Worth changing harness?

sifz6

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Only my second post here but I've been reading A LOT on the naked conversion.

I'm going for an OEM conversion and have purchased pretty much all the parts to do this (down to the radiator hose). The only thing that's putting me off is soldering the wires etc. I'm ok at soldering, I'm just terrified of ruining the wiring!

My question is, if I can get hold of a wiring harness from a FZ6N - would it be better to just swap them out? Assuming they're the same. Is that actually a feasible option without completely stripping the bike? Or maybe I could chop the old harness and marry up the headlight/front end section to it?

Any ideas (or moral support) would be greatly appreciated.
 
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iBeef

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Hi there,

I'm currently doing the conversion myself and I'm using the none N harness. There is quite a bit of space in the frame to tuck it into. The only thing I'm going to do to the current harness is delete the h7 bulb wiring and the connector for one of the pod lights and then extend the indicator wires to sit where the other does. I plan to tuck all of mine in the frame when it comes to it.

On the subject of conversion have you got a fz6N top triple? If you look at the thread I made yesterday you'll see they're different between the two variants. I've resorted to drilling and tapping the extra holes.

Good luck with your conversion.

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sifz6

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Hey man, cheers for the response.

I've bought a second hand triple from an N bike so the holes shouldn't be an issue now (just got to work out how to take the thing off. My triple was pretty scratched up too so I thought better to replace it than tap into it.

I'm 50/50 on whether to buy a harness from the N and essentially cut the front end off it - I'll know then that everything is the right length etc. I've noticed the cable routing varies quite a bit between the bikes - I think the throttle cable is routed differently which should free up a bit of space.

On the whole is the wiring difficult to do?
 

upshiftoverdrive

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I cut and soldered my wiring harness, it wasn't too difficult or time consuming. You will have to take out the airbox and battery box though probably, that is what I did. Since the clutch side frame hole was so filled with junk, the harness, throttle cables, ignition cables, horn. I sent the wiring harness out the right side hole to free up some space.
 

FinalImpact

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One word of caution about soldering vs crimping is that, solder done right tends to flow into the wires strands a good distance away from the solder joint.

In many cases this is a good thing until you get into repeated twist, flex, and vibration. Then over time, the wires get brittle from flex damage and break!

I'd crimp and heat shrink if used on an area near the steering. Use bare crimp connectors and slide the heat shrink over as you go....

A good wire stripper and crimp tool and you are set.

This is a good one. Automatic and you can do flat ribbon or 1 - 6 wires at a time. Had it like 20 years and they still make it!!!
Tool Aid, PN 19000 Automatic Wire Stripper

Last bit, stagger your cuts so the harness patch isn't one big blob that doesn't bend.
 
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upshiftoverdrive

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One word of caution about soldering vs crimping is that, solder done right tends to flow into the wires strands a good distance away from the solder joint.

In many cases this is a good thing until you get into repeated twist, flex, and vibration. Then over time, the wires get brittle from flex damage and break!

I'd crimp and heat shrink if used on an area near the steering. Use bare crimp connectors and slide the heat shrink over as you go....

A good wire stripper and crimp tool and you are set.

This is a good one. Automatic and you can do flat ribbon or 1 - 6 wires at a time. Had it like 20 years and they still make it!!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...ywords=tool+aid+automatic+wire+stripping+tool

Last bit, stagger your cuts so the harness patch isn't one big blob that doesn't bend.

Link isn't working for me!

Interesting about the soldering. I trimmed mine near the actually connector, so it is stored safely under the tank behind the battery box.
 

sifz6

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I cut and soldered my wiring harness, it wasn't too difficult or time consuming. You will have to take out the airbox and battery box though probably, that is what I did. Since the clutch side frame hole was so filled with junk, the harness, throttle cables, ignition cables, horn. I sent the wiring harness out the right side hole to free up some space.

Thanks again for the help everyone. Crimping seems the way to go!

I downloaded the routing diagrams from the workshop manual and (from memory) the throttle and brake cables route down the right hand side of the frame, which frees up the left side for the other cables. I'm moving the horn to the braket on right side of bike so that should be ok too.
 

iBeef

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Hi mate, I got to the wiring part of mine today and there really isn't enough room so I shortened mine to 45cm plug to plug which seems to be enough length for flexibility. I just need to tape it up now, I also got rid of the H7 bulb and second pod light wiring to save space.

Before:


After:
 

sifz6

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Hi mate, I got to the wiring part of mine today and there really isn't enough room so I shortened mine to 45cm plug to plug which seems to be enough length for flexibility. I just need to tape it up now, I also got rid of the H7 bulb and second pod light wiring to save space.

Before:


After:

That makes it look a lot simpler!

Is that the full wiring from the entire bike or just the bit removed from the front end?
 

sifz6

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Hi mate, I got to the wiring part of mine today and there really isn't enough room so I shortened mine to 45cm plug to plug which seems to be enough length for flexibility. I just need to tape it up now, I also got rid of the H7 bulb and second pod light wiring to save space.

Before:

Thanks for posting that - helps a lot. Is this the entire wiring harness from the bike, or does this just clip off the front end?
 

iBeef

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Thanks for posting that - helps a lot. Is this the entire wiring harness from the bike, or does this just clip off the front end?
As Motogiro said, it's the front clip on harness. It's all fairly straightforward, just make sure you reconnect all the negative wires. I finished mine today, it was a tight fit but it all fits under the tank.

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sifz6

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As Motogiro said, it's the front clip on harness. It's all fairly straightforward, just make sure you reconnect all the negative wires. I finished mine today, it was a tight fit but it all fits under the tank.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Started mine today! Got everything sorted except the wiring. I've rerouted the throttle cables and harness through the right hand side of the bike which made a lot of space.

Fingers crossed will be all finished tomorrow and back on the road! It's a fiddly job but straight forward.
 

iBeef

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Started mine today! Got everything sorted except the wiring. I've rerouted the throttle cables and harness through the right hand side of the bike which made a lot of space.

Fingers crossed will be all finished tomorrow and back on the road! It's a fiddly job but straight forward.
I pretty much finished mine yesterday, I just need to go back and adjust the throttle free play. Did you use the throttle cables you had or did you use some naked ones? I had no end of issues with binding but rerouting them through the right hand side and over the harness seemed to work. My throttle now returns as it should :). The proper bum clenching moment was when I turned it on and hoped my wiring all worked which it did! One word of advice is the front loom has an earth and I struggled to find a mounting point but after some looking I put it on the right tank bolt and it has plenty of free play lock to lock. The BD43 dual headlight is also a must if you want a switchable low and high beam.

 
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sifz6

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I've got myself in a right mess with the wiring. Trying to get an auto electrician to look at it.

Basically when I press the indicator, the hazard lights come on. When I press the hazard lights, nothing happens. Cannot get my head round it at all - going mad looking at diagrams.
 

iBeef

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I've got myself in a right mess with the wiring. Trying to get an auto electrician to look at it.

Basically when I press the indicator, the hazard lights come on. When I press the hazard lights, nothing happens. Cannot get my head round it at all - going mad looking at diagrams.
That's not good! I just did mine one wire at a time. I need to shorten some of my wires again as it's taking too much room up behind the headlight. I've also noticed that the headlight is rubbing on my clutch cable a little which is unavoidable unless I buy the naked version and route it the way it's meant to go! Have you mounted your light yet? Any restrictions?

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sifz6

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That's not good! I just did mine one wire at a time. I need to shorten some of my wires again as it's taking too much room up behind the headlight. I've also noticed that the headlight is rubbing on my clutch cable a little which is unavoidable unless I buy the naked version and route it the way it's meant to go! Have you mounted your light yet? Any restrictions?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Managed to sort the wiring issue out but not having problems with the OEM bracket catching the frame bolts at the top. The whole thing's been a nightmare to be honest. Half thinking of just packing it in, buying a new harness and putting it back to 'normal'. Have had problems each step of the way with it!
 
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iBeef

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Managed to sort the wiring issue out but not having problems with the OEM bracket catching the frame bolts at the top. The whole thing's been a nightmare to be honest. Half thinking of just packing it in, buying a new harness and putting it back to 'normal'. Have had problems each step of the way with it!
What frame bolts are they? I've sorted my wiring now too. I had to shorten the cables for the indicators etc as they were taking too much room up behind the headlight. If I'm honest I'm glad I've done it but I can't believe how much of an effort it's been, it's nowhere as easy as bolting on a bracket as some people make out, especially​ for everything to work as it should.

I'm actually half tempted to buy another front wiring harness now​ I know all the lengths etc. needed and make a really clean version. It seems that here in the UK a naked front harness is as rare as rocking horse s**t. I can run mine as it is but the clutch cable is deffo rubbing so I need to order the N version to route it correctly.
 

sifz6

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What frame bolts are they? I've sorted my wiring now too. I had to shorten the cables for the indicators etc as they were taking too much room up behind the headlight. If I'm honest I'm glad I've done it but I can't believe how much of an effort it's been, it's nowhere as easy as bolting on a bracket as some people make out, especially​ for everything to work as it should.

I'm actually half tempted to buy another front wiring harness now​ I know all the lengths etc. needed and make a really clean version. It seems that here in the UK a naked front harness is as rare as rocking horse s**t. I can run mine as it is but the clutch cable is deffo rubbing so I need to order the N version to route it correctly.
I've enquired about a naked harness from fowlersparts (really good UK based company to get your bits from - their website is amazing). Waiting to hear back from them. I've basically butchered my standard harness so bought another one off ebay and collected it today. It's really not an easy mod to do at all - the wiring is such a mess at the moment and cables are routed over the bars at the moment which seems to work (but doesn't look brilliantly).

Do you have a part number for a naked front harness? I can't even find that!

Cheers again for the help.
 
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