Smooth up-shifting

[Bogdanphb]

Hello guys,

Been riding my FZ6 S2 for a while now, I started to get used with what she wants and how to ride it smoothly, love it.
At the moment gear shifting got my attention and I started practicing till I reach the best version of it.
However, when I go from the 1st gear to 2nd I can't seem to find a solution to change without having that clunky sound. From 2nd till 6th I can do it smoothly with no sound whatsoever.
I tried the exact same technique I use for other gears, preload the shifter before pulling the clutch and blip the throttle, with no success.

Any suggestions, can you change without the clunky sound ?

Thank you!

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I'm not sure I know what you are describing. I know almost every bike I hear sounds like they are being slammed when put in first at a stop. I have switched to neutral and coasted, then back to second when it turned out I didn't have to stop and THAT often sounds loud. Maybe if you are "granny shifting" (taking a long time to go between gears) between the two? I don't see many people riding bikes doing much of that though.
Normally I shift from 1 to 2 at about 5k rpms on a slowish or average acceleration, and it is pretty smooth. Anything below I might get some complaints from the bike, but I don't recall them being clunky sounding. More like the engine saying I don't have enough torque for this at this low speed and rpm.

 

[Bogdanphb]

I'm not sure I know what you are describing. I know almost every bike I hear sounds like they are being slammed when put in first at a stop. I have switched to neutral and coasted, then back to second when it turned out I didn't have to stop and THAT often sounds loud. Maybe if you are "granny shifting" (taking a long time to go between gears) between the two? I don't see many people riding bikes doing much of that though.
Normally I shift from 1 to 2 at about 5k rpms on a slowish or average acceleration, and it is pretty smooth. Anything below I might get some complaints from the bike, but I don't recall them being clunky sounding. More like the engine saying I don't have enough torque for this at this low speed and rpm.

Yes, that’s the sound I’m trying to describe. The sound you hear when switching from neutral to first gear, that clunk; but from 1st to 2nd could be louder. I tend to believe I’m not granny shifting, or maybe I don’t know what’s the momentum and speed of that but from 2nd gear on everything is quiet and smooth.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Another thing I’ve noticed is right after I completely release the clutch, for a fraction of seconds sometimes I can shift gears, up or down, without to pull the clutch, it’s like the clutch is slipping. Would you think this could be because of the cable ?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Can we get some video?

The smoothest way to shift is without the clutch because it requires coordination between the throttle (unloading the drive train) and the movement of the shift lever (moving it just as the drive train unloads). Best to practice on shifts that aren’t 1-2.

The gear ratios between 1-2 are the widest and as noted above, the longest. These two factors expose a sloppy technique.

The loud “clunk” is a result of long throw of the dogs between 1-2 in the transmission - completely normal.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Going into first, from a dead stop, I've found pulling in the clutch lever for at least 5 seconds seems to help. The trans should stop spinning fully (clutch disconnecting the engine from the box).

Also, I have my idle set lowish at about 1,050 RPMs, This seems to lessen the clunk as transmission parts are not spinning as fast.
You will however have a lil more engine braking.

A well lubricated clutch cable also helps as well as installing the slightly longer engine end, clutch lever arm.
The lever lessens the pull a little and also widens the friction zone.

.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Going into first, from a dead stop, I've found pulling in the clutch lever for at least 5 seconds seems to help. The trans should stop spinning fully (clutch disconnecting the engine from the box).

Also, I have my idle set lowish at about 1,050 RPMs, This seems to lessen the clunk as transmission parts are not spinning as fast.
You will however have a lil more engine braking.

A well lubricated clutch cable also helps as well as installing the slightly longer engine end, clutch lever arm.
The lever lessens the pull a little and also widens the friction zone.

.

I recently lubricated the clutch cable.
I’ll give it a try, see how it works. Thank you!

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Clutch cable is a good point to look at. It may need adjustment. As the cable is used and ages, it stretches allowing the pull on the lever to not be as effective. That spin wheel on the lever is to be able to tighten a little as needed. There's an allowance for play as you pull the lever before you should feel the tension being pulled. It's not much. I think it was just enough you could fit a penny in the gap created.
If you are not in the U.S., I'm not sure what this translates to in metric measurement off hand. I'm sure the information on adjustment could be found though. Probably right on this sight.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Clutch cable is a good point to look at. It may need adjustment. As the cable is used and ages, it stretches allowing the pull on the lever to not be as effective. That spin wheel on the lever is to be able to tighten a little as needed. There's an allowance for play as you pull the lever before you should feel the tension being pulled. It's not much. I think it was just enough you could fit a penny in the gap created.
If you are not in the U.S., I'm not sure what this translates to in metric measurement off hand. I'm sure the information on adjustment could be found though. Probably right on this sight.

I adjusted the clutch lever a while ago to have the friction zone where I wanted it to be. I’ll check on it again, see if I can see any changes. Thank you.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Hi guys,

I kept practicing and I found out there are times where I can change 1st-2nd without any clunk.
I believe it’s just a matter of practice, I’ll focus on smooth shifting for a while and I’ll find that sweet spot eventually. Thank you for your help. Ride safe!

 

[Ryan T]

Some time ago I believe this same issue came up and someone stated that if you preload (putting slight upward pressure on the gear shifter BEFORE pulling in the clutch) the clutch, it will reduce that loud clunk. I found that this technique makes a huge difference. The 1st to 2nd gear clunk was crazy loud and annoying until I read about preloading the clutch. Let me know how it works out for you.

Hello guys,

Been riding my FZ6 S2 for a while now, I started to get used with what she wants and how to ride it smoothly, love it.
At the moment gear shifting got my attention and I started practicing till I reach the best version of it.
However, when I go from the 1st gear to 2nd I can't seem to find a solution to change without having that clunky sound. From 2nd till 6th I can do it smoothly with no sound whatsoever.
I tried the exact same technique I use for other gears, preload the shifter before pulling the clutch and blip the throttle, with no success.

Any suggestions, can you change without the clunky sound ?

Thank you!

 

[Bogdanphb]

Thanks for the tip Ryan. I’ve started to preload the gear shifter pedal before pulling the clutch, it makes a difference but sometimes (quite often) it slips from 1st to 2nd gear. The moment I apply pressure on it, if I’m at low revs (5-6k) it slips in the gear with no clutch whatsoever. What should I check to fix that problem?

I lubed the clutch cable but something has stopped it from lubing throughout. I did not see any lube dropping at the end of it, although I used the lube and the tool for that correctly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have the same lubing issue... With an in-line adjuster (tucked in behind the frame) it doesn't help trying to force (spray) lube thru the cable.

I've sprayed from both ends, no luck.. I ended up using some 10wt oil, in a small container with a "needle" tip.
Shove the tip into the cable end and slowly work it in moving the cable.

.

 

[Ryan T]

Not sure there is a fix for that outside of applying less upward pressure. Even now, after years of doing it this way, I will prematurely go into 2nd. No big deal since that was the plan anyway. As for the lube not coming out the other end, I've always lubed both ends to ensure complete coverage. Is the lube coming out at the midpoint? the cable is not one long continuous cable, there is a connector midpoint.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never seen it wet there with lube but do believe it hampers pressurized lube from passing.

With the metal/rounded upper end (at the lever), it's hard to get a good seal vs a regular cable end where
the lubing tool grabs considerably better and doesn't leak..



.

 

[Bogdanphb]

Not sure there is a fix for that outside of applying less upward pressure. Even now, after years of doing it this way, I will prematurely go into 2nd. No big deal since that was the plan anyway. As for the lube not coming out the other end, I've always lubed both ends to ensure complete coverage. Is the lube coming out at the midpoint? the cable is not one long continuous cable, there is a connector midpoint.

I’ll check when I lube it again. Thanks for making it clear with the gear shifter. I’ll see what works best.