aceman1741
Member
Can anyone give me advice if there is a correct way of downshifting gears without making the gears sound clunky or noisy, or is it just me....help
Downshifting gears?
- Thread starter aceman1741
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Raid The Revenge
Super Member
Here you go:
A simple idea is to hold in the clutch while braking. When you get to about 25 KM/H, you downshift. You won't get any 'clunk' if you shift while stopped.
-Bad idea! Don't do this. I just got kicked by Claud AND DefyInertia for this. UNCLE! UNCLE!
The guoikkkrekk sound you hear when you downshift is the strain of spinning gears being set by the clutch at a high speed.
A simple idea is to hold in the clutch while braking. When you get to about 25 KM/H, you downshift. You won't get any 'clunk' if you shift while stopped.
-Bad idea! Don't do this. I just got kicked by Claud AND DefyInertia for this. UNCLE! UNCLE!
The guoikkkrekk sound you hear when you downshift is the strain of spinning gears being set by the clutch at a high speed.
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bluenova
In reality these shift points are crap. Maybe it's good to follow them while running the engine in (first 1000 miles), but after that you want to be shifting up when the torque starts to run off (around 11000 RPM), and down shifting at around 4000.
The key to getting the down shifting smooth is to bring the rev's up to match the engine speed, so if the revs are down to 4000 you want to bring in the clutch and bring the revs up to 6000 change down the gear and engage the clutch (all done very quickly with practice). You should NOT be changing down all the gears at a stop or at 15 mph as the manual says as this is very dangerous. If you need to get away quickly to get out of danger your RPM's should be at the start of the power band (6000 RPM). You will not be able to escape if you are in the wrong gear or not in the power band (6000 - 11000).
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Here's another thread discussing this topic http://www.600riders.com/forum/new-riders-q/422-downshifting-question.html
Good luck :thumbup:
Good luck :thumbup:
i always try to pre-load my shifter before shifting up or down and that reduces a lot of the clunking and the shifting is a lot quicker and smoother.
Pre-load: put pressure on the shift lever in the direction that you want to shift before pulling in the clutch.
Pre-load: put pressure on the shift lever in the direction that you want to shift before pulling in the clutch.
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bluenova
That's a good tip between 2nd to 6th, but I wouldn't recomend between 1st and 2nd.
H
HavBlue
In reality these shift points are crap. Maybe it's good to follow them while running the engine in (first 1000 miles), but after that you want to be shifting up when the torque starts to run off (around 11000 RPM), and down shifting at around 4000.
You will not be able to escape if you are in the wrong gear or not in the power band (6000 - 11000).
I wouldn't say they were crap and it would clearly depend on the rider and just how they are riding. I wouldn't say shifting at 11,000rpm is any better in that you "will" be sucking up a lot of fuel for what?
As far as escaping goes..... Well, you wouldn't need to escape if you had picked up the hazard before it got to the point you were in trouble. Additionally, it's not always speed that allows you to escape. Rather, it may just be the riders ability to understand and act upon those options that are available to be used in the act of escaping. Speed or the gear you are in is only one of them.
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bluenova
True you can poodle along at 2000 - 4000 RPM and when I'm cruising I'm normally doing about 4000 - 5000, but for accelerating this bike performs best in the upper end of the RPM range and for optimum acceleration you want to be shifting just before the torque starts to let up, which is about 11000. Why would you buy a bike with the power and then not use it? That's like buying a top of the range computer to write a letter???? Sure you might write the occasional letter, but you are going to be doing a lot more with it too, or you've wasted your money.
As far as escaping goes..... Sorry mate, you can turn left or your can turn right, but you're not going to go anywhere fast unless you twist the throttle and get instant acceleration, things can happen in split seconds that even the most competent of riders will not see coming, so it's AWAYS good to be in the power band. I'm not saying that braking is not going to be the option of choice at the time, but you can brake at any RPM where as you can only accelerate away when in the power band.
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HavBlue
This bike as you call it performs best in the rider's desired mode plain and simple. This isn't to say it doesn't have the ability to do better but for the specific rider, they don't care as it does exactly what "they" want it to do and that's all that counts as it is their bike and their money. I live in Corvette town and I will tell you there are thousands of Corvettes that will never see triple digit speeds but they sure are popular and people still buy them for the 60,000 or so they cost. Again, their money and their desires.
