Chain whizzing noise

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, someone's been dinking under there...

That squarish aluminum piece(atop the engine), where your pic shows it JUST touching on the corner, it SHOULD FIT square around that engine part. (BTW, there's only one pic there)

That's why I do ALL my own work...

Have fun!

 

[jeanjesuit]

Yep, someone's been dinking under there...

That squarish aluminum piece(atop the engine), where your pic shows it JUST touching on the corner, it SHOULD FIT square around that engine part. (BTW, there's only one pic there)

That's why I do ALL my own work...

Have fun!

The joys of buying second hand with little experience

You mean the non shiny piece in the background? That's indeed barely touching. Is the corner of the loose plastic closer to me supposed to be held by something? On the diagram it simply looks pressed by pieces on top, but there's barely anything on my bike to keep it in place...

I see three pictures in the album but here's a direct link to each in case:
http://i.imgur.com/EQx7rem.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mAUL5t5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CMnXk2F.jpg

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

 

[jeanjesuit]

At first i wasn't sure why you had reposted the pictures...
Thanks again! They're worth a thousand words, one might say.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cause that's how that piece SHOULD fit!

 

[jeanjesuit]

Cause that's how that piece SHOULD fit!

I meant at first I thought you had literally just reposted my pictures

 

[jeanjesuit]

Hi guys, I made a fun discovery tonight.

After flushing the coolant, which had a nice dark green colour (see picture), losing the screw holding the top of the radiator (anyone got its dimensions?), being denied easy access to the coolant overflow tank by the frame sliders, and getting gunk all over my fingers by removing the lubed but dying clutch cable, I got to the airbox, where I found the air filter looking a bit grim (see picture).

What really concerns me is what I found next to it. There are dark red sludge rings around the air intakes (pic 1, pic 2), which could be poorly applied sealant or combustion byproducts or engine oil or... I'm not sure and I don't know how bad it actually is. None of the pictures I found online had anything close to this. Any thoughts? (and about that bolt?)

Cheers.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That coolant was due to be changed, it should be lighter (but I've seen much worse).

Which screw, part #25: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST RADIATOR HOSE Diagram
It'd be an M6 x 1 thread pitch, length, going to have try a couple different one, (IDK off hand)..

As for the air box, I don't remember if Yamaha put sealer there but it certainly isn't "spit out" from the engine.
As long as it's hardened up, (not loose and runny) you should be fine.

The new air filter fits VERY tight. I use a very light coating of grease on the edges to slip it in and for the air box cover as well..


If there's any doubt about your clutch cable, here's mine (maintained VERY well for the last 20,000 miles), which I noticed a little binding:

 

[jeanjesuit]

Thanks Scott. I'll just leave the airbox like that then, everything seems normal.

The S2 radiator is a bit different, but you pointed the right bolt, #25. I also miss #16. I can't remove #50 for the life of me. I'm not sure where I could find #16 but apart from that I'll be good.

Lastly, don't worry, the new clutch cable is already waiting for me to install it!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That is an S1 parts fisch link I posted. (first style gauge package).

Part #16, the rubber sleeve, NEEDS to be there or the metal will wear thru over time...

There is NO part #50 on that page, so not sure about that.

Here's the main parts link that I use, just plug in your info and peek about.
It IS for the US models ONLY, but should suit most your need: . Yamaha Motorcycle Parts


As an FYI,
for the years of the bikes(for the US and for this parts manual),
2004-2006 are considered S1's (first gauge package, non-removable rear passenger pegs)
2007-2009 are considered S2's (newer gauge package, removable rear passenger pegs)

Some other countries title the bike when it's sold. So it can be sitting for 5 years and be labeled a much
newer bike. That's fine BUT when ordering parts, a PIA as there's two generations of FZ6'.



BTW, for the clutch cable replacement, the air box has to come off as it's pretty tight sneaking the cable "bends" thru the upper/front frame rails..


.

 

[jeanjesuit]

That is an S1 parts fisch link I posted. (first style gauge package).

Part #16, the rubber sleeve, NEEDS to be there or the metal will wear thru over time...

There is NO part #50 on that page, so not sure about that.

For the refs I was referring the part numbers linked in my post from the S2 bike. Mine is a 2007 "S2" NHG model but the radiator assembly is exactly the same as the US S2 version so no issues with linking your site.

BTW, for the clutch cable replacement, the air box has to come off as it's pretty tight sneaking the cable "bends" thru the upper/front frame rails...

Literally just finished doing that. While going through the frame was annoying, the main hassle was unclipping the cable guide tucked between the frame and the airbox. I managed to do it without removing the bottom part of the airbox but it took me overall about one hour (including cleaning and lubing), much worse than I thought.

