Help with 2004 fz6 fuel pump

Tylercriss502

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I have a 2004 fz6 was riding it pretty hard about a week ago and it suddenly died. Got to looking at it and the fuel pump wouldnt kick on. So i cut the wires to the fuel pump connector to test the pump by hooking 12v to it and it works. So i thought that maybe the starter cutoff relay was bad replaced that and still same thing then i replaced the main harness and still same issue no piwer to fuel pump. Gets spark and turns over but no power at fuel pump. Pump is good if hook 12v up to it it works. I need help this is a real headache i dont have the cluster to put in diagnostic mode. Please help. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

FinalImpact

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Replaced the whole harness??? True???? You did check the F/I fuse? 10A? It powers the pump and the ecu needs it.

Most likely scenario is the starter circuit relay. I know you replaced it, but the logic needs the blue/yellow trace from the ECU to go low to complete the circuit and enable the fuel pump section of the safety relay.

Options: unplug ecu and safety relay. Ohm blue/yellow verify it conducts from A to B and has no opens.
If this is true, now connect a 12v test lamp from Battery POS + to blue/yellow at relay. Turn key on (bike assembled) and see if lamp turns on? If it does, the logic to the ecu and relay are good. Now its a open somewhere else.

What is your skill set and tools available? Hand held meter and test lamp are needed.
 

Tylercriss502

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New to fuel injected bikes but 40 years exp on carbed jap bikes have all tools necessary to get the job done. And yes replaced the main harness
 

FinalImpact

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OK...
What about the ECU? All pins inspect as good? And what of the gauge? Is this engine in the FZ6 chassis?

You find any corrosion of connectors along the way?

Also, do you have the full history on this bike?

PS do a search either in this forum or the net for factory service manual all models pdf and you'll find a schematic for this. It includes trouble shooting steps. The S1 version vs S2 has no real changes that would impact this so either manual will work.

The ecu output is timed. As in, the key is on, if the crank sensor CPS does not detect rotation of the crank, it will time out and turn off when working properly.

Last little bit. Having a gauge would lets us know what error code is present. If the side stand creates error 19, all bets are off. Also #30 and 41 for the lean angle aensor will disable running. Although I think both of these would kill spark and injectors too.
Will it run if pump is powered remotely?
 
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Tylercriss502

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I have continuity from the relayy and ecu at the blue/yellow wire. But when i hook a test light up from battery to blue/yellow at relay no light???
 

Tylercriss502

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Injecrors are not firing so it will not run if fuel pump is wired remotely. Will crank if starting fluid is shot in throttle bodies but dies.instantly bc of no fuel
 

FinalImpact

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Ok you need to confirm both the side stand and lean angle sensors are working as intended.

Search JJD952 factory service manual.

Back to this; bike history please and is this in an FZ6 chassis? Was this bike stolen? I'm wondering why replace the whole harness....
 

Tylercriss502

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Yes its in an fz6 chassis. Bought the bike and previous owner loat the kwy tried to hot wire it and blew the starter utoff relay. Replaced that and its ran fine for a couple of months till this last incident. How do o test the lean angle and kickstNd? I know the bike s getting spark and turning over but no power at fuel pump or injectors
 

Tylercriss502

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I have a pdf manual for it. And for the wiring harness the exhaust burnt the harness by the starter cutoff relay and instead of going thru that cluster f*** and traxing wires i bought another main harness
 

Tylercriss502

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When i hook 12v ffrom battery to blue/yellow at relay via a test lamp with the key off the relay clicks and lamp lights. When i turn i key on nothing.
 

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Theoretically if the side stand circuit were compromised it would not crank. The lean angle sensor is under the right side pod. Perhaps it was damaged also??

From black to yellow wire should be 4.0v if upright. The failure mode does not align with your description.

Test lamp makes the relay click? It could w key off. That said, with a meter from ground to same wire, it basically always shows battery voltage. Correct?

You really need a gauge cluster to see what the ecu thinks.

After you measure the voltage w meter, move your test lamp from Batt + to battery "-" on that same wire and turn the key on. What happens?
 

Tylercriss502

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When i hook test lamp from battery to blue/yellow at relay with key off it test lights lights up and the relay clicks but when i cut the key on the light goes out
 

Tylercriss502

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When i hook the test lamp up from battery neg to blue/yellow at relay with key on the fuel pump comes on but stays on doesnt "prime" just stays on
 
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