Got my race tech .95 springs in, along with 15W oil. Just need to get a pipe cutter and adjust for sag.
Sent from my SGH-i677 using Board Express
Sent from my SGH-i677 using Board Express
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Race Tech springs are in!
- Thread starter Randomchaos
- Start date
Santa, is that you on the Fizzer???? :rockon: :rockon:
Get em on and get riding:thumbup:
The fork oil that came out absolutely REEKED! I about vomited at how bad it smelled. I also messed up like last time and filled the fork oil to 134mm from the top with the fork extended. When I got it back together, I was like hmmm something don't seem right lol. Who needs spiffy tools for measuring the fork level when you have a vice grip and a long screw driver!
Heh it does kinda look that way. Go go inflatable santa!
Speaking of santa and on the bike, I think this year I may need to get a santa suit and ride my bike around town on X-mas. Red bike, just cant pass it up!
Man, what a difference. The bike actually wants to hold a line now, rather than drift out. Sooo much better feedback from the front tire too. Now to upgrade the rear shock 
dpaul007
Junior Member
Was replacing the springs difficult at all? Any special tools needed? I'm wanting to change my fork oil over the winter and debating on whether to do springs, also.
Have to get the front week, brakes off, then the front fender. Loosen the triple clamp bolts and slide the forks out. Then its as simple as removing the for caps, pulling the stock spacer/washer out, and then the spring. Pour out old fork oil, make sure to pump the fork some while doing it to get it all out. The only special tool I needed was the vice grip/ screw driver combo to measure the for oil level while refiling. To cut the spacers, the best way is a roller style tube cutter, but a hacksaw or similar will work too. Make sure during re-filling you pump the fork to get the new fluid in there good. Also measure the oil level with the fork compressed all the way down, no springs or spacers in it. Getting the fork cap back on is not the easiest thing with the pre-load on the spring, but its manageable.
Once the forks are installed, to adjust pre-load you have to cut the spacer some more to reduce the pre-load, or add more spacer, like washers, to increase pre-load. Make the the front is off the ground before opening the fork cap. I also found it easier to work on with the bars removed from the clamp when adjusting pre-load.
Once the forks are installed, to adjust pre-load you have to cut the spacer some more to reduce the pre-load, or add more spacer, like washers, to increase pre-load. Make the the front is off the ground before opening the fork cap. I also found it easier to work on with the bars removed from the clamp when adjusting pre-load.
Ssky0078
Junior Member
I'm mad jealous. I was just about to do that to my bike in the next couple of weeks. The 0.95 kg/mm is exactly what I needed for my size too. Too bad I crashed this weekend.
Good luck finishing your project, it looks awesome.
Good luck finishing your project, it looks awesome.
Crashing = No good! How badly damaged are you/bike?
Not derail this thread as its clean, but a link to the story perhaps? Sorry. I was wondering what that "insurance comment" was about in another thread. Sorry. . . I have 08 forks for sale if you need them! :ban:
Well said!
Obviously, don't forget to loosen the axle bolt while the bike is on the ground being sure not to topple it! Pinch bolts 1st, then axle.
I found that during the "drain" process, allot of oil is trapped inside if you simply invert the forks. However, while up right, stroke them, and then invert them. Repeat several times. Once its mostly done draining, add some fresh oil and cycle that through and dump it. Pick up an extra qt just to flush with.
IMO - if you open the forks, go the extra mile and install the emulators! It will far outweigh any $100 cosmetic change. Think of it as "Invisa-bling!"
Ssky0078
Junior Member
Moved accident info to a new thread
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JoeSTL
Member
I changed the springs in my gs500 last year. It had 18000 miles on it and I don't think the oil was ever changed. It was disgusting. A year later, and I can still smell it! lol
To measure the oil level I marked off a battery filler and sucked out the oil that was below the level. Worked great and only cost me 2 bucks.
Read your post, glad your alive still!
I wish I could have gotten the emulators
.Next up is to upgrade the rear shock. Thinking I might try the R1 shock with a Racetech spring. Then its onto getting some SS brake lines, HH+ brake pads, black out a few more items, maybe the projector/HID retrofit, bellypan, seat cowl, leo carbon pipes, Power Commander... lol
Damn you modding bug!
