FZ6 died while riding

[RedFZMenace]

As mentioned my 07 FZ6 died while on the road with a new battery. It sat all winter and the battery was to dead to revive so I got a new battery and it started just fine. Ran for about 50 miles and then it died on the road. Now the dash is dark when I turn the key on, no fuel pump, have 't disconnected anything or tested any relays, just curious what to start checking and what might be the cause. Key needs to be held towards the rider to turn it to ON and I had an issue where it wouldn't start but the dash and fuel pump worked last year and it ran after bump starting it. Other than that isolated incident it has run just fine. Over 50k.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Recharge the battery and then check the voltage at the battery at idle and at ~5000 rpm. The Stator should put out around 14vdc at idle and close to 15vdc at high rpm.

 

[RedFZMenace]

Recharge the battery and then check the voltage at the battery at idle and at ~5000 rpm. The Stator should put out around 14vdc at idle and close to 15vdc at high rpm.

I would if I could even get it started, the battery is holding a full charge. Key to the ON position just turns on the running lights, nothing else happens. The start button does nothing, the dashboard doesn't kick on, no tac sweep, no fuel pump, no headlights. I concur there could be a charging issue but I currently can't figure out why it isn't getting *any* power from the battery to critical systems. Only thing that gets power is the blinkers and tail light. Nothing else works.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Quote:

"Key needs to be held towards the rider to turn it to ON "

Moving / jiggling the key in the barrel is needed to get the machine to do anything?
(Even just running lights, etc?)


.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Got ya. It sounds like the contacts in the ignition barrel are worn or corroded. You can replace the barrel. If you are feeling adventurous, you can try to jump the wires at the connector - I’d have to study the schematic to figure out the sequence.

 

[RedFZMenace]

Quote:

"Key needs to be held towards the rider to turn it to ON "

Moving / jiggling the key in the barrel is needed to get the machine to do anything?
(Even just running lights, etc?)


.

Yeah there's a specific torque you have to apply to turn it from OFF to ON cause otherwise it won't turn.

Got ya. It sounds like the contacts in the ignition barrel are worn or corroded. You can replace the barrel. If you are feeling adventurous, you can try to jump the wires at the connector - I’d have to study the schematic to figure out the sequence.

I'll pull the ignition barrel, check it, and update this thread, I think you may be right but I'm still confused as to why it died on the road.

 

[Motogiro]

Interesting that the running lights work but the rest of the bike is dead because they are all from the same ignition switch source. Check the fuse block and check chassis grounds.
If the ignition switch keeps the running lights on there should be voltage to the fuse box. It almost sounds like multiple fuses are blown. Maybe look for chaffed harness wires under the seat?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

At the very least, your ignition switch is worn out. It'll only get worse and eventually not turn.

The main connector to the harness, as I re-call, was under the battery.

I had the same issue (just not turning, no running issues) and had to replace the switch and re-key everything else
to match the ignition..



.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Interesting that the running lights work but the rest of the bike is dead because they are all from the same ignition switch source. Check the fuse block and check chassis grounds.
If the ignition switch keeps the running lights on there should be voltage to the fuse box. It almost sounds like multiple fuses are blown. Maybe look for chaffed harness wires under the seat?

Looking at the schematic, The main switch brings power to:

1. The ECU
2. The fuse block and relays (power for lights, fuel pump...)
3. Start Circuit Cut-Off Relay

So if the contacts are wonky, it is very possible to get power to 2, but not 1 & 3...or any other combo.

 

[Motogiro]

Looking at the schematic, The main switch brings power to:

1. The ECU
2. The fuse block and relays (power for lights, fuel pump...)
3. Start Circuit Cut-Off Relay

So if the contacts are wonky, it is very possible to get power to 2, but not 1 & 3...or any other combo.

This is true. There is one feed to 4 of the fuses that feed the kill switch and all that runs off that, the brake and horn fuse, headlights and running lights/flasher. Headlight will not come on till after the motor has started. Now I'm thinking the main fuse or assembly is suspect. Check the main fuse and connections at the top of the battery where the starter relay lives.

 

[Motogiro]

Any news?

 

[RedFZMenace]

Any news?

Main fuse OK, 10A ignition fuse was blown, other fuses OK, replaced Ig fuse and she starts right up now. Any ideas why the ignition fuse would pop? I'm kinda scared to ride it now, don't want to get stuck on the side of the road again.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Fuses can blow for a number of reasons; from a short (dead or intermittent) to a fatigued fuse. I would carry an extra fuse to be safe, but I’d also inspect the main power circuit for a wire that shows signs of shorting.

 

[RedFZMenace]

Fuses can blow for a number of reasons; from a short (dead or intermittent) to a fatigued fuse. I would carry an extra fuse to be safe, but I’d also inspect the main power circuit for a wire that shows signs of shorting.

Sounds good, thank you everyone. I'll update this thread if I have any more problems

 

[Motogiro]

The kill switch is on that fuse. Check your wiring harness at the steering where it bends. The wiring could be shorting in that harness. We once had a member that had pinched the harness at the triple steering stops and was popping that fuse.

 

[agf]

Yeah I echo what Clif says about the wiring around the triple. I had a wonky headlight that would go out when I least wanted it to. Turned out there was some chafing and shorting that ended up melting the H4 lamp holder. replaced that with spade connectors in the short term thinking it was the main issue as it was what I could see evidence of. Anyway the light keep going out and was worse on full lock so I could see when the wiring loom had most strain on it. Undid all of the tape and found the culprit. Wired in a fresh H4 lamp plug and everything was hunky dory. Learnt that with electrics you cant take anything for granted.