Need Advice for Winterizing Bike

[rsw81]

Hey Guys,
It's coming up on my first real winter here in Boston and I'm looking to start planning on winterizing my bike for when the first snow fall occurs. Having never done this before, I was hoping some of the veterans here could give me some tips.

1) Obviously put bike up on front and rear stands to keep tires from squaring

2) What fuel stabilizer do you guys prefer? I understand to put it in on empty tank, fill 'er up, ride a few miles, and shut it down for the winter.

3) What battery tenders do you guys prefer? brand, model, etc. Also, I have no electrical outlets in my apartment's garage, so I'll need to bring the battery into my apartment all winter. Any issues/safety problems with doing that?

4) What else am I missing?

Thanks in advance guys.

Rob

 

[RJ2112]

I would add changing the oil, right before you store it. Make sure the tank is 100% full, with stabilizer in it to prevent issues.

It's a good time to change all the annual fluids, too.... brake fluid, suspension, etc.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on the above, especially keeping the gas tank topped off FULLY (to prevent rust). Some Seafoam in the tank would also help protect the inside of it.

Also, lube the chain, wax/clean the bike. Plug the end of the exhaust pipe if critters can get to it (and make a home inside). If you have a bike cover that breathes, cover it to keep the dust, crap off it.

For chargers I have both a battery tender and 2 BMW chargers (3 bikes). Never had a problem with either.

http://batterytender.com/motorcycle/battery-tender-plus-12v-at-1-25a.html The price has gone up quite a bit since I bought mine, shop around....

Or:

Park it in my garage and I'll keep it exercised thru the winter!

 

[LERecords]

well.. this is all good advise.. get some sort of battery tender.. give the bike a good wash and WAX before you put it up.. yes, get both tires off the ground and let out 1-2 psi out of each. (remember to fill them back up in the spring..) as for an oil change, i leave that up to you.. i have never done one bre for storage, as i didnt see the need, but its not like it would hurt it.. lube the chain and some of the other pivot points.. dont need to go nuts with it.. I have used "stabilize" in my gas tank, but make sure the tank is full up.. preferably, you want to go to the gas station, put in the stabilize, full it up, then go back home and the fuel/stabilize mix should be through the whole system... and a cover is never a bad idea.. i never pluged my exaust cans, but again its not a bad idea... as for a brand of tender.. i have a battery tender jr and its on for probably 2 hours a day when in storage (its on a timer, my dad's idea, but i have never needed a new battery, yet)... other than that.. your good to go.. :thumbup:

 

[rsw81]

Thanks guys, put my order in for Stabile and a Battery Tender Jr. Already own a cover and the lifts. I'll wash/wax it the day it goes to storage. Am I missing anything?

 

[LERecords]

cry a little due to the fact it will be months before you ride again.. :thumbup:

 

[bcityroller]

Maybe I'm risking some long-term maintenance payback but I don't really do anything except fill the tank, put it out of the elements (shed) and put the battery on the tender. Over the winter I go out and start it about once a month and let it get up to full operating temps. I also take it out and ride it if/when we get a Jan/Feb warm spell if the crap on the road gets washed off.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks guys, put my order in for Stabile and a Battery Tender Jr. Already own a cover and the lifts. I'll wash/wax it the day it goes to storage. Am I missing anything?

Make sure its COMPLETLY DRY before you put it up...

Changing the oil isn't a bad idea, if you have any contaminents/moisture in the oil, I wouldn't want it sitting in the crankcase all winter if its questionable. Fresh oil and a filter is cheap enough....

 

[paper]

I give the bike a fresh oil/filter change, a good dose of Seafoam in a full tank, and take the bike out for a 10 mile ride before putting it away.. It's a good idea to pull the battery, or at least give it a charge once a month..

Toss the bike on the center stand, and there's almost zero weight on the tires.

This year I'm cheating.. I've got some stuff I want to do to my bike and I don't have time right now because I want to enjoy every riding day that I can, while I can.. So the bike's getting stored in the back bedroom this winter. I don't have to worry about being cold when working on it.. I'm changing bars and other items, so I can take care of it on the off season..

