Neutral Switch Leaking Oil?

[drumbum]

Hey all, so I started having trouble with my neutral switch (on the gears, not the clutch). It stopped lighting, I read that when its wet it doesn't work well. So I took a look and it was wet, but it looks like it is wet with oil... in fact it looks like its dripping oil!!

I'm about 90% sure the oil is coming from the switch itself. I cant verify it till the weekend since its hard to get through with the california carbon box and the coolant tank there in the way. So I was thinking about just buying a new switch, but then I started thinking......

Is there any way that oil could even leak from the neutral switch?? o.0

Thanks guys

 

[Motogiro]

The neutral safety switch is threaded into the engine case so it could leak from the threads as well as be defective and leak.

Here: http://www.ronayers.com/ELECTRICAL-1--C431651.aspx

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never pulled the switch but it has to have plastic inbetween the outside and inside or the assembly. Of course with heat/old age, plastic gets brittle/breaks. Yours leaking is the first of read of on the forum, but things wear out...

If you haven't touched it, and its suddenly leaking, I'd have a new switch ready to go back in as it likely cracked/broke internally.. A little bit of thread tape on the threads going back in wouldn't hurt.. As tight as it is in there, you don't want to do it twice...

BTW, the mid 60 to mid 70's GM cars (especially SB Chevrolet V8's) had a oil pressure switch at the rear of the block (near the distributor). Made of plastic and steel, it broke OFTEN, just old age. We picked up cars super cheap, the owners thinking the rear main seal was leaking big time. Put in a new $4.00 switch (looked aboiut the same as the FZ but bigger), no more oil leak, degrease it and sell it!!

Good luck and please post the outcome...

 

[drumbum]

Thanks for your help guys. This problem hasn't been seen on this forum ( though it popped up on a few others). I'll order the switch and get it in. I like the Teflon tape idea, that's pretty smart. I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes


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[7UPyours]

I would probably get a new washer for it as well

 

[fb40dash5]

I've never pulled the switch but it has to have plastic inbetween the outside and inside or the assembly. Of course with heat/old age, plastic gets brittle/breaks. Yours leaking is the first of read of on the forum, but things wear out...

If you haven't touched it, and its suddenly leaking, I'd have a new switch ready to go back in as it likely cracked/broke internally.. A little bit of thread tape on the threads going back in wouldn't hurt.. As tight as it is in there, you don't want to do it twice...

BTW, the mid 60 to mid 70's GM cars (especially SB Chevrolet V8's) had a oil pressure switch at the rear of the block (near the distributor). Made of plastic and steel, it broke OFTEN, just old age. We picked up cars super cheap, the owners thinking the rear main seal was leaking big time. Put in a new $4.00 switch (looked aboiut the same as the FZ but bigger), no more oil leak, degrease it and sell it!!

Good luck and please post the outcome...

Good old GM oil pressure switches. I've read (never seen, but read) of problems with them leaking to the point they practically inject hot oil up the wire. There were a few reports on identifix (a freaky problem repair database) of guys finding oil inside the PCM connector. :rof:

Just be careful with teflon tape, make sure it's all on the threads and wrapped the right direction so you don't get any stuck in an oil passage somewhere. Probably paranoid, but better than a blown engine.

 

[FinalImpact]

Although this application is not under direct assault from the oil pump, i'd prepare for replacement.
PN: 3GB-82540-01-00 NEUTRAL SWITCH ASSY

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/50116-2007-fz6-parts-reference-diagram-images-x46.html

Once oil gets past the shaft in contact with the shift rail, each activation works as a hydraulic pump pushing oil into the body until it begins to leak at the joints with no recovery.

 

[drumbum]

Well it was the neutral switch! I forgot to take a picture next to the new one but you can see this one is clearly broken. No idea how it happened but there was a nice little hole for the oil to escape from.

I put he new one in with some PTFE thread tape (I always call it Teflon but that's wrong) and the leaking is gone and my neutral switch comes on. So I'll call this repair a success. Pain to get to though. So I did a coolant flush since I was right there

Thanks everyone


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[Motogiro]

Well it was the neutral switch! I forgot to take a picture next to the new one but you can see this one is clearly broken. No idea how it happened but there was a nice little hole for the oil to escape from.

I put he new one in with some PTFE thread tape (I always call it Teflon but that's wrong) and the leaking is gone and my neutral switch comes on. So I'll call this repair a success. Pain to get to though. So I did a coolant flush since I was right there

Thanks everyone


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Great job and thanks for showing us what happened!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great job and thanks for showing us what happened!

^^ +1 on the above.

I'd put money on the plastic just broke down with age and heat as it is at the back of the engine where most of the engine heat will flow while underway.

It doesn't appear to be very heavy duty, kinda like the GM units of the old days (same thing, the plastic broke and leaked badly down the rear of the engine).

Congrates, you have a FIRST for the forum! (at least its a fairly easy fix) :thumbup:

**A quick note, just a dab of di-lectric grease on the tip before snapping back on the neutral wire will prevent and water from shorting out and activating your neutral light should it get wet (some folks have had that issue)

 

[drumbum]

Thanks Townsend... That dielectric grease thing is a smart idea. I should probably get some in there before the "rainy season" starts


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your very welcome, and Scott" please :thumbup: