Chain whizzing noise

[jeanjesuit]

As noted earlier, check free play once hooked up and BEFORE you replace the air-box- "Do-overs" suck...

I'm thinking I'll just snake the cable out without pulling the aribox. I'm feeling lazy today.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That'll work.. If that "cable holder" doesn't jamb you up.

If so, just cut that off and you'll have access to the cable adjuster on the left side of the bike.

 

[jeanjesuit]

That'll work.. If that "cable holder" doesn't jamb you up.

If so, just cut that off and you'll have access to the cable adjuster on the left side of the bike.

I don't even know why I had put that thing back. After a good 10 minutes of struggle it's now out for good. The sleeve looks a tad longer on the new cable and after adjusting the central screw the core peaks out about the same on the old and new. What I don't get is the old cable had started to fray and the lever adjuster was at its further out position while the new one doesn't even fit. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't even know why I had put that thing back. After a good 10 minutes of struggle it's now out for good. The sleeve looks a tad longer on the new cable and after adjusting the central screw the core peaks out about the same on the old and new. What I don't get is the old cable had started to fray and the lever adjuster was at its further out position while the new one doesn't even fit. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

I've had my bike since 2009- No maintenance the 4,500 miles prior to me getting it. I replaced the cable at about 24,000 miles.

After I got the bike, the cable/chain, etc was always lubed/serviced way BEFORE
the manual calls for. I happened to trip up on the fraying (just by "feel") and ordered a new cable.

I hacked up the old one to see what failed. The tight metal curve, at the top of the cable, IS the failure point.
There's a bunch of friction there, especially if not maintained.

As for the rest of your issues, I suspect it's simply a cheap knock off part. There is NOTHING like OEM, no
guessing, no do-overs.

Short of accessing the cable, the adjustment can't be any easier. (Your NOT doing anything wrong)

If there's not enough adjustment, it's the "new" cable, it's not made to exact spec's...

 

[jeanjesuit]

As for the rest of your issues, I suspect it's simply a cheap knock off part. There is NOTHING like OEM, no
guessing, no do-overs.

Short of accessing the cable, the adjustment can't be any easier. (Your NOT doing anything wrong)

If there's not enough adjustment, it's the "new" cable, it's not made to exact spec's...

Well I kind of figured out the issue but I can't really find out how to fix it. What's happening is the clutch isn't disengaging, whether I'm pulling on the lever or pushing on the slave lever. With the bike on a rear stand and in first gear, the rear wheel will move and the speedo will read 6-7 mph. I can't stop the wheel with my foot nor can I slow it down.

I checked posts on this forum (here and there as well as others but can't seem to find a solution. The clutch cover arrow and the slave lever dot line up perfectly and the cable is of little importance since pushing the slave lever by hand all the way accomplishes basically nothing. The rear wheel doesn't slow down at all. It stalls instantly without the stand.

Engine oil is new (less than a thousand miles) and I didn't touch the clutch, its cover or anything else around it. Just did a coolant flush, plugs, air filter, lubed here and there. I guess that's what's called a sticky clutch but that'd be a pretty extreme case and it'd have nothing to do with the cable, which is the usual culprit. I'm at a loss (again...).

EDIT: Checked engine oil level and it's fine. I tried what you suggested somewhere else:

Simply remove the oil filler cap and pull the clutch lever in while looking in the hole.

You should see about 1/8" of movement of the pressure plate OUTWARD If you do, it's working fine.

And there's no movement whatsoever. I guess there's my problem?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

First, to clarify, on the CC and in FIRST GEAR, pulling the properly adjusted clutch in, WILL the REAR BRAKE STOP the rear wheel and the bike still idle (as if stopped at a stop sign)?

If NOT, see below:


Quote: "And there's no movement whatsoever. I guess there's my problem?"

Sounds like that IS the problem. When you pull the lever at the handle bar, is it pulling the lever at the engine?

I gather you have the correct amount of play at the cable?

(There is a clutch release bearing inside the case BUT if it worked before, it's VERY likely NOT your issue)
(Too much a coincidence).

Double check both ends of the cable, mid section adjuster (post some pic's please).

That new cable may be stretching, (it would be a lot for a new cable), but that part is all you changed out re the clutch
and unless in-correctly installed, IS very likely your issue...

You SHOULD see the clutch plates moving when activating the clutch lever, period. Is the clutch arm moving?



.


.

 

[jeanjesuit]

You SHOULD see the clutch plates moving when activating the clutch lever, period. Is the clutch arm moving?.

The cable isn't connected as of now, but I assume pushing the slave lever should do the exact same thing as pulling the clutch lever in right?

I'm pushing by hand the slave lever all the way in and nothing visibly moves while looking through the oil fill plug. The arm is rotating as normal, at least on the outside.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suspect you don't have enough leverage by hand.

I assume you did NOT remove the engine "end" lever at all CORRECT?

Here is a pic I just shot of mine- The clutch is adjusted properly, the lever is at REST.