Now, as far as acceleration goes, regardless of the speed or rpm you are traveling at, if the bike goes faster from that point you are in effect accelerating. Granted, you may be taking forever to do so but you are accelerating none the less. Speed or time to speed is but one option in the proverbial bag of tricks that all bikes have. It will "never" be the only option and for me, I think it is often overrated as there are other options many riders fail to use when avoiding a hazard. Furthermore, if you could keep that rider from panicking, locking up the brakes, failing to see the out and a host of other options they may have avoided the incident that took them out but they don't and this is why we have accidents. They often travel too close, fail to comply with the posted speed, look everywhere but where they should and are having some much fun with the other riders in their group they missed that cage that was legally entering the motorway. Riders often bring many of the problems they face on themselves. This isn't to say cagers are faultless, only to say they will almost always be blamed when in fact it was the rider that put themselves in a position to get hammered in the first place.
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bluenova
HavBlue, you are talking about many points there, many of which I agree with. I am simply saying that it is important to be in the power band at all times because then you are in full control of the bike and are able to use it to it's full potential. You sound like quite an intelligent person and one who has been riding for some time, which is why you are leaving me so perplexed as to why you would not agree with that point? Being in the wrong gear and waiting till you come to a stop (or near stop) before changing down though the gears does simply not many sense.
stevesnj
Junior Member
I just rode my bike on the highway for the first time. Im at 5500 rpm at 65-67 mph everyone else on par with that?
DefyInertia
Former '04 FZ6 Rider
Are you familiar with blipping the throttle on downshifts?
Shifting should put very little strain on the bike regardless of the revs if done properly. The only thing to watch out for is causing your rear to lock up or shifting into too low of a gear (causing the bike to exceed redline). At first, I wouldn't worry about any noises (unless they are really odd or loud) as you're probably just not used to them.
And NO, you should not be downshifting in accordance with the manual; it was not written with traffic or performance in mind.
This would be bad advice for anyone interested in safe defensive driving and/or for anyone looking to exploit their 600cc sportbike. I don't think preserving your transmission and/or operating the bike as quietly as possible should take precendent over proper riding techniques. Just my $0.02
Shifting should put very little strain on the bike regardless of the revs if done properly. The only thing to watch out for is causing your rear to lock up or shifting into too low of a gear (causing the bike to exceed redline). At first, I wouldn't worry about any noises (unless they are really odd or loud) as you're probably just not used to them.
And NO, you should not be downshifting in accordance with the manual; it was not written with traffic or performance in mind.
Here you go:
A simple idea is to hold in the clutch while braking. When you get to about 25 KM/H, you downshift. You won't get any 'clunk' if you shift while stopped.
The guoikkkrekk sound you hear when you downshift is the strain of spinning gears being set by the clutch at a high speed.
This would be bad advice for anyone interested in safe defensive driving and/or for anyone looking to exploit their 600cc sportbike. I don't think preserving your transmission and/or operating the bike as quietly as possible should take precendent over proper riding techniques. Just my $0.02
DefyInertia
Former '04 FZ6 Rider
From a safety standpoint, the MSF would disagree.
Please tell me when it's advisable to pull in the clutch while braking ONLY to downshift all the way to 2nd at exactly 15.5MPH and ONLY downshift into 1st once completely stopped. Sounds like you've made yourself into a sitting duck by using this method.
OneTrack
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In my personal experience, it was "being in the powerband" and using acceleration that got me into my 2 bike accidents in the first place. Better brakes/tires and utilizing more than 2% of my (then) teenaged brain would have prevented both accidents.
Now that I'm in my (supposedly ) 'mature' years, I have diffused more potential "accidents" while riding my FZ6 by braking than I ever have by accelerating.
That and my noisy Scorpions, which do seem to stop me nodding off now that I'm in my dotage years.
Now that I'm in my (supposedly
) 'mature' years, I have diffused more potential "accidents" while riding my FZ6 by braking than I ever have by accelerating.That and my noisy Scorpions, which do seem to stop me nodding off now that I'm in my dotage years.
That and my noisy Scorpions, which do seem to stop me nodding off now that I'm in my dotage years.
Speaking of which, OneTrack, when are you going to come screaming past the hangar so I can hear those things in action?
