What is the best Oil.

[Humperdinkel]

Re: Another OIL question

I use a Motul full synthetic oil and have found NO issue's with the clutch slipping , it was even recommended to me by a friend of mine who is a Yamaha mechanic at our local Yammy dealer :thumbup:......If the clutch fails then its on his head i guess and i know he would'nt feed me rubbish....You will however find the gearbox is soooo much sweeter to shift with far less clunking...........Win Win written all over it i say :rockon: :rockon:

 

[Stumbles06]

Re: Another OIL question

My bike only has 2500 miles on it, and I want to start using a great oil. I can buy the gallon of non-syn Yamalube for cheaper than the gallon of full-syn Rotella

What have you guys who use Rotella, Mobil, or other car&truck oils found? Do you notice any difference in clutch operation? Any better or worse results since the switch, and who has the most miles on their bike that uses non motorcycle branded oil?

I'm with Humps, I just changed to Motul 5100, semi-synthetic with Ester blend.

I sort of agree with the mechanic, don't use car/truck oil in your bike, get an oil formulated for the bike. The Motul stuff isn't cheap, but MAN... It's great. Like Humps said, the gearbox is soooooo much quieter now, and gear changes are sooooo much smoother.

 

[aussiejules]

Re: Another OIL question

i too have changed to motul 5100 semi syn 10/40. I first changed to valvoline durablend 10/40 seeing that i sell oil and sure as hell wasnt happy. Im sure the clutch was slipping at 175km/h so it only stayed in for 1 week, then i went out and bought oil.(oh how that hurt) I really havent noticed any difference it still rattles like mad. I was thinking about synpower 5/40 but after the durablend decided not to. I have read and heard people say full syn destroys bearings, but have not seen any proof.

 

[BranNwebster]

Re: Another OIL question

I use the rotella full syn in my 07 Nissan Altima, 06 Ford F150, and in my FZ6.

There is an oil bible in on my drive. Follow the link in this thread.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/8433-books-manuals.html

 

[wolfc70]

Re: Another OIL question

I read through the other posts, and have been considering the Rotella full synthetic 5w40. I mentioned this to a guy at my local yamaha parts shop, and he cursed me up and down and said I would be replacing the clutch every 3 months because there is no additive for the wet clutch system. He claims that you CANNOT get away with using anything that isnt branded for motorcycle use with the MA symbol on the back or it will mess with your clutch. Was he just trying to sell me a gallon of oil?

Another parts guy I have known for years (and I trust) told me a few years back that full synthetic can sometimes cause the clutch to slip because it is TOO SLICK of an oil.... Great for cars, bad for bikes.

My bike only has 2500 miles on it, and I want to start using a great oil. I can buy the gallon of non-syn Yamalube for cheaper than the gallon of full-syn Rotella

What have you guys who use Rotella, Mobil, or other car&truck oils found? Do you notice any difference in clutch operation? Any better or worse results since the switch, and who has the most miles on their bike that uses non motorcycle branded oil?

Go tell your dealer to shove off. I call B.S. There is no "additive" for wet clutches, period. The JASO MA standard basically means that there are no friction modifiers in the oil. If the SAE label says "energy conserving", the oil has friction modifiers, which are bad for wet clutches. Most "automotive oils" have friction modifiers, and they are usually lower weights, like 0w-20 and 10w-30. Rotella T synthetic does not meet the JASO MA standard, mainly beacuse its ash content is too high, which will not hurt the clutch. I have used Rotella T (both the Syn and regular) and never had a clutch issue, so run it with confidence. The regular Rotella T meets the JASO MA standard, though Shell does not put it on the bottle. Lots of people here run Rotella products, and I have never seen anyone post about clutch issues. Your dealer wants to fear monger you into buying $10 quart oil, never give them your money again. Next they will tell you that only the $14 Yamaha filter will work, any other filter will cause engine damage. Do not buy it!! Forum members here have been using various oils and filters for years, and mechanical faliures are almost non existent.

 

[wolfc70]

Re: Another OIL question

I use the rotella full syn in my 07 Nissan Altima, 06 Ford F150, and in my FZ6.

There is an oil bible in on my drive. Follow the link in this thread.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/8433-books-manuals.html

I like the Oil Bible. The only thing he got wrong is that PAO basestock does not cause seal shrinking. The reason synthetic oil got it's bad name was the diesters used in the first oil on the market. The diesters caused the seals to swell, which in it self is fine, but if you change back to normal oil, you get leaks. Which is what caused the bad reputation. The higher milage automotive stuff has diesters to help stop leaky seals.

 

[blitzcraig]

Synthetic 10W-30 vs. 10W-40

apologies if this is in the forum somewhere, i ran some searches but it didn't find much. anyway, i've been running AMSoil 10W-40 for the past few oil changes and was thinking of switching to 10W-30. do any of the synthetic fans have a preference? i understand that the temp outside has something to do it it, if i am not mistaken... like if it is summer or winter. was going to head over to the shop later to stock up and was going to grab the 10W-30 for sh*ts and giggles. in any case, just thought i would see if anyone had any input. it is and has always been MUCH appreciated :thumbup:

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: Another OIL question

I read through the other posts, and have been considering the Rotella full synthetic 5w40. I mentioned this to a guy at my local yamaha parts shop, and he cursed me up and down and said I would be replacing the clutch every 3 months because there is no additive for the wet clutch system. He claims that you CANNOT get away with using anything that isnt branded for motorcycle use with the MA symbol on the back or it will mess with your clutch. Was he just trying to sell me a gallon of oil?

Another parts guy I have known for years (and I trust) told me a few years back that full synthetic can sometimes cause the clutch to slip because it is TOO SLICK of an oil.... Great for cars, bad for bikes.

My bike only has 2500 miles on it, and I want to start using a great oil. I can buy the gallon of non-syn Yamalube for cheaper than the gallon of full-syn Rotella

What have you guys who use Rotella, Mobil, or other car&truck oils found? Do you notice any difference in clutch operation? Any better or worse results since the switch, and who has the most miles on their bike that uses non motorcycle branded oil?

The dude at your dealer is an uneducated moron.... Rotella T 5W 40 will not harm your's or anyone elses vehicle in any shape or form. I have been using it my bikes for years...

 

[wolfc70]

Re: Synthetic 10W-30 vs. 10W-40

apologies if this is in the forum somewhere, i ran some searches but it didn't find much. anyway, i've been running AMSoil 10W-40 for the past few oil changes and was thinking of switching to 10W-30. do any of the synthetic fans have a preference? i understand that the temp outside has something to do it it, if i am not mistaken... like if it is summer or winter. was going to head over to the shop later to stock up and was going to grab the 10W-30 for sh*ts and giggles. in any case, just thought i would see if anyone had any input. it is and has always been MUCH appreciated :thumbup:

I would stick with 10w-40. Why? The first number of the oil is the cold weight, i.e. winter weight. The second is the viscosity after the oil reaches 100C, which is important for a number of reasons. The FZ6 (like most bikes) uses the engine oil to lubricate the clutch and gearbox along with the engine internals. Yamaha built the internal tolerances to withstand a xW-40wt oil. Unless you are running the bike in very cold conditions, a xW-30wt may not provide adaquate shear protection in the gear box or other components. The first number means little in overall viscosity, as a 5w-40 is just thinner (and has a lower pour point) when cold than a 15w-40. In MD during the summer, I would shy away from a 10w-30 in this application.

 

[Nelly]

Re: Synthetic 10W-30 vs. 10W-40

apologies if this is in the forum somewhere, i ran some searches but it didn't find much. anyway, i've been running AMSoil 10W-40 for the past few oil changes and was thinking of switching to 10W-30. do any of the synthetic fans have a preference? i understand that the temp outside has something to do it it, if i am not mistaken... like if it is summer or winter. was going to head over to the shop later to stock up and was going to grab the 10W-30 for sh*ts and giggles. in any case, just thought i would see if anyone had any input. it is and has always been MUCH appreciated :thumbup:

Hi Mate,

I think your search button is broken mate:rof:? Oil has more threads on it than a spiders web. These are on the first three pages when you type in " Which oil".
Please all of you no more oil......................................................

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-t...s-manuals.html (books and manuals)

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/12182-when-change-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/12144-changing-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/224-what-best-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/11993-why-you-should-use-amsoil-synthetic.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/11726-oil-how-often-do-you-check-4.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/11042-oil-grade.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...38-how-many-miles-do-you-change-your-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...38-how-many-miles-do-you-change-your-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/10627-oil-change.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/4911-when-should-i-switch-synthetic-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/bar/10213-oil-debate.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...38-rotella-t-you-guys-using-wrong-weight.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/1573-how-do-oil-change.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/9940-oil-change-now-wait-till-spring.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/main...486-thought-fully-synthetic-oil-fz6-08-a.html


Nelly:thumbup:

 

[staticghost]

Re: Synthetic 10W-30 vs. 10W-40

Hi Mate,

I think your search button is broken mate:rof:? Oil has more threads on it than a spiders web. These are on the first three pages when you type in " Which oil".
Please all of you no more oil......................................................