Are YOUR alignment points lined up?
(Again, this is at REST, clutch lever NOT pulled in-when pulling the clutch in, the cable movement @ the the engine is approx 1/2", 13mm's)

 

[jeanjesuit]

I assume you did NOT remove the engine "end" lever at all CORRECT?

I did remove it when trying to troubleshoot. I put it back on and the alignment points line up at rest.

Here is a pic I just shot of mine- The clutch is adjusted properly, the lever is at REST.

Are YOUR alignment points lined up?
(Again, this is at REST, clutch lever NOT pulled in-when pulling the clutch in, the cable movement @ the the engine is approx 1/2", 13mm's)

Thanks for the pic. It's fairly easy to push on and travels the full 13mm. The resistance seems to be coming only from the spring.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I did remove it when trying to troubleshoot. I put it back on and the alignment points line up at rest.


Thanks for the pic. It's fairly easy to push on and travels the full 13mm. The resistance seems to be coming only from the spring.

OK, you should NOT have removed that arm, NO reason to. That's your issue now.

The shaft that the arm attaches/slides down onto apparently moved and needs RE-CLOCKING. IE, the lever arm needs to be set a tooth (or several) further COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

The shaft inside the engine case that pulls the clutch apart apparently MOVED.

**Re-set that arm on the splines so slight resistance IS on the lever when the MARKS are aligned**.

That should get you going...


Do you have a shop manual?

.

 

[jeanjesuit]

OK, you should NOT have removed that arm, NO reason to. That's your issue now.

The shaft that the arm attaches/slides down onto apparently moved and needs RE-CLOCKING. IE, the lever arm needs to be set a tooth (or several) further COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I did not touch the shaft itself. I only removed the engine-side slave lever to change its position on the threads atop the shaft, then reverted it back to normal after I saw no improvement. The shaft stayed put (although it has a little vertical play). I didn't remove it nor rotated it (it doesn't rotate further than allowed by the slave lever even without the spring).

I have the service manual (2007 edition, for the NHG and others).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's all that's left.

Unless all of a sudden the under cover (don't know your year bike) clutch release bearing failed:
Part #7: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W CLUTCH Diagram

Please confirm that with light pressure on the lower clutch arm, "the alignment marks line up".

 

[jeanjesuit]

That's all that's left.

Unless all of a sudden the under cover (don't know your year bike) clutch release bearing failed:
Part #7: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W CLUTCH Diagram

Please confirm that with light pressure on the lower clutch arm, "the alignment marks line up".

Confirmed.

I forgot to mention that I had a certain stickiness to the clutch lever before, which I attributed to the cable failing condition. I had to push it forward by hand back to its resting position but the clutch itself didn't seem to be affected. Maybe it's related to today's ailments.

So your advice is to open up the clutch cover and check that everything is set to specs? I shouldn't have to drain the oil if I put the bike on the side stand, right?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

NO, do not pull off the clutch cover...

Re-clock that lower arm. It's out of sync with the shaft that goes into the engine..

That shaft, apparently right now, does not have all the play out of it, thus NO clutch plate movement. Once it's taught again, it should work.

I've read of maybe TWO of those clutch bearings failing in 8 years here, very, very rare.


BTW, you can pull the clutch cover without draining the oil (but don't for this issue)

 

[jeanjesuit]

Re-clock that lower arm. It's out of sync with the shaft that goes into the engine..

The shaft rotation is only about 60 degrees, which doesn't change with the lower arm position (by lower arm you mean the slave lever, whatever the cable attaches to right?). If so I'm sorry but I don't quite get it

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

We're talking right now ONLY about the lower lever/shaft...

Pull the lever off the shaft. Turn the SHAFT CLOCKWISE till snug.

Now, set the arm back on (your working against the lower return spring) with the marks dead on or one notch MORE clockwise.

If correctly clocked, with some pressure, marks will line up (as earlier pictured).

Then with the clutch cable hooked up, the clutch should work correctly.


NOTE: I just checked mine, I CANNOT BUDGE that lever with two hands (disengage the clutch).


.

 

[jeanjesuit]

Cheers for the detailed explanations. I'll try right away and will post updates later.

 

[jeanjesuit]

Pull the lever off the shaft. Turn the SHAFT CLOCKWISE till snug.

Now, set the arm back on (your working against the lower return spring) with the marks dead on or one notch MORE clockwise.

It worked. Thank you so much, I'll be back to lane splitting to work tomorrow rather than sitting in traffic. On the rear stand the wheel is perfectly still with the lever pulled in and first gear engaged (note: that Bihr aftermarket cable works perfectly in the end).

I don't know how it didn't occur to me the free play in the shaft was abnormal and that I obviously wouldn't be able to disengage all the clutch springs by hand. It'd have been a much faster procedure had I a circlip pliers on hand though.

A new chain, a set of sprockets and new tires will be in next Friday (I'm letting the mechanics do it this time). Brake and forks oil change are next on my plate.

Thanks again Scott!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your welcome!!

Glad you didn't yank that clutch cover!!

Safe riding!

 

[heath_AU]

Not a cheap chain. In fact it is one of the best - DID VX2 Gold X-ring