(OT I know - sorry)
aceman1741
Member
Hey, thanks all for giving me such great advice. Especially the intelligent one. I appreciate it. I'm actually new to riding this type of bike. My riding experience is dirt bikes and enduros and this is actually the first street racer I have purchaced, and boy what a racer it is. My question was asked because I heard the clunks and didn't like the noise or understand it. I have changed gears (downshifting) from a stop position to actually bumping up the throttle a bit to slip it into gear better. And I say the latter performs better and slides into gear better than at a stop. Upshifting is good for me especially when the rpm's are at a higher rev. I have managed to do both methods, shifting with clutch and without and I'm telling you that without the clutch is fast and smooth but only when you are accelerating very fast but when you just cruise, I prefer the clutch.
This site is very informative and I'm very happy with all the great advice everyone has. It's gotten to a point that I get on this site two three four times a day.... I even have done mods to the bike in which most of all of you have done but I have the bike now for only 3 months, I'm actually waiting for my carbon scorpions to come in the mail :Flash: Dual headlight mod (low and high beams), pazzo shifting levers, puig smoked windscreen, 2007 front fender modified to fit 2006 fz6, and so on. I am so pleased with my bike, it's awesome. Now to learn actually how to ride efficiently and the correct way, I appreciate the help......
aceman
This site is very informative and I'm very happy with all the great advice everyone has. It's gotten to a point that I get on this site two three four times a day.... I even have done mods to the bike in which most of all of you have done but I have the bike now for only 3 months, I'm actually waiting for my carbon scorpions to come in the mail :Flash: Dual headlight mod (low and high beams), pazzo shifting levers, puig smoked windscreen, 2007 front fender modified to fit 2006 fz6, and so on. I am so pleased with my bike, it's awesome. Now to learn actually how to ride efficiently and the correct way, I appreciate the help......
aceman
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OneTrack
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OneTrack
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Speaking of which, OneTrack, when are you going to come screaming past the hangar so I can hear those things in action?
(OT I know - sorry)
Heh heh....I was just about to do a "fly-by" last week after going over the #2 Rd bridge....Just as I was about to let it rip in 2nd gear, I spotted the local Mounties on the side of the road in front of MacDonalds.
Now that would have been a ticket worth framing. :rockon:
(Equally OT....sorry)
OneTrack
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Hey, thanks all for giving me such great advice. Especially the intelligent one. I appreciate it. I'm actually new to riding this type of bike. My riding experience is dirt bikes and enduros and this is actually the first street racer I have purchaced, and boy what a racer it is. My question was asked because I heard the clunks and didn't like the noise or understand it. I have changed gears (downshifting) from a stop position to actually bumping up the throttle a bit to slip it into gear better. And I say the latter performs better and slides into gear better than at a stop. Upshifting is good for me especially when the rpm's are at a higher rev. I have managed to do both methods, shifting with clutch and without and I'm telling you that without the clutch is fast and smooth but only when you are accelerating very fast but when you just cruise, I prefer the clutch.
This site is very informative and I'm very happy with all the great advice everyone has. It's gotten to a point that I get on this site two three four times a day.... I even have done mods to the bike in which most of all of you have done but I have the bike now for only 3 months, I'm actually waiting for my carbon scorpions to come in the mail :Flash: Dual headlight mod (low and high beams), pazzo shifting levers, puig smoked windscreen, 2007 front fender modified to fit 2006 fz6, and so on. I am so pleased with my bike, it's awesome. Now to learn actually how to ride efficiently and the correct way, I appreciate the help......
aceman
I had a bit of difficulty at first performing smooth shifts on my FZ6. I was "jerking" terribly with every upshift, until I realized how sensitive the throttle and clutch was...I was shutting the throttle down just slightly too soon before disengaging the clutch, which would cause the bike to jerk. The clutch does not have a lot of "takeup" compared to many other bikes....it engages fully very quickly after the initial "bite".
Practice, practice, practice. Once you get the throttle, clutch and shift moments coordinated, you'll wonder what the problem was. :Sport:
penguinbiker8
stuntin like my daddy
Being in the wrong gear and waiting till you come to a stop (or near stop) before changing down though the gears does simply not many sense.[/QUOTE
i completley agree with that, nicely said
i completley agree with that, nicely said
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