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-t...s-manuals.html (books and manuals)

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/12182-when-change-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/12144-changing-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/224-what-best-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/11993-why-you-should-use-amsoil-synthetic.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/11726-oil-how-often-do-you-check-4.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/11042-oil-grade.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...38-how-many-miles-do-you-change-your-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...38-how-many-miles-do-you-change-your-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/10627-oil-change.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/4911-when-should-i-switch-synthetic-oil.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/bar/10213-oil-debate.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...38-rotella-t-you-guys-using-wrong-weight.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/1573-how-do-oil-change.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/9940-oil-change-now-wait-till-spring.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/main...486-thought-fully-synthetic-oil-fz6-08-a.html


Nelly:thumbup:

Wow....sup buddy...how long did it take you to pull these out like this... like a magic tick...Nice.

 

[blitzcraig]

Re: Synthetic 10W-30 vs. 10W-40

thanks fellers. i know, i swear i think it is broken. something isn't right. doing searches for things comes up with nothing. so pardon the duplicate post... i tired to keep it short and sweet!

 

[gpd211]

Re: Another OIL question

i've got 36k (miles not km) on the fz and 60k (miles not km) on my shadow. both run rotella full syn. never a clutch problem with either

 

[kinderwood]

Re: Another OIL question

4500 miles on Rotella T synthetic here. No problems. Either he was lying to you or uneducated. Either way, he's an idiot. I concur with what wolfc70 said. The car oils are unacceptable becuse they put friction modifiers in to make them "energy conserving". Rotella doesn't have that. Rotella T synthetic has been tested and passed the JASO standard except for the ash content, and it was only marginally over. That's not to say Rotella T synthetic is the best choice (that starts an oil war), just that Rotella is perfectly acceptable in motorcycles as are many other synthetic brands.

 

[Oscar54]

Re: Another OIL question

My 06 owners manual recommends any oil with a API service rating =>SE.

I use Rotella. Rotella is designed for diesel engines. It's API Service says it is suitable for gasoline engines rating at SL, SJ, SH. So it meets the owners manual specification.

Other things I have read is that Rotella Syn is designed to handle high sulfur and other corrosive attributes of diesel fuel. Though not present in gasoline, it stands to reason that these qualities will help reduce deposits and corrosive wear in your FZ motor.

Also, I have read that and seen Shell analysis of ash and other contaminants that indigenous to oil and Rotella meets most if not all the requirements of the JASO MA standards, and does not include the automotive anti-friction additives that are said to cause the wet clutch to slip or chatter when engaging.

I personally believe that my clutch and transmission operate smoother with the Rotella than they did with the Mobil 1 auto syn oil. Since Rotella is half the price of motorcycle JASO MA syn oil and has very similar attributes and meets Yamaha spec's, I choose Rotella.

But in the end, you have to be comfortable with what you use, it is your bike.

 

[Nelly]

Re: Synthetic 10W-30 vs. 10W-40

thanks fellers. i know, i swear i think it is broken. something isn't right. doing searches for things comes up with nothing. so pardon the duplicate post... i tired to keep it short and sweet!

No worries mate,

The search function requires at least five letters (I think) to effect a good search.

Nelly

 

[ender]

Re: Another OIL question

3100 miles with Shell Rotella T full synthetic 5W40, no problems and very happy. :thumbup:

 

[wrightme43]

Re: Another OIL question

Well

Lets see

A. The dude may be uneducated.
B. The dude may know that its ok, but just want to sell his oil.
C. The dude may be retarded.

Basicly the next time anyone says synth oil is "too slick" put them in the stupid file and disregard thier advice.

Or you could be like OH MY GOD!!!!! NOOOOOOOEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fall to your knees and weep uncontrolably and ask for some some of his super special wet clutch magic oil (that in testing has no real difference from good synth oil except that it quickly loses viscosity and rapidly degrades) at 7.99 a quart.

Also get one of their inefficent filters if they have any laying around.

Try this it will help you.
Motorcycle Oil and Filters

 

[Zebratounge]

Re: Another OIL question

I have over 10,000 miles on my 07 FZ6 It has had Rotella Full Syn since 900 miles. I change it around 3000 miles. I then pour it into My 87 S10 one quart at a time. it uses a little oil.

 

[jniedermeyer]

Re: Another OIL question

I have over 10,000 miles on my 07 FZ6 It has had Rotella Full Syn since 900 miles. I change it around 3000 miles. I then pour it into My 87 S10 one quart at a time. it uses a little oil.

not a bad idea. the oil is ok if it still has a golden hue. black or silver is bad.