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how to change coolant?

Sounds good buddy, thanks! I think I'm going to try and just remove the tank as running around town looking for something that might work seems like even more trouble :rolleyes:. 10-4 on the Pep Boy guys. I'll make sure its type 2. So first stop Epe Boys, second stop beer store for a sixer of a good IPA, and then to the parking lot! :iconbeer:
 
Blitzcraig: good choice on the beer (IPA). Now, as far as the coolant/anti-freeze goes, I know Prestone is ethylene glycol based. It goes for only $10 gallon (or $8 50/50 mix) at Walmart. I wouldn't go through the trouble of removing the overflow reservoir--just pump out old fluid. Suction pump or, as mentioned, old liquid soap pump. It's not worth the trouble to remove the reservoir tank (unless you really like disassembling/reassembling).
 
Aside from the Honda coolant posted, what other brands do you guys recommend? Did you do this coolant change with the center stand?
 
Ah, now that's a good idea with the soap pump! Think I have one of those. Ok, noted it is not worth the trouble to take it off. I just got back from Pep Boys and I got the Prestone 50/50. Took note NOT to get the Duramax, or whatever it was called. Of course now that I am at the bike I cannot get the radiator cap off (but just posed a new thread about that) Ugh.
 
Blitzcraig, just unscrew the small nut (8mm?) on the underside of the radiator cap. The other metal part comes off (note the position, it will only go back on one way) and then you turn counter clockwise the radiator cap in a two-step turn.
 
I use the Prestone - "Low Tox". It is safe to use at the track too, as it is propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol. Got it at Autozone for $15/gal - not deluted.
 
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It was pointed out to me from an engine mechanic last week that re-enforced my selection of coolant. Make sure the coolant you choose does not contain silicates. The silicates apparently can deposit on water pump seals, grind away and eventually cause the seal to leak.

I did a coolant flush this spring and ultimately decided on the Honda Type 2 coolant that is used in their automobiles and motorcycles, and.... it's a pretty bluish green color. :rolleyes:

I also came across this webpage which is a good read.

Choosing silicate free motorcycle engine coolant for Honda motorcycles

Holy Ba-Jeebus. That is a clean bike. :thumbup:
 
Most auto parts stores will recover it, and your local landfill should have a hazmat area as well.
 
Great thread on changing the coolant! The soap pump worked great...even rinsed the reservoir tank out using this method. Too cold to ride today, so decided to do a little maintenance.:thumbup:

Ah, now that's a good idea with the soap pump! Think I have one of those. Ok, noted it is not worth the trouble to take it off. I just got back from Pep Boys and I got the Prestone 50/50. Took note NOT to get the Duramax, or whatever it was called. Of course now that I am at the bike I cannot get the radiator cap off (but just posed a new thread about that) Ugh.
 
Never remove the fill cap when hot!

OK - lots of Good info in here and everyone is learning something which is Good!

But, Never Remove the Radiator Cap when the Bike is Hot! It will spray Hot Liquid all over you! Even a cool engine may retain pressure in the coolant system!

To check if the system has pressure, squeeze the hoses near the radiator. If they collapse easily, there is little to no pressure in the coolant system. Go ahead and remove the cap. :thumbup:
If they are hard as Rock, DO NOT Remove the Cap until the engine cools and hoses are easy to squeeze!
:thumbdown:

If any of the OP's can move this towards the beginning of the thread, please do!

Thanks and Be Safe!
 
Re: Never remove the fill cap when hot!

I used Peak Long Life 50/50 (it is silicate free as well) and no problems since I did it last summer. It is very light in color which is odd. Using a turkey baster made changing out the overflow tank much easier.
 
Just did a coolant change on my 2007 FZ6. I won't repeat what was previously posted, but I would add a comment about removing the reservoir tank on the 2007.

I noted that when removing the reservoir tank, the two bolts were tightened with RED Loctite (either dealer prep or factory I don't know) and were a pain to remove. I actually bent the bracket getting the inner bolt off... I had not changed my coolant previously so I wanted the reservoir tank off to completely clean it out otherwise I may have done the turkey baster trick.

I used the metal reservoir shield as a guide to bend the bracket back into the correct position so the reservoir tank and shield could be reinstalled.

It really is an easy job and I should not have been so lazy not doing it sooner.
 
So I recently changed the coolant on the 07 fz6 and wanted to note a few things to make it easier and a lot less time consuming.

First to everyone worried about the fluid spewing everywhere... If you gently loosen the screw when the engine is hot this will relieve the pressure in the system. Take the drain screw out. Then you can remove the radiator cap without leakage! When the cap is taken off (cold or warm engine) the coolant will shoot outta the drain hole so have your pail ready. Just watch out to not get burnt. This way you can flush and change the coolant in about 45 minutes. It took me three flushes and there was still a slight pigment to the water.

Some people were having trouble with the radiator cap and I did as well. When you turn it about 90 degrees counterclockwise it will loosen but not come off. You then need to turn another 90 or so degrees for the cap to fully release.

As far as the reservoir i took mine off to clean because i saw dust/dirt in it. This was a royal PITA!! The mounts bent and was hard to re-bend into shape. It helped when I took the large stainless bolt out of the reservoir side mount

I used a 89cent spray bottle top from Menards to fill/empty the reservoir after that and used the bottle part to add first the flushing water and after flushed I used the bottle's markings to get the Yamaha recommended 60/40 coolant/water mixture. The bottle neck being skinny was the perfect size to pour into the radiator cap without spilling or the need of a funnel.

I used peak long life coolant non premix because I wanted the 60/40 ratio. It is also silicate and phosphate free... good for all metals comes in a blue bottle also from Menards.

This is the first time I changed coolant in anything. Not bad at all most everyone with a small socket set should be able to do this. But I love doing my own maintenance so that might have made it better!!! Saves loads of money and you then know you have done it "the right way". Looking forward to springtime moddage!!!:cheer:
 
if you decide to flush it with water a couple times, make sure its with distilled and not tap.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
i know, i know. why do i do this.. quote from the service manual when changing coolant use distilled water, however, if none is availible soft water is ok. :ban:

id like to add that this is a really great thread. good info. got the service manual at boneman's site. thanks boneman.
 
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Hey, just wanted to say thanks for all the helpful information in this thread. It helped me through my first coolant change.

Question - If the old coolant that came out looked like coca cola, should I be worried or is there something not too serious that would explain that?
 
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