Throttle Position Sensor Issues (Are you Experiencing Poor Idle/Mileage, or Stalls?)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Depending on much crap/build up is in there, you may very well have to run a tank or two of it before you see any change in performance. I wouldn't baby it either...

Please post your results and good luck..

 

[ivor1980]

Adjusted tps from 14 to 17(18actually ) removed baffles,adjusted idle and....no hunting!!!!!! Not 100 smooth idle,but no hunting.Now waiting for injector cleaner to arrive.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Adjusted tps from 14 to 17(18actually ) removed baffles,adjusted idle and....no hunting!!!!!! Not 100 smooth idle,but no hunting.Now waiting for injector cleaner to arrive.

Excellent!

Something to remember as others have had that hunting idle.

Do you remember what the upper # is?

 

[duc4dan]

My 2004 FZ6 I acquired 6mo ago had all the classic TPS recall symptoms, but the one that is pretty telling is that shutting of the bike and starting it again will often fix the problem for a while.

I called a dealer and ordered the TPS part as they weren't sure if my bike was covered in the recall. When I picked up the replacement TPS, some $120+ and scheduled them to install, they checked the VIN and said it was fully covered. They refunded my money and did the install no charge!

The dealer was Grand Prix Motorcycles in Santa Clara and I do recommend them! The bike runs great now and I strongly suggest getting this problem fixed if you have the symptoms - it's a critical safety issue. I've 50 years riding experience and it is just not safe to ride with the problem.

I have to say the FZ6 is one fun ride now - I can't get off the thing !!

Cheers, Dan

 

[Rilie]

My bike feels sluggish and choppy when starting at low rpms, so I wanted to do this test. When i got to the screen that says dIAG and pressed select it didnt change screens to anything. So i couldn't get to the d01 screen. Am I doing something wrong?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My bike feels sluggish and choppy when starting at low rpms, so I wanted to do this test. When i got to the screen that says dIAG and pressed select it didnt change screens to anything. So i couldn't get to the d01 screen. Am I doing something wrong?

From the first post:

To check the TPS values, you have to press and hold SELECT + RESET, then turn the key and keep them pressed for 8 more seconds.

It'll appear dIAg on the display, you can release them now. Afterwards use select until you see a d01 (Diagnostic Mode for the TPS)

Then it should read between 15 and 17 if the throttle is closed,
With the throttle fully open, it should read between 97 and 100.

If the values are over or below those I mentioned, the TPS should be replaced.

To leave the dIAG mode, simply turn the key counter clockwise.

For more discussion on testing TPS, see this post:
http://forums.sportbikes.net/forums/...&postcount=247


If the above doesn't work for you, I'd try it again, perhaps disconnect the battery and re-set the system. You should be able to get to it..

 

[Rilie]

Thats exactly what i did i don't know whats wrong? after the dIAG comes up i just push select right?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thats exactly what i did i don't know whats wrong? after the dIAG comes up i just push select right?

Yepper...

CC to:

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION], @ Motogiro

They may be able to help further...

 

[FinalImpact]

Thats exactly what i did i don't know whats wrong? after the dIAG comes up i just push select right?

Hi and Welcome to the forum! I might suggest you start a new thread detailing your current issues and add anything about the history of the bike.

Q? Do both of the buttons work for doing basic things like trip distance and switching in and out options?

I had a meter apart where one of the buttons was not functioning. So, keep that in mind. If they both work, you might disconnect the battery for a bit/or pull the back up fuse and leave the key off so the meter resets.

FWIW: 85% of the cases of Bad TPS it doesn't show at visual level anyhow (can't be seen by this test). That said, while the battery is disconnected, pull some of the critical connections apart and inspect them for corrosion.

TPS, ECU, Pressure Sensor, Ignition trigger, etc.
include [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] in new post and I'll see what we can do to figure this out!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Please include @TownsendsFJR1300 as well.

BTW, that automatically notifies us of that new post and are sub-scribed.

 

[georgerdp]

When I tested in diag with cold engine turned up 16 - 97 , all #`s fine( 17---97) but with hot engine 16 -96 ....(all numbers fine to 96)
How can I adjust it ?
When engine goes cold is back 16-97
At idle bike does 1200 - 1340 rpm , and when is very hot in city 1250-1340
and time to time (very hot) 1340 -1480 ...

