Xtra shims + spacers for R6 fork + caliper mod?

[Norbert]

Hello Dear Friends, :hug:

I have decided to do the R6S fork and caliper mod to my 06 Fazer.

I want those better brakes like you 07+ people have!! :drool:

You folks are so awesome, um...., does anyone have extra shims and spacers left over? :innocent: :innocent:

After diligently :rtfm: 'ing. I believe these are the part numbers:
98126A797 -axle shims
93475A280 -caliper spacers

It's not that I'm cheap. (Well I am kinda.) I just don't want a bunch of these in my basement that I won't use ever again.

 

[CrazyBiker]

I may have the fender tabs. I will see if I can find them.

 

[Norbert]

I may have the fender tabs. I will see if I can find them.

Thanks man! Those are the hardest to find! :thumbup::thumbup:

My sucking up seems to have worked......

 

[Airhead]

I have 3 of the axle shims and about 30 caliper spacers. I can mail them to ya and my only requirement is that you send whats left to the next modder.

 

[Norbert]

I have 3 of the axle shims and about 30 caliper spacers. I can mail them to ya and my only requirement is that you send whats left to the next modder.

Awesome! I will PM you my address. :cheer::cheer:
And I will definitely pass the shims/spacers forward.


Did most people who did this mod also raise their forks by 3mm?
I read that doing this was a good idea....

 

[CrazyBiker]

Check the consolidated doc I have posted. 12mm recommended to compensate for ride height and better turn in.

 

[Norbert]

A few more questions:
Should I get new pads with the new brakes?
The reason I'm asking is that the older pads may have been worn in the pattern of the old rotors, so new pads would eventually make a better fit.

Also, I read that the R6 mod makes for a less smooth ride.

The only complaint that I have is that while the r6 mod did indeed give me some better diving and cornering caracteristics, it's shorter suspension travel took alot of the smoothness out of the ride, compared to stock.

R6 and FZ6 Ride Review - Sportbikes.net

Is this the consensus?

 

[CrazyBiker]

New pads will be good. Everyone usually does the pads, and SS lines mod with the R6 forks. I will let you know about the fender tabs today.

 

[Airhead]

Did most people who did this mod also raise their forks by 3mm?
I read that doing this was a good idea....

Mine are set at 5mm. I would say that you should move them up a little at a time, test ride, adjust, repeat till you find a setting you like.:thumbup:

 

[Norbert]

Sorry for being dense, but I'm thinking 5mm is closer to the FZ6 geometry and 12mm is closer to a streetfighter?

I guess I want it to be planted in the turns, but still stable on the highway.

In other words, I don't want to end up like this guy:

The only complaint that I have is that while the r6 mod did indeed give me some better diving and cornering caracteristics, it's shorter suspension travel took alot of the smoothness out of the ride, compared to stock.

R6 and FZ6 Ride Review - Sportbikes.net

 

[CrazyBiker]

Some points from the mod thread:

R6 forks are 5mm longer but springs are much stiffer so you need 5+5mm of drop.

Sportrider also recommends 10mm drop but then their settings are a bit hard. Try 5mm and see otherwise increase 2 mm everytime.

 

[Norbert]

Ok.....

So what prevents the forks from being twisted and installed at an angle?
Please see the attach pic to understand what I mean.

 

[Norbert]

Yes, I am reading a bunch on the subject from the service manual and the sportbikes.net thread.
But.....another question:

Using the spacers from McMaster, does the front wheel axle bolt go all the way into the new R6 axle?
I've read that not all threads are used. But that may have been under a different setup.
If not all threads are used, what are the new torque settings?
Definitely don't want that thing flying off.....

 

[RJ2112]

Ok.....

So what prevents the forks from being twisted and installed at an angle?
Please see the attach pic to understand what I mean.

Because both fork legs are mounted to a common central shaft, the legs will be in the same plane with respect to the steering stem. They don't have to be parallel..... but you do that alignment, when you finish the install.

That 'truing' process I've talked about... leave everything except the lower triple clamp loose, bounce the front end through the range of motion, then clamp everything else up tight. If both shafts 'pivot' around the same reference point, they will align for least resistance from that configuration.

 

[Norbert]

Because both fork legs are mounted to a common central shaft, the legs will be in the same plane with respect to the steering stem. They don't have to be parallel..... but you do that alignment, when you finish the install.

That 'truing' process I've talked about... leave everything except the lower triple clamp loose, bounce the front end through the range of motion, then clamp everything else up tight. If both shafts 'pivot' around the same reference point, they will align for least resistance from that configuration.

By everything do you mean the axle pinch bolt(s) and axle bolt as well?

 

[RJ2112]

Yes. Any other point that would hold the legs' position, needs to be loose, so the sliding elements will align. Including the fender mounts.

Pump it up and down as described, full stroke at least 6 times. (You have to grab a fist full of front brake to keep from rolling the bike around.)

Once that is done, each attachment point that 'bridges' between the legs, contributes to stiffening the alignment. Tightening them all to proper torque will 'fix' the alignment just completed.

 

[Norbert]

Yes. Any other point that would hold the legs' position, needs to be loose, so the sliding elements will align. Including the fender mounts.

Pump it up and down as described, full stroke at least 6 times. (You have to grab a fist full of front brake to keep from rolling the bike around.)

Once that is done, each attachment point that 'bridges' between the legs, contributes to stiffening the alignment. Tightening them all to proper torque will 'fix' the alignment just completed.

1) tighten everything hand tight
2) take bike off front stand and center stand
3) loosen everything but the lower triple clamp (which is still at hand tight)
4) straddle the bike, hold front brake in or move front wheel towards a wall.
5) bounce front end up and down +6 times
6) torque everything down. maybe have a friend do it while holding the front end still.

Is this correct? ^^
I assume the lower triple is tight enough to prevent the front end from dropping and slamming into the fender, but it's not torqued to specs.

Sorry I don't know the exact procedure here. I couldn't find it in the Haynes manual or service manual.

 

[csschlag]

Thanks for the caliper shims OMG_WTF. If any one else needs these caliper shims, please pm me and I'll forward them as OMG_WTF did for me. :thumbup: