Rear wheel alignment... or not?

[RDly]

I didn't expect to find a problem with my FZ6 in this area but it does focus the mind!
I adjusted my chain yesterday and aligned the adjuster marks each side exactly.
When I went to ride it I found it was oversteering on right handers, especially nasty when in the UK negotiating roundabouts!!
I examined the adjusters again and they were spot-on. I then decided to take a steel rule and measure the distance from the centre of the wheel spindle on each side to the end of the box section swinging arm, this revealed a discrepancy of 3mm thus resulting in the bike 'crabbing' around right handers!!!!

I must say left handers were superb but that's not the point here.

Has anyone else noticed this to be a hit or miss affair?

 

[Norbert]

yeah the adjuster marks aren't known to be accurate. they are good for side-of-the-road type emergencies.

 

[Andz]

Use a vernier on the adjuster bolts.

 

[Norbert]

Use a vernier on the adjuster bolts.

i had to google what that word meant! lol
i actually just bought one of these! this is a good idea!

 

[RDly]

Use a vernier on the adjuster bolts.

That wouldn't work in my case as the adjuster bolts are equal lengths.

What I suspect is either the end plates or the internal adjusters are slightly different to eachother hence giving the wrong results. I'll have a closer look when I have a moment but for now the steel rule is the way to go.

Thanks for your time

KEEF

 

[Norbert]

That wouldn't work in my case as the adjuster bolts are equal lengths.

What I suspect is either the end plates or the internal adjusters are slightly different to eachother hence giving the wrong results. I'll have a closer look when I have a moment but for now the steel rule is the way to go.

Thanks for your time

KEEF

I think andz meant that you measure from the end of the bolt to the lock nut.
if they are the same length the alignment is fine.

here's another method, using a string:
SportRyder's Wheel Alignment Method

but i have read many times on this forum that the adjuster marks are pretty much useless.

 

[RDly]

I think andz meant that you measure from the end of the bolt to the lock nut.
if they are the same length the alignment is fine.

here's another method, using a string:
SportRyder's Wheel Alignment Method

but i have read many times on this forum that the adjuster marks are pretty much useless.

You may have misunderstood my reply... the adjuster bolts are equal distance behind the adjuster plates. I have tried a similar method to the one you linked above using alloy tubing instead of fishing nylon and the rear wheel was definately offset compared to the front. The steel rule showed a definate 3mm difference offset in spite of the adjusters and bolt lengths so as I said above I will look into this further and report back when I have figured out what's wrong!

Thanks for taking the time to reply :thumbup:

 

[Humperdinkel]

Use a vernier on the adjuster bolts.

Genius , pure genius :thumbup:

 

[yamahaha]

I think andz meant that you measure from the end of the bolt to the lock nut.
if they are the same length the alignment is fine.

here's another method, using a string:
SportRyder's Wheel Alignment Method

but i have read many times on this forum that the adjuster marks are pretty much useless.

my wheel is perfect as i can't tell any tire wear over 3k miles, but my bro's 600rr tire is almost gone. using this method, are you talking about measuring the distance from the end of the bolt to the first lock nut? if that is the case can't you just count the threads on the bolt for distance?

for what its worth i've never had any problem using the alignment indicators and i've had many bikes.

 

[Fred]

The best adjuster tool is made with a coat hanger and a zip tie.

Straighten the coat hanger. Put a 90 degree bend in one end, so you have a tall L shape.

Wrap the zip tie around the vertical part of the L, and pull it tight. Cut away most of it, and cut at an angle so the remaining zip tie is a point.

Now to use it.

Position the short leg of the L so that it's pointing at the axle's center. The long leg of the L should be along the swingarm.

Slide the zip tie along the long leg of the L until it points at the center of the swingarm pivot bolt.

Now, go to the other side of the bike and use the tool to compare the distance. Once you get both sides to the same distance, the bike should track straight unless your frame is baldy tweaked.

Fred

 

[lonesoldier84]

The best adjuster tool is made with a coat hanger and a zip tie.

Straighten the coat hanger. Put a 90 degree bend in one end, so you have a tall L shape.

Wrap the zip tie around the vertical part of the L, and pull it tight. Cut away most of it, and cut at an angle so the remaining zip tie is a point.

Now to use it.

Position the short leg of the L so that it's pointing at the axle's center. The long leg of the L should be along the swingarm.

Slide the zip tie along the long leg of the L until it points at the center of the swingarm pivot bolt.

Now, go to the other side of the bike and use the tool to compare the distance. Once you get both sides to the same distance, the bike should track straight unless your frame is baldy tweaked.

Fred

Who are you and why are you so amazing? I rarely see one of your posts that does not make me take a moment to appreciate its sheer quality. That might be overstating it a touch, but you get the idea.

You strike me as a very seasoned rider. It is my opinion that we are lucky to have you on this board. I can't rep you again until I spread it around apparently, so this post will have to suffice. Or I COULD make another account and rep you from there, but you're not THAT amazing....

 

[brad81987]

Motion Pro also makes a chain alignment tool. It ensures the chain and sprocket are perfectly in line. Assuming your rear sprocket is on correctly, if the sprocket is perfectly aligned with the chain, the tire should be good too. If not, then you have to pick the lesser of two evils- line up the tire at the expense of chain and sprocket wear or line up the chain and sprocket at the expense of handling...........

 

[Andz]

Genius , pure genius :thumbup:

I can't take the credit for that, my dealer suggested it

 

[joe1971]

I think andz meant that you measure from the end of the bolt to the lock nut.
if they are the same length the alignment is fine.

here's another method, using a string:
SportRyder's Wheel Alignment Method

but i have read many times on this forum that the adjuster marks are pretty much useless.

This is the method I use, it's very accurate

 

[Goop]

Motion Pro also makes a chain alignment tool. It ensures the chain and sprocket are perfectly in line. Assuming your rear sprocket is on correctly, if the sprocket is perfectly aligned with the chain, the tire should be good too. If not, then you have to pick the lesser of two evils- line up the tire at the expense of chain and sprocket wear or line up the chain and sprocket at the expense of handling...........

+1 I have one of these and it's pretty slick for something so simple. I like Fred's method too. Very clever! I'll try it out.

 

[FuriousGeorge]

If you have a Harbor Freight near you look for the exact same tool there. Can't remember how much I paid, but it was cheap.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=66798