 

[rsw81]

I give the bike a fresh oil/filter change, a good dose of Seafoam in a full tank, and take the bike out for a 10 mile ride before putting it away.. It's a good idea to pull the battery, or at least give it a charge once a month..

Toss the bike on the center stand, and there's almost zero weight on the tires.

This year I'm cheating.. I've got some stuff I want to do to my bike and I don't have time right now because I want to enjoy every riding day that I can, while I can.. So the bike's getting stored in the back bedroom this winter. I don't have to worry about being cold when working on it.. I'm changing bars and other items, so I can take care of it on the off season..

Would be nice to have a center stand... but I no longer have my FZ6. I'm on a Triumph these days.:rockon:

Never heard of SeaFoam... tell me more about this stuff. Is this another form of Stabile (ie a different brand)?

 

[paper]

Never heard of SeaFoam... tell me more about this stuff. Is this another form of Stabile (ie a different brand)?

SeaFoam is one of those snake oils that does everything, except it actually works.. :thumbup:

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment.html

The stuff is miracle in a can. I've had it (and others I know) turn a crappy running engine into a smooth running machine.. It's also a fuel stabilizer..

I stored all 5 bikes with it last November, and all started like I'd ridden them the day before, when I pulled them out of winter storage in late March. My snowblower was put away in March and will start on the 2nd pull in December, every time...

I was a skeptic.. I'm a believer only because it's worked perfect for me, every time.

Oh, and you can get it pretty much anywhere, including Walmart.

 

[mrtrees]

Hey Guys,
It's coming up on my first real winter here in Boston and I'm looking to start planning on winterizing my bike for when the first snow fall occurs. Having never done this before, I was hoping some of the veterans here could give me some tips.

1) Obviously put bike up on front and rear stands to keep tires from squaring

2) What fuel stabilizer do you guys prefer? I understand to put it in on empty tank, fill 'er up, ride a few miles, and shut it down for the winter.

3) What battery tenders do you guys prefer? brand, model, etc. Also, I have no electrical outlets in my apartment's garage, so I'll need to bring the battery into my apartment all winter. Any issues/safety problems with doing that?

4) What else am I missing?

Thanks in advance guys.

Rob

You mentioned that your apt garage doesn't have electricity. If you have a garage opener in it just split the outlet that one uses and use away! I did that last winter and was able to keep a space heater on it and the car engine as well, plus the tender. It gets really cold here so keeping the engines cold instead of frozen really made a difference. (especially for the car). Best part of all though....free electricity! Doesn't add to my utilities :rockon:

 

[Motogiro]

Depending on how cold you think it might get I would get an antifreeze tester and make sure you're protected below the temps you could get.

 

[Dennis in NH]

... I also take it out and ride it if/when we get a Jan/Feb warm spell if the crap on the road gets washed off.

I take my bikes out during Winter whenever there's a dry day and conditions are good. I'd like to add that I try to get home early enough that the temps are high enough for me to do a good wash to get any salty mess that got on there during the ride.

If it's really cold (during the wash), the brakes will freeze onto the rotor (believe me I know) -- I learned that in that case, just use a hairdryer to melt them.

Dennis

 

[Norbert]

SeaFoam is awesome. Good for your fuel system and injectors too.
Sea Foam - webBikeWorld
Remember that fuel stabilizer works by forming a film at the top of the tank, so the gasoline doesn't vaporize. So don't shake the tank around after using the SeaFoam.

I ride in the winter. I use something called Corrosion Block/ ACF-50 on my bike to protect it from salt and corrosion. The melting snow water mixed with salt is pretty nasty stuff! You can buy it at West Marine. Someone on this forum told me about it and after doing some research, I began using it. It is probably the best thing to protect your bike from corrosion. It is worth the expense and effort.

Corrosion Block, 12oz. Aerosol
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm
Bike Chat Forums : Advice needed please.
ACF-50
Corrosion Block Product Review

When riding in cold temps (below 40F), I lower my tire pressure by 3 psi, but no lower than 30psi. So in the summer I run 33/36psi. In the winter I run 30/33psi. This is for commuting or day trips, and not when I have a lot of luggage for touring.
Keep an eye on your tread wear when you lower your psi.

