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Is there a lazy mans way to grease swing arm pivot?

Nelly

Nelly

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As the title says,
I am due to do this but it looks like such a pain in the arris to strip the rear end.
Basically I want to know if its possible to keep the shock in place.
I was thinking of using a long drift to knock the swing arm bolt through and then reverse the process with the the swing arm bolt.

Cheers
Nelly:thumbup:
 
As soon as you remove the Pivot Bolt, the swingarm will drop in some manner, no matter how you try and support anything else, that shock spring is under a fair bit of compression once bolted in. I cant think of a way of doing it, without unbolting the shock...it's a bugger, i have had this "fight" with myself before!

:(
 
Is there room to add a zerk fitting while you're in there? That way you can just pump some fresh grease in and not have to take it apart the next time.
 
Wolfman said:
As soon as you remove the Pivot Bolt, the swingarm will drop in some manner, no matter how you try and support anything else, that shock spring is under a fair bit of compression once bolted in. I cant think of a way of doing it, without unbolting the shock...it's a bugger, i have had this "fight" with myself before!

:(
Click to expand...
What about a trolly jack to support the swimg arm?
If I use a drift can I grease all that needs to be greased or do you physically need to drop the bearings?

Nelly
 
Hellgate said:
Is there room to add a zerk fitting while you're in there? That way you can just pump some fresh grease in and not have to take it apart the next time.
Click to expand...
Yeah that would be very nice indeed. All my previous bikes have had grease nipples as standard. I have never fitted one, so not sure whats involved?

Nelly
 
I tried to find a easy way to do this on the FZ6...no dice. Had to take everything down to grease the bearings. Not hard, just takes time.
 
Goop said:
I tried to find a easy way to do this on the FZ6...no dice. Had to take everything down to grease the bearings. Not hard, just takes time.
Click to expand...
Cheers Goop,
I am going to try and leave the exhaust in situ though.
Will tackle it next week (weather permitting). Will also take tons of pictures.

Nelly
 
But the rear shock at the bottom is primary place to lube! Its got needle bearings too and doesn't have the best seal to keep water and debris out.

Now if you were to remove the S/A and drill and tap an area that's easily accessible (hint I've done this to lots of joints) you could flood the interior with grease as mentioned. The zerk does not need to be centered in the middle just easy to access and make sure when S/A pivots it won't be sheared off by striking something. Also confirm its depth doesn't contact the bushing inside

They do make self taping zerks but they're not friendly and a tap doesn't cost much.

Admittedly I've never had mine apart but ping 4drfocus he's the swing arm dude and could likely tell us if this a "Go or No-Go" add on.
 
FinalImpact said:
But the rear shock at the bottom is primary place to lube! Its got needle bearings too and doesn't have the best seal to keep water and debris out.

Now if you were to remove the S/A and drill and tap an area that's easily accessible (hint I've done this to lots of joints) you could flood the interior with grease as mentioned. The zerk does not need to be centered in the middle just easy to access and make sure when S/A pivots it won't be sheared off by striking something. Also confirm its depth doesn't contact the bushing inside

They do make self taping zerks but they're not friendly and a tap doesn't cost much.

Admittedly I've never had mine apart but ping 4drfocus he's the swing arm dude and could likely tell us if this a "Go or No-Go" add on.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that,
I won't be fitting a Zerk this time around as I won't get one in time. I'd like to know if it's possible though?

Nelly
 
Work = yes, Possible! YES!

As for not having one, grab a socket and head to earth moving construction site, those rigs are loaded with Zerks! Just don't get Shot! :eek:

Then again any Real 4X4 should have them hanging out too! lol
So will a hardware store, auto shop, frame and suspension shop. . . It'll cost you 30 min tops if you have a drill and tap.
 
I have a drill, don't have a tap. I have carried out some tapping work before. I was 15 and at school lol.
Seriously obtaining mechanical items where I live in the country is a real PITA.
My wifes uncle has an automotive store geared toward tractors, generators etc.
I will ask him if he can get me a couple. He would also have the Tap & Di set to.

Having said that, I live in the Irish equivalent of Red Neck country. so 4x4 are plenty abound.
Where is my socket set lol.

Nelly
 
This may or may not work but if you dont want to buy a tap or cant, find a bolt with the same threads as the zerk you plan on useing, next grind the bottom few threads off so that it tapers up about 5 or 6 threads (basicly just make the bottom threads wedge shaped) then take a band saw or hack saw and cut a x directly centered on the bottom of the bolt and kapow you got yourself a tap, ive done this a few times and it works about 75% of the time if you dont have one. It works better if you have a grade 8 bolt. But it all depends on what you are trying to tap and how hard of material it is.

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
That's a cool solution. I will not try that on FZ6 purely because I haven't done it before. Getting a tap won't be an issue.
Do you think it will need a zerk on both ends of he swing arm?

Nelly

Sent from my HTC Desire S
 
Ive never sceen what it looks like on the inside of it so im not sure if its necessary to have 2 but i would say that it would probably be better though. It would allow the grease to get exactly where it needs to be without over greasing, and believe it or not more bearings fail due to being over greased vs under greaseing them

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
ChevyFazer said:
Ive never sceen what it looks like on the inside of it so im not sure if its necessary to have 2 but i would say that it would probably be better though. It would allow the grease to get exactly where it needs to be without over greasing, and believe it or not more bearings fail due to being over greased vs under greaseing them

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Over - greased caused bearing Failure? I think not. Everything likes lube. Name 5 mechanical bushings/bearings that like it dry and live long. :rolleyes:
The only exception is something so tight that pumping grease into it displaces the seals which is there to protect it by literally forcing the seal out. Hopefully that's what you mean or I'm going to push the Thanks -10 button! :D:eek::D

PS a single Zerk will do the job as the grease injected will always take the path of least resistance filling the empty void until its forced to go through the caged needle bearing. You can add two but it's pointless.
 
FinalImpact said:
Over - greased caused bearing Failure? I think not. Everything likes lube. Name 5 mechanical bushings/bearings that like it dry and live long. :rolleyes:
The only exception is something so tight that pumping grease into it displaces the seals which is there to protect it by literally forcing the seal out. Hopefully that's what you mean or I'm going to push the Thanks -10 button! :D:eek::D

PS a single Zerk will do the job as the grease injected will always take the path of least resistance filling the empty void until its forced to go through the caged needle bearing. You can add two but it's pointless.
Click to expand...


That is exactly what im talking about and i didnt mean it like bearings like to be dry i meant it like pumping half a tube a month will cause more damage then not greasing at all. But there are also plenty of.bearings out there that are dry and can last forever, plus there are sealed bearings wich never have to be greased.
Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You got to be ****in' me ! Get off your lazy Ass and do it right . It's not that hard at all . I've done it 3or 4 times, I bet there is little to no grease at all on the pivot shaft. Time to Man up !
 
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