 

[Floridianson]

Thats exactly what i did i don't know whats wrong? after the dIAG comes up i just push select right?

On mine I had to do the hold and turn key thing then when dIAG came up I had to release both and then hold both again for maybe 8 seconds to get into d01.

 

[FUHL]

Does this work on an 06? I tried but it would not go to d01. Perhaps as stated above I need to hold both buttons for another 8 seconds after a short release?

 

[FinalImpact]

I've never seen a "How to" on TB R/R so you'll be the first.

I've had the TB off another guys bike and its pretty straight forward. Two tools you must have to make it simple - acquire both 3 and 4mm allen wrenches that are at least 6" long. If these can't be found, grab the longest shank of this size and 1/4" drive with a long extension. OR make your own by cutting an Allen wrench and fitting it to a 3 or 4 mm socket.

By the Book you also need a volt meter, but you can use the Diag mode to set it.
Pull the seat, tank, battery and air box. Follow one of the "How to Check Valve Clearance" threads, same process. With the proper tools you have access in about 15". In my album on this site are many pictures. You might look through them... --> Final Impact, Bike P O R N Because the Idle Air Control Valve is connected to the cooling system, you might just go ahead and drain it. It should be done every couple years anyway. Mix 50/50 with distilled water and Glycol. Refill is something less than 2 quarts total.

In this case, I popped the fairing free too (valve clearance check). Overkill for your cause.

Pay attention to how the fuel line decouples... ^^
Set tank aside with Fuel line up as shown. Some may leak from gravity.

In this pic you see the hack 4mm tool to free the air box. With the battery out, bolts removed, loosen the 4 hose clamps, loosen the 4 Throttle Body clamps at the top, and remove air box.

Now you gain access and it looks like this:

Remove the jamb nuts holding the throttle cables in place. Best done from the cable SHEATH side. RETURN THEM EXACTLY TO THAT DISTANCE, otherwise you get them out of adjustment and throttle sticks. Once the cable body is free, twist the throttle shaft to align the cable end and free the cable end. Try not to kink the cable.

View from above. You could just pull the Rubber hoses from the IACV and plug them, but I'd suggest draining the coolant if its close to due. Unplug any connectors to the TB and take pictures along the way for cable routings....

Loosen 4X 3mm clamps at the BASE of the TB's. Now there is next to nothing holding the TBs in place. Rock them until they come free and pull straight up.

Here is the TPS. Do ALL of your adjusting while the throttle bodies are free of the engine bay. As you can see, access is limited by the frame. So, attach battery and cables, go into DIAG and set the TPS for values listed in FSM. You're goal should be to center the highest and lowest numbers seen. I.e. you don't want 25 & 130, shoot for 16 and 98 or so. You just need to rotate the TB with the NEW TPS attached. You do not need the Fuel tank or injectors plugged in. Just the TPS and battery. Make your adjustments BEFORE setting the TB assmebly onto the engine. Verify by rotating the Throttle Shaft and Watching in DIAG mode.

If all goes well you end up with this assembly out on the work bench!

Use a VOLT METER AND SET the TPS OUTPUT / Key ON:
Throttle position sensor setup:
Output voltage (at idle) 0.63-0.73 V
• Positive tester probe at Yellow wire
• Negative tester probe at Black/Blue
Resistance 4.0–6.0 kΩ

In Diag Mode; Verify Range is within specification:
• Fully closed position 15–17
• Fully opened position 97–100

Note: The Idle value is MORE important than the WOT value.

PS - DO NOT drop ANYTHING into the OPEN intake runners! MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE WILL RESULT:

• Confirm bolts are secure on TPS.
• Clean the boots at the base and TB outlet.
• Begin installation of TB's onto intake.
• That's all I've got for now. Take your time putting it back and DOUBLE Check everything!!

TAG: JJD952 Throttle Body Replacement
From post 3 of: How to Change my Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

 

[ZünRob]

My FZ6 S2 suffers from on/off throttle response since I bought it (new out of the box), but runs great once it is past that point. It is a 2008 model, so as far as I know it wasn't affected by a faulty TPS.
If I check the values it is on 16 as lower limit, but the upper one is over 100. Would and why would that be a problem? Is my TPS faulty?

 

[Motogiro]

My FZ6 S2 suffers from on/off throttle response since I bought it (new out of the box), but runs great once it is past that point. It is a 2008 model, so as far as I know it wasn't affected by a faulty TPS.
If I check the values it is on 16 as lower limit, but the upper one is over 100. Would and why would that be a problem? Is my TPS faulty?

A TPS can become faulty. The very best way to check one would be with an oscilloscope. If your numbers are close to the specs. I think you should be good. When you test the range, slowly turn the throttle and if you see the number jump around instead of smooth transition, there is a problem.
I've experienced trouble shooting a TPS and it passed the ohm meter test but was still faulty because it had noise that the computer didn't like.
An example would be an older radio with a volume control that makes static when you adjust it. If you measured the volume control resistance, it might look fine on the ohm meter but you can clearly hear there are little gaps as you rotate the control. More severe gaps will be measured by the meter but smaller quick gaps are not measured and translate as noise or static. This is why an oscilloscope would be the best way to see those small variations that the ECM/ECU might not like.

The FZ6 has a reputation for more abrupt on/off throttle that was supposed to be better with the S-2 (2007-2009) models. Make sure you idle is about 1300 RPM and throttle body synching never hurts to help eliminate many related problems.

 

[ZünRob]

A TPS can become faulty. The very best way to check one would be with an oscilloscope. If your numbers are close to the specs. I think you should be good. When you test the range, slowly turn the throttle and if you see the number jump around instead of smooth transition, there is a problem.
I've experienced trouble shooting a TPS and it passed the ohm meter test but was still faulty because it had noise that the computer didn't like.
An example would be an older radio with a volume control that makes static when you adjust it. If you measured the volume control resistance, it might look fine on the ohm meter but you can clearly hear there are little gaps as you rotate the control. More severe gaps will be measured by the meter but smaller quick gaps are not measured and translate as noise or static. This is why an oscilloscope would be the best way to see those small variations that the ECM/ECU might not like.

The FZ6 has a reputation for more abrupt on/off throttle that was supposed to be better with the S-2 (2007-2009) models. Make sure you idle is about 1300 RPM and throttle body synching never hurts to help eliminate many related problems.

Thanks for your response. As mine is a 2008, it should be okay. I only experience abrupt throttle when decelerating with closed throttle, and then opening the throttle again. It gives a sudden surge. I was wondering whether this is the "normal throttle response" know for the FZ6 S2, or if this is a faulty sensor. It however has this behaviour since I bought it new...

 

[Senior]

As Motogiro said check your idle RPM, also a slack chain can cause jerky throttle on and off

 

[FinalImpact]

Reference is post 175:
This characteristic is NORMAL and its byproduct of the Fuel Map which is designed to reduce fuel consumption and emissions.

When opening the throttle the ECM ADDS Fuel. When you close the throttle at higher RPM, there is little need for fuel being thrown into the engine so the ECM essentially turns off the injectors (fueling to the engine). The engine being the big pump that it is, has inhaled all the fuel that was in the intake runner and there is no more to make power but its still spinning at lets say 5000 RPM. When You open the throttle the intake runners have AIR but little fuel in a mixed state. When the Air Fuel Mixture enters the combustion chamber you feel that "POWER ON" state as Wetting of the intake runners occurred and combustion is making power again - hence, the shock to the drivetrain. In short, the OEM fuel map makes us feel that lag or delay where it goes from no real power being applied (but the throttle is open) to power on.

Basic options are to ADD FUEL OR change your style and open the throttle more! i.e. shift down and let it rev to reduce the rewet effect.

 

[Koissu]

Can a Yamaha dealer search for my bike's history by VIN to see if the sensor has been replaced? Or is there a way I can check? I can't seem to find info about this on here.

My idle fluctuates up and down about 1.5k rpms, somewhere between 500 and 2000, I'm not sure if that is normal or not. My MPG is 35-40 and that seems rather low.