What is the best Oil.

[Jeremiah]

50,100,500,1000, then every 3000 miles. I use Shell Rhotella (SP?) DYNO (non-synthetic) for break-in up to about 4-7,000 miles & supertech or purilator oil filters (depending on how far away nearest Pep Boys is). IMHO synthetic's advantages are primarily in their ability to extend oil change intervals. Since I'm changing the oil so frequently in the beginning, I think synth is a total waste of $$$. After that, I switch to Mobile 1 or Shell Rhotella T Synthetic (and then stick with that same brand for life of vehicle).

In all my reading of REAL data (oil analysis, filter break-downs etc) - the most important thing is usually not the brand of oil, but the frequency with which you change it. If you're changing oil every 3,000 miles - it doesn't really matter what oil one uses. It's only if you're interested in extending the change interval to 10,000+ that brands (and their fancy detergent formulations) become important. This is because the #1 killer (well, second to oil starvation which is a whole other issue) of engines due to oil is it's ACIDITY from blow-by over time (which detergent packages battle). Lubricity is a DISTANT second.

Of course - all of this is academic really - as I'll likely sell the bike LONG LONG LONG before the benefits of my well-researched & anal-retentive care can be realized.

My favorite sites for oil stuffs:
Motorcycle Oil and Filters
Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

[Nelly]

50,100,500,1000, then every 3000 miles. I use Shell Rhotella (SP?) DYNO (non-synthetic) for break-in up to about 4-7,000 miles & supertech or purilator oil filters (depending on how far away nearest Pep Boys is). IMHO synthetic's advantages are primarily in their ability to extend oil change intervals. Since I'm changing the oil so frequently in the beginning, I think synth is a total waste of $$$. After that, I switch to Mobile 1 or Shell Rhotella T Synthetic (and then stick with that same brand for life of vehicle).

In all my reading of REAL data (oil analysis, filter break-downs etc) - the most important thing is usually not the brand of oil, but the frequency with which you change it. If you're changing oil every 3,000 miles - it doesn't really matter what oil one uses. It's only if you're interested in extending the change interval to 10,000+ that brands (and their fancy detergent formulations) become important. This is because the #1 killer (well, second to oil starvation which is a whole other issue) of engines due to oil is it's ACIDITY from blow-by over time (which detergent packages battle). Lubricity is a DISTANT second.

Of course - all of this is academic really - as I'll likely sell the bike LONG LONG LONG before the benefits of my well-researched & anal-retentive care can be realized.

My favorite sites for oil stuffs:
Motorcycle Oil and Filters
Bob Is The Oil Guy

So Tesco it is then?

 

[Jeremiah]

I used the SuperTech ST7317 (It's about 1/3rd longer, so it probably has more filter element than stock Yamaha filter - cost $3). I'll switch to Purilator when I go full synthetic / after break-in.

I do all my own oil changes, so instead of having a special tool for each filter type, I got one of the tools pictured below (which adjusts to fit most filters). You wrap this around the filter, twist up the slack around the shaft - then input a ratchet into the end - it'll spin the filters right on / off very easily.

 

[OneTrack]

Speaking of oil.......the manual recommends either 10-30 or 20-40 oil in an 06 FZ6, depending upon the temps of where one lives. Will using 10-40 synth cause my world to end?
Our temps range from (at the most extreme) -10deg C to +30deg C (that's 14deg F to 86deg F).

 

[urbanj]

I have seen many oil related failures. But due to the neglect of the oil over a long period of time. With better engineering and the machining processes becoming better and better, more engines have the ability to still run many miles while being poorly maintained.

when you go awhile when not changing it, the oil will burn off leaving deposits and varnish within the engine. over time this wreaks havoc in the oil passages and causes sticking rings, lifters etc.

the cylinders are lubricated by engine oil splash from the crank. if the oil level gets low there is less oil reaching the cylinder walls causing increased friction and heat. now if it has piston squirter's thats different but if one gets gummed up than its the same deal.

most of the time its a bunch of contributing factors that cause engine death.
a blatant mechanical failure can occur either due to operator error or a mechanical defect.

