effective tow wise.

When trailered my dirt bike I had block I threw between the front tire and the fender (fenders mount high and to the lower triple), thus the front could be sucked down and not bounce. Not to practical on our low mount fender.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What if you turn the bike around and lock the bars with tie straps from the bars to the grab rails??? May be easier and just as effective tow wise.

When trailered my dirt bike I had block I threw between the front tire and the fender (fenders mount high and to the lower triple), thus the front could be sucked down and not bounce. Not to practical on our low mount fender.

That would work but you do need a fair amount of tension from the bike to the hitch attachment.

I personally would be very leary about tieing the front end to go straight when towing it backwards. Should it be off just slightly and it drags the front tire again just slightly off kilter, it'll eat that front tire up real quick..

Something else I just thought of as well, when the tow vehicle is turning(especially sharp), the bike, being towed backwards, DOES NOT have a pivot (the steering head) point.

 

[subaron]

Thanks for all the replies. Very insightfull. I am going to try to look into some kind of trailer setup or truck rental.

I liked this setup, because I can store it inside the car trunk when I parked the car somewhere.