I checked the "red sludge" I posted about last night and it's firm. Probably factory sealant indeed.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I cut that cable guide off at least 8 years ago...

With it gone, should you have to do a mid cable adjustment, there's NOW room to pull that cable down on the left side without lifting the tank..
It ain't going anywhere.. You can still sneak in there and cut it (when and if you want)...

Lil nicer with a new cable, eh?

 

[jeanjesuit]

I cut that cable guide off at least 8 years ago...

With it gone, should you have to do a mid cable adjustment, there's NOW room to pull that cable down on the left side without lifting the tank..
It ain't going anywhere.. You can still sneak in there and cut it (when and if you want)...

I hesitated... But the clip is so bent it'd give easy in case I'd need access.

Lil nicer with a new cable, eh?

Which I could say... Just done with spark plugs. I'll put everything back together tomorrow and hopefully it'll fire right up. I'll post a picture of the plugs I took out later... They were burnt to a crisp.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A little bit of dielectric grease on the plug caps, where the rubber touches the valve cover, makes installing much easier.
You can actually hear/feel the cap click onto the plug..

Did you use the stock, OEM plugs?

 

[jeanjesuit]

A little bit of dielectric grease on the plug caps, where the rubber touches the valve cover, makes installing much easier.
You can actually hear/feel the cap click onto the plug..

How did I not think of this... Anyway seems like mine clicked well (several clicks actually) and the rubber on top of the cap sits rather flush with the valve cover. Any tip to improve the seal?

Did you use the stock, OEM plugs?

Yes I did. That's what the old plugs looked like:



They had about 30k miles in them I estimate (service records missing for a good while). And they were tight as hell. New CR9EK in now. Hopefuly it'll start right up once the bike is back in one piece.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For 30,000 miles, they don't look bad...

As for the grease on the caps, the rubber hardens up over time and heat cycles.

When I changed mine out, the caps were tight coming off. A lil grease on there, pop right on!


*There was a member (maybe 6 months ago) that swapped plugs for new ones and got a new vibration in the engine.
I suggested he do the grease thing, sure enough, one plug cap wasn't on fully and now with the grease, was.

Fixed his vibs!


Your bike with those new parts should feel a bit different..



.

 

[jeanjesuit]

*There was a member (maybe 6 months ago) that swapped plugs for new ones and got a new vibration in the engine.
I suggested he do the grease thing, sure enough, one plug cap wasn't on fully and now with the grease, was.

Fixed his vibs!

A good thing to keep in mind.

Your bike with those new parts should feel a bit different...

I hope. If fired right up... And the new chain kit is coming in shortly. But I can't put on the clutch cable for the life of me. The sheath seems perfectly in place but the core is too short. I have to remove the lever to install the cable on both ends but the clutch won't fully disengage. I guess this has something to do with the mid cable adjusters. I put the exactly like the old cable but I guess I must have done something wrong. Had to take the car to the office

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I guess this has something to do with the mid cable adjusters[/B]. I put the exactly like the old cable but I guess I must have done something wrong.

Is the cable OEM?

IF so, simply tighten, so the mid-cable adjuster is SHORTER. Your old cable stretched and setting the new cable OUTER sheath THE SAME WILL make the new cable (inside) seem too short.

Also, before you button up and the clutch cable is hooked up, adjust the mid-section adjuster NOW. You will get a little stretch initially.

*I set my tension so there's approx 3 turns out at the upper lever, then adjust the mid adjuster so lever play is within spec's. The
reason for this is so I can turn the lever screw in 3 turns(bottomed out) and remove the cable easily for maintenance / lube...

 

[jeanjesuit]

Is the cable OEM?

IF so, simply tighten, so the mid-cable adjuster is SHORTER. Your old cable stretched and setting the new cable OUTER sheath THE SAME WILL make the new cable (inside) seem too short.

Also, before you button up and the clutch cable is hooked up, adjust the mid-section adjuster NOW. You will get a little stretch initially.

*I set my tension so there's approx 3 turns out at the upper lever, then adjust the mid adjuster so lever play is within spec's. The
reason for this is so I can turn the lever screw in 3 turns(bottomed out) and remove the cable easily for maintenance / lube...

It's not OEM but I laid it aside the one that was on the bike and everything seemed to match up well, and online reviews were stellar.

I guess I shouldn't have played with the mid-cable adjuster before trying it on, but I recall only spreading apart the two nuts a few millimeters. Well I'll pull the cable out try again tonight.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not unusual for aftermarket knock off parts... But yes, turn the mid-cable adjuster all the way in.

Hopefully, that'll be enough..

As noted earlier, check free play once hooked up and BEFORE you replace the air-box- "Do-overs" suck...