What is that noise?

[gnyce]

Bonus: you now have an engine to rebuild just for the sake of doing it. It’s a lot of work, but it’s not hard work and it’s not expensive. A few hundred for a gasket/seal kit, bearing shells are about $40/pair. Things like timing chain and CCT should be reviewed and measured.

The unrealistic-me wants to turn this engine rebuild from a 600cc -> 660cc. There are a few ways to do that, as detailed on the fzronline.com archives (one way being getting the top-half of a yzf600 engine). Down-to-earth me remembers that you must learn to walk before you run.

All that is left is - Airbox, gas tank/fuel pump, add oil... and replace starter clutch flywheel (chipped tooth), should be able to try to turn it over this wknd. Unfortunately the day job now intrudes.

 

[Gary in NJ]

...and snow is on the way....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

...and snow is on the way....

Snow??? What's that?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Snow??? What's that?

It's great for skiing, and sucks all other times.

 

[gnyce]

So.... bad news on cylinders 2 and 3 on the Canada engine. Sigh... so looks like my decision is made for me. Foolishly deciding to run before walking, have '00 YZF600R cylinder block and pistons in hand - modest expense - and looking for machine shop to take ~0.18 from original conrod to fit piston pin, and make this into a 660cc. Engine dropped back out tonight, hope to start - well, shortly. I don't operate on Gary's timeline though, so expect this to take quite a bit longer. Regardless, any journey starts with first step.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Well that sucks. The good news is that you’ll have the engine you wanted. Any idea why cylinders 2 & 3 have low compression? Do you have a leak-down tester? 30 psi makes me think bent valve.

I’m thinking any machine shop should be able to remove .09 per side. Make sure the countersink that is currently in the small end is machined into the newly machined small end.

 

[gnyce]

Conrods and cylinder block are at the machine shop as of last Friday. Estimating 2 weeks. What a fantastic shop floor that was.... tons of heavy machinery that do God knows what (they do industrial engines as well as cars, etc), and all really old stuff. Eyes wide, let me tell you. They seem to know their business, nothing like the asshole I first went to see (who said they could not keep the honing/boring centered - think he was shining me on, but whatever, much happier at this place).

Again, I have no business attempting this, but - canada-engine is in the basement and started tearing it open. Top end, camshafts, and cylinder block are off. Piston heads are crusty. Rings _seem_ ok, so not sure on low compression yet. Will look later - I have time, new piston rings on order and not expected until end of Feb. Probably should have checked valve clearances, but thought I should not assume, and do it _post_ piston/conrod/block replacement.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Exciting.

The pistons and head combustion chambers will clean up well with brake cleaner and a brass brush. I also like to use a pick to scrape the stubborn parts.

You should have done a leak down test prior to pulling it apart. This way you would have known the exact reason for low compression. Without a leak down, new rings are a good idea. You can still perform a wet test on the head. With the the combustion chamber facing up, and a spark plug installed you can fill the surface with brake cleaner. The fluid shouldn’t leak past the valves. If you find brake cleaner in the intake or exhaust port you will have to inspect the guide and seat.