Oil light came on for a bit while I was being irresponsible. Should I worry about it?

[zixaq]

Was out on a very long, very flat, very empty piece of desert road this weekend with a few other riders and we had a little impromptu speed run.

Was pretty close to redline in 3rd and then 4th for quite a while, was contemplating shifting up again, but as soon as I hit one more digit indicated I got a red oil light and decided to roll off.

A few minutes cruising at a (relatively) lower speed and the light clicked back off and stayed off. Just rode 300+ miles home today with no issues, but I'm wondering what caused it to do that, if I should have done something different, and if there's anything I should check out now that I'm home.

 

[motojoe122]

Was out on a very long, very flat, very empty piece of desert road this weekend with a few other riders and we had a little impromptu speed run.

Was pretty close to redline in 3rd and then 4th for quite a while, was contemplating shifting up again, but as soon as I hit one more digit indicated I got a red oil light and decided to roll off.

A few minutes cruising at a (relatively) lower speed and the light clicked back off and stayed off. Just rode 300+ miles home today with no issues, but I'm wondering what caused it to do that, if I should have done something different, and if there's anything I should check out now that I'm home.

First thing that comes to mind is your oil level.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 ^^^^.

That light is NOT an oil pressure light BUT an oil level/height SWITCH / warning light.

If the level was lower and with the engine screaming, it is VERY LIKELY the engine oi
couldn't get back to the sump /switch fast enough and set off the switch...

 

[zixaq]

+1 ^^^^.

That light is NOT an oil pressure light BUT an oil level/height SWITCH / warning light.

If the level was lower and with the engine screaming, it is VERY LIKELY the engine oi
couldn't get back to the sump /switch fast enough and set off the switch...

Why would they give me an oil level light instead of an oil pressure light?

In any case, oil level is about 2/3 up the hashmarks when hot on level ground. No different than it was three days ago when last checked.

 

[ShoopCE]

Please be sure you used the right method to check the oil level. The owner's manual says to check with the bike on the center stand AND to put the cap/dipstick on top of the threads, not screwed in.The difference is about 3/4 of the hatched section of the stick.

Not sure why they'd use a level rather than pressure sensor. Maybe it gives an earlier warning n most cases.

Good Luck,
Chris

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Why would they give me an oil level light instead of an oil pressure light?

In any case, oil level is about 2/3 up the hashmarks when hot on level ground. No different than it was three days ago when last checked.

The engine should be warmed up for SEVERAL MINUTES (its in the owners manual) and then let sit for a minute.

As shoop posted, it should be on the center stand.

Re the design, ALL 04-09's have the exact same set up. If you want a pressure gauge, there's
a port on the left side of the engine you can tap in to...

I've NEVER read of low oil pressure on this forum in 7 years and doesn't seem to be an issue.

Folks not checking it correctly, (possibly NOT having it filled to the correct level) can have the light illuminate.

That has been posted but rarely...

Page 7-12, S2 owners manual.

Page 6-11, S1 owners manual

 

[zixaq]

On the center stand?

Both my owners manual and the service manual say to stand the bike on a level surface and "hold it upright". That implies no center stand to me.

 

[ShoopCE]

Hmmm,,, strange.

The service manual for a 2007 that I found mentions a stand but does not specify that you use the center stand.



The most important parts of the instructions are that the bike must be straight up, and that the dipstick should not be screwed in. I suspect that the reading will be a bit lower if the bike is on the center stand vs on both wheels because the dipstick is at the back of the engine and the rear of the bike will be slightly raised. This small difference really should not matter. Having the bike be straight up is critical. Keeping the dipstick cap on top of the threads will read about a half-inch closer to minimum than if it's down in the threads.

The owner's manual (in the section about the indicator lights) also notes that the level light might come on during periods of high acceleration, and says this is not a malfunction. (nearly normal?)

Anyway, I don't think anything was harmed. But I would add a bit of oil to bring it nearer to the top of the hashmarks on the stick, and then try it again - some place that's reasonably safe. (I am NOT saying that you were unsafe :thumbup

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The S1 owners manual says straight up and DOES NOT mention the center stand.

The S2 owners manual does specifically state the center-stand...


As long as the bike is directly upright, it'd be fine.

*Using the center stand there's NO possibility(unless your on an incline) of being off slightly or worse yet, DROPPING THE BIKE...

We're talking a couple of ounces, MAYBE....


For the OP, are you using a much heavier oil than recommended?
(IE, slower to return to the pan?)

 

[FinalImpact]

Hopefully level is correct and its a sensor issue. Unless the oil is getting stuck in the head which is very unlikely. Seen it happen on sludged up cage engines and they toast the bottom end from oil starvation.

If your valve cover gasket is seeping this could be sign of oil return issues. Not a strong one, but something to consider.

I know if that happened to me I'd be concerned and would not continue the practice any further untill I resolved the issue.
Mines been a 7 - 8 down the interstate for 45" and no light.

 

[zixaq]

Hmmm,,, strange.

Here is an image from the owner's manual for a 2007. The service manual for a 2007 that I found mentions a stand but does not specify that you use the center stand.


The most important parts of the instructions are that the bike must be straight up, and that the dipstick should not be screwed in. I suspect that the reading will be a bit lower if the bike is on the center stand vs on both wheels because the dipstick is at the back of the engine and the rear of the bike will be slightly raised. This small difference really should not matter. Having the bike be straight up is critical. Keeping the dipstick cap on top of the threads will read about a half-inch closer to minimum than if it's down in the threads.

The owner's manual (in the section about the indicator lights) also notes that the level light might come on during periods of high acceleration, and says this is not a malfunction. (nearly normal?)

Anyway, I don't think anything was harmed. But I would add a bit of oil to bring it nearer to the top of the hashmarks on the stick, and then try it again - some place that's reasonably safe. (I am NOT saying that you were unsafe :thumbup

I'm confident that I'm checking the oil properly according to the instructions, unless the slightly warm engine vs post-riding engine makes a massive difference, but even post-riding vs dead cold doesn't make that much difference (1/3 up the hashes instead of 2/3)

It was absolutely unsafe. There is no place within a hundred miles of me where I'd consider trying it.

The S1 owners manual says straight up and DOES NOT mention the center stand.

The S2 owners manual does specifically state the center-stand...


As long as the bike is directly upright, it'd be fine.

*Using the center stand there's NO possibility(unless your on an incline) of being off slightly or worse yet, DROPPING THE BIKE...

We're talking a couple of ounces, MAYBE....


For the OP, are you using a much heavier oil than recommended?
(IE, slower to return to the pan?)

Normal 10w40. I think I even used Yamalube last time, so it's literally factory spec.

You're right in that the center stand may not make a huge difference (or at least it would be a consistent difference), but there's really no risk of being substantially off or dropping the bike the way I do it. Much more likely to be slightly off-level on the centerstand than holding it. (If you can balance the bike with two fingers on the bar, it's straight up. )

Hopefully level is correct and its a sensor issue. Unless the oil is getting stuck in the head which is very unlikely. Seen it happen on sludged up cage engines and they toast the bottom end from oil starvation.

If your valve cover gasket is seeping this could be sign of oil return issues. Not a strong one, but something to consider.

I know if that happened to me I'd be concerned and would not continue the practice any further untill I resolved the issue.
Mines been a 7 - 8 down the interstate for 45" and no light.

Do you mean 7-8k rpm? Because my engine is basically never below 7k, and usually higher. I like to be in my torque band while splitting traffic. During the incident mentioned, it was nearly at redline at WOT for five minutes plus before the offending light came on. It turned itself back off after a couple minutes down at normal revs and hasn't been back on in the 400 miles since. Oil level didn't change, and there are no leaks or weeping that I can find.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a side note that may help and FI touched upon.

That oil level switch simply installs in the oil pan and is easily pulled.


In my 8HP Briggs and Stratton generator, it has a low oil level CUT OFF SWITCH, (similar to our bikes).
I lost spark in the engine about a year ago. Disconnected the switch and had spark (with plenty of oil).

Pulled the switch, it was "sludged" up, (PO never changed the oil). I cleaned up the switch (brake cleaner) and it worked correctly again (got spark back).
Guess the internal contacts were dirty...


You can check the oil pressure and verify it meets spec's.

You may simply replace your oil level switch (just to make sure).


I do still believe just the WOT, for the time you ran it, set it off.
Should it have activated the light? NO, not really, but you are running the engine at its limits ..

Would I screw with it or is there a problem, I wouldn't (but then I don't run the bike NEARLY that hard for that long either)...



.