Stuck "no.9 bolt" under rear seat

Engeeone

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Hi all, am trying to fit a set of Givi panniers to my 08 Fazer. Have run into an obstacle on page 1!

To fit the converter that enables me to mount the pannier frames without a Givi top box, I have to remove my seat and take off all the rear bodywork and the tailpipe surrounds to enable me to get to the frame where I have to mount the pannier frames.

Under the seat are two bolts marked "no. 9" that hold the plastic bodywork on. THEY WILL NOT BUDGE! I have tried WD40, wrenches, a drill with a half-inch attachment etc.

Any suggestions gratefully received...maybe I am missing something obvious?

I am going to try a garage with a pneumatic wrench or something next week if that's the only option...

Pic's of the instal promised in exchange for help!

thanks in advance, Engeeone
 

FinalImpact

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Are you saying the 12 or 14mm hex bolts that hold the grab bars (2 from the top, 2 from the side)? They are tight but nothing a little leverage won't solve. Place a large box end wrench over your ratchet for more leverage or use a 1/2" drive ratchet & socket.
 

Engeeone

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Yep - it's the 1/2" bolt, cheers. Have tried a wrench, WD40 and some serious prolonged any grunting! Still no joy...will update after I've been to the mechanic if it turns out I'm just a weakling!
 

Wearyeyed

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Strike the head with a punch and a good solid whack from a hammer, careful not to fold-over anything. The shock often breaks corrosion in threads free.
 

Engeeone

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Thanks all for your suggestions - I am going to try all of these and t hen maybe a combination of all too! Will let you know how i get on - thought sticking my new panniers on would be a day's work at tops! Grrrr!
 

greg

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just be careful not to snap the head off (rather easy if it's corroded in)

try applying some heat, or plus gas

i don't recall having a problem with any of the bolts whan I was fitting my givi rack though

one thing i would say is be very careful not to drop any bolts down the frame, ended up having to get givi to send me another one rather than take the subframe off :D
 
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04fizzer

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WD-40 is a joke when it comes to rusted hardware. It just doesn't work. What you need is something like Liquid Wrench, Thrust, or PB Blaster (depending on what you can find there).
 

teeter

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I hate suggesting people buy tools but maybe this will work. It has helped me out. Basically you hold tension by hand and smack it with a hammer. Works on a theory like a hand impact wrench.

Impact Screwdriver Set with Case

Great tool. Indispensable when changing brake rotors on a cage. It really shines with Phillips head screws because it only twists when a great amount of force is being exerted into the the screw head. Simply put.. bye bye stripped screw heads.

I've never tried it with sockets/bolts before though. Interesting..
 

04fizzer

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Great tool. Indispensable when changing brake rotors on a cage. It really shines with Phillips head screws because it only twists when a great amount of force is being exerted into the the screw head. Simply put.. bye bye stripped screw heads.

I've never tried it with sockets/bolts before though. Interesting..

Yeah, I don't know that it exists for use with sockets, though I suppose you could with that HF design. The Craftsman one is only good for Philips/flat screws.
 

teeter

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thought sticking my new panniers on would be a day's work at tops! Grrrr!

I hear ya! I'm starting to estimate my projects like this:

I take the expected time to completion and multiply by 3. Then I take the expected cost and multiply it by 2.

Works every time.
 

Engeeone

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Thanks guys . If anyone in the UK is following this, i've managed to find an impact screwdriver at Halfords for about twenty quid (maybe I'm showing my ignorance aobut tools not knowing about these already...)
 
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