 

[urbanj]

Speaking of oil.......the manual recommends either 10-30 or 20-40 oil in an 06 FZ6, depending upon the temps of where one lives. Will using 10-40 synth cause my world to end?
Our temps range from (at the most extreme) -10deg C to +30deg C (that's 14deg F to 86deg F).

the 10w30 should be fine unless you are constantly under high load at high rpm or its really hot. then a thicker viscosity will help. in the spring/summer months here id say a 10w40 would provide a best of both worlds. considering it can be cold in the morning and then get really hot in the afternoon.

 

[OneTrack]

in the spring/summer months here id say a 10w40 would provide a best of both worlds. considering it can be cold in the morning and then get really hot in the afternoon.

That's what I'm thinking...that 10w40 should really be ideal for our spring and summer here in Vancouver, while still providing enough protection for the two weeks I take my bike to Osoyoos in August. I've got 3 quarts of Amsoil 10w40 snake oil that I bought in a weak moment at the Bike Show looking for a home, so I guess I'll dump it in my FZ6.
Oh...edited to keep on subject...I did my 1st service at 1000 km's. Although the manual calls for oil changes after that at 7,000 km's or 6 months, I'm still old school and will change my oil every 3000 km's regardless. Bear in mind that's a full season's riding for me these days.

 

[HavBlue]

the cylinders are lubricated by engine oil splash from the crank. if the oil level gets low there is less oil reaching the cylinder walls causing increased friction and heat. now if it has piston squirter's thats different but if one gets gummed up than its the same deal.

Not a whole lot of splash. Can't afford the HP loss. If there were to much going on they would have used a windage tray.

 

[JJFRANKIS]

Oil Filters

Does anyone know where can you buy Purolator Pure One motorcycle oil filters?

 

[Boneman]

Does anyone know where can you buy Purolator Pure One motorcycle oil filters?

Hmmm...Google anyone..... :banghead:

Took all of 26 seconds: Purolator - Pure Oil Now. Pure Oil Later. - click on the "Where To Buy" link.

 

[OneTrack]

I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

...my bike is now vibration-free, it revs quicker, my hearing is better and I don't need my glasses anymore. I think my sense of taste and smell are heightened as well as my libido....not sure about that last one, though.

 

[wrightme43]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

I put in my pants and now I am a porn star.

 

[Hellgate]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

...my bike is now vibration-free, it revs quicker, my hearing is better and I don't need my glasses anymore. I think my sense of taste and smell are heightened as well as my libido....not sure about that last one, though.

It makes the red ones blue too, 10% faster.

 

[Doorag]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

Never heard of it but I can buy it over here. Is it really THAT good? Educate me.

 

[HavBlue]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

Never heard of it but I can buy it over here. Is it really THAT good? Educate me.

Amsoil is good and in any test would be on the short list of the top 3 in any category tested. It is also extremely expensive and can only be purchased from independent dealers much like Amway or Mary Kay. As is the case with other top notch pure synthetics it offers excellent wear protection and an industry leading flash point well in excess of 400F. You can check their product line here:

AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases

 

[cashcrzzy]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

Did You happen to use their filter with it ? What color is the filter if you did ??
Im thinking about same oil after my first oil change happens ,150 miles to go ..
Greg A.

 

[4fun]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

I started using it in the motocross bikes and now i use it in the FZ-6 and the cars. Cant say that it makes them faster (especially the FZ, its blue so its already fast) but the vibrations are less, which must be good.

 

[reiobard]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

it isn't that expensive, about the same as buying oil at the Yamaha dealership for me. You can order straight off the Amsoil website too.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

 

[ant_mb]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

it isn't that expensive, about the same as buying oil at the Yamaha dealership for me. You can order straight off the Amsoil website too.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

Thanks for the link, I ordered 5 gallons to give it a try. I have 3 bikes to try it in, they are all just over break in, so I was looking for a synthetic for them. I'll let you know what I think.

 

[OneTrack]

Re: I put Amsoil 10w40 in my FZ6 and it's a miracle...

it isn't that expensive, about the same as buying oil at the Yamaha dealership for me. You can order straight off the Amsoil website too.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

I paid about $12 a US Quart in Canadian Tire. They only sell Fram oil filters, which I know are a problem with our cars, so I used a Yamaha filter...if in doubt, always go OEM.