 

[rsw81]

You mentioned that your apt garage doesn't have electricity. If you have a garage opener in it just split the outlet that one uses and use away! I did that last winter and was able to keep a space heater on it and the car engine as well, plus the tender. It gets really cold here so keeping the engines cold instead of frozen really made a difference. (especially for the car). Best part of all though....free electricity! Doesn't add to my utilities :rockon:

This is a big under ground garage, not a private one car unit. I am right near the opener, but it would be pretty suspicious for me to tap into it. I'll just pull the battery and leave it in my bathroom on the floor.

 

[Dennis in NH]

...
I ride in the winter. I use something called Corrosion Block/ ACF-50 on my bike to protect it from salt and corrosion. The melting snow water mixed with salt is pretty nasty stuff! You can buy it at West Marine. Someone on this forum told me about it and after doing some research, I began using it. It is probably the best thing to protect your bike from corrosion. It is worth the expense and effort.

Corrosion Block, 12oz. Aerosol
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm
Bike Chat Forums : Advice needed please.
ACF-50
Corrosion Block Product Review

When riding in cold temps (below 40F), I lower my tire pressure by 3 psi, but no lower than 30psi. So in the summer I run 33/36psi. In the winter I run 30/33psi. This is for commuting or day trips, and not when I have a lot of luggage for touring.
Keep an eye on your tread wear when you lower your psi.

Hm... I am intrigued. So, you buy this stuff -- where and how much?, spray it on (probably on a clean bike) the underside so that you can ride through the Winter and wash after with no worries (or at least less worries) about corrosion?

I might have to give it a try. I'm thinking I could spray it on the underside of my bikes and anywhere I think salty water might enter and then clean the bike and re-apply in preparation for the next ride.

I'm also thinking to apply on car suspensions and undersides as they get exposed to road salt too.

Thanks for the tip,

Dennis

 

[Evitzee]

All good suggestions, but I doubt the need to change oil first. Just ride the bike before you intend to store it and get it up to full operating condition (20 miles at least). There should be no appreciable moisture in the system at this point. In the spring when you get it out of storage bring it up to temp again and THEN change the oil and filter.

 

[Norbert]

Hm... I am intrigued. So, you buy this stuff -- where and how much?, spray it on (probably on a clean bike) the underside so that you can ride through the Winter and wash after with no worries (or at least less worries) about corrosion?

I might have to give it a try. I'm thinking I could spray it on the underside of my bikes and anywhere I think salty water might enter and then clean the bike and re-apply in preparation for the next ride.

I'm also thinking to apply on car suspensions and undersides as they get exposed to road salt too.

Thanks for the tip,

Dennis

You can buy it at West Marine for about $20. It's pricey but worth it.
You can almost dip you bike in it, so I put it everywhere except the plastic (although it's fine on plastic), the windscreen, rims, brakes and rotors.
You can use it as dielectric grease too.

Unfortunately I couldn't find something other than the can, I've seen it applied using an atomizer on airplanes, which would make life easier for me. I just clean my bike and paint the Corrosion Block on using a paint brush (the bristle type, not the foam). Paint it all over and then wipe off the excess with a rag. You just want a thin film. Clean your chain and spray it on the chain, then put chain lube on top of that. You know that part of the tank under the seat that gets some rust? CB cuts right through that!!!!
The CB spreads, so be careful.

If you've ridden in salty conditions, go ahead and hose your bike down, the Corrosion Block will still stick to the bike. Dont go crazy with soap and scrubbing, though. You want that barrier to remain. Just do a quick rinse with cold water. Maybe you'll have to reapply it in some spots. When spring arrives, you'll see a layer of dirt all over your bike. Worry not! Beneath this layer, Corrosion Block is doing its job. :thumbup:
Now, break out the soap and scrub your bike down. That layer of dirt and Corrosion Block really takes some scrubbing to remove. Reapply for the spring and summer. Start the process over again before the winter. If you do things correctly, you only need to apply CB twice a year, with maybe some reapplying in some spots. These spots will probably be the exhaust headers, since the CB tends to burn off of those.

Read up on those links I posted.