Senior Design: Design and Build a Trailer to be Pulled Behind a FZ6

ice

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Something you will have to look at closely is proper wheel size and bearings.
Preferably with grease fittings.

Looks like you are off to a good start.
Let us know how it works out.
 

bmccrary

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I have test rode it. I have issues with the Ujoint. Need to get a better ujoint that doesnt have as much slop in it. In addition I have excess movement in the pins holding the Ujoint to the trailer and hitch. So the whole trailer kinda rocks side to side. Still pulls straight, but rocks and inturn moves the bike around too.
 

RJ2112

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I have test rode it. I have issues with the Ujoint. Need to get a better ujoint that doesnt have as much slop in it. In addition I have excess movement in the pins holding the Ujoint to the trailer and hitch. So the whole trailer kinda rocks side to side. Still pulls straight, but rocks and inturn moves the bike around too.

Do you need to have quick disconnects on both sides of the U Joint? Seems like it's integral to the trailer...... either weld it into the neck, or press fit, or put it in with a threaded arrangement... use the pin to keep it from backing out, rather than as the load bearing portion of the connection.

Why not go straight to an automotive U Joint? You could also source a good one from anywhere that supports PTO equipement like used on farm implements. One that has roller bearings for the pivots should remove the slop at that point.

Looks good! :thumbup:
 

ShadowChillaGin

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All I can say is WOW!!! I want one!! What was the total cost on this project if I may ask?? New shock for the bike, stator upgrade for added current draw, and everything else?? That totally rocks!!
 

bmccrary

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All I can say is WOW!!! I want one!! What was the total cost on this project if I may ask?? New shock for the bike, stator upgrade for added current draw, and everything else?? That totally rocks!!

2600.00... that is bike upgrades, tooling costs, material, parts and paying the welder.

-bryan
 

bmccrary

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Do you need to have quick disconnects on both sides of the U Joint? Seems like it's integral to the trailer...... either weld it into the neck, or press fit, or put it in with a threaded arrangement... use the pin to keep it from backing out, rather than as the load bearing portion of the connection.

Why not go straight to an automotive U Joint? You could also source a good one from anywhere that supports PTO equipement like used on farm implements. One that has roller bearings for the pivots should remove the slop at that point.

Looks good! :thumbup:

I changed the bolts that hold the ujoint to the trailer and hitch today. (Purchased shorter ones) When putting in the the new hardware I put a bit of electrical tape around the bolt, just one pass across it. Most of the tape at the end pushed out, but I tightened the heck out of it and low and behold, no more movement in the pins. Now the only movement is in the ujoint, which is much less than before. We will see how it pulls tomorrow on the way to the expo.

-bryan
 

RJ2112

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I changed the bolts that hold the ujoint to the trailer and hitch today. (Purchased shorter ones) When putting in the the new hardware I put a bit of electrical tape around the bolt, just one pass across it. Most of the tape at the end pushed out, but I tightened the heck out of it and low and behold, no more movement in the pins. Now the only movement is in the ujoint, which is much less than before. We will see how it pulls tomorrow on the way to the expo.

-bryan

You might try a bit of heat shrink tubing vice the tape..... it'll end up about the same thickness, but cannot fray as readily. Good job, regardless.

I'm really looking forward to the video, as well.

You've gotten a couple of rides in, now..... does it meet your principal goals? Niggling little things with the U Joints seem small potatoes compared to the whole concept.... do you think it will/does tow well, and tilt into corners without compromising the bike as you had envisioned?
 
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