GARGOYLES in my 6!!

TownsendsFJR1300

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+1,

That dial gauge HAS TO BE 90 degrees (or as close as possible) to the shaft for an accurate reading. .

It appears to be along side it (maybe just the camera angle)...

It also looks like there may be enough room to get it up in there if you place it verticle, just below the main frame.

If possible, have it point straight down with the end of the dial indicator on the top edge of the shaft, preferably towards the end of the shaft..
 
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FinalImpact

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I'd be stuffing a bunch of rags/paper towels all around where your doing that clean up/grinding ASAP.

What ever grit comes off is going to get circulated thru out your engine.

Less worried about grit - MORE worried about the Bristles that tend to fly out of said device!

A file or chisel would be my choice if the suspect area is actually raised by the addition of aluminum. If not raised, a new approach is needed.

Good luck!
 

warrencycle

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I have rags shoved in and aroumd but took them out to inspect them for debris. I was not grinding here. Just want to show how n what tool I was using. Also plan to do a flush and good rinse out before I throw ot back together. I honestly am losing hope that any of this is goin to work. Looking for used R6 motors now. Bout the same cost as a new crank.

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TownsendsFJR1300

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Less worried about grit - MORE worried about the Bristles that tend to fly out of said device!

A file or chisel would be my choice if the suspect area is actually raised by the addition of aluminum. If not raised, a new approach is needed.

Good luck!

I don't believe its a wire brush but a thin grinding wheel. GRIT will get into the oiling system(and bearings) MUCH faster than than a bristle and definitly do more damage, especialy to the rod/main bearings...

Warren, If it was covered up, please disregard the above.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Yep, that'd be a PIA, but its a lot cheaper and easier than another crank.

Being that aluminum is softer that the gear, definitly either pick at it or gently use a sharp screewdriver and gently tap at that build up...

Did you ever get the dial indicator at 90 degree's on both shafts, the outcome? All pretty much true?
 

warrencycle

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Yep, that'd be a PIA, but its a lot cheaper and easier than another crank.

Being that aluminum is softer that the gear, definitly either pick at it or gently use a sharp screewdriver and gently tap at that build up...

Did you ever get the dial indicator at 90 degree's on both shafts, the outcome? All pretty much true?

True story. Yes I did they both came out good. So my last and only option would be to clean that gear up. Took a break after that pic, and put in some work on my custom harley exhaust. Making a Scrambler out of my 2012 Softail Slim.

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FinalImpact

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So after the last deburring & cleaning, what came of the sounds? Did you get it back together?

[MENTION=24784]warrencycle[/MENTION]
 

warrencycle

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So after the last deburring & cleaning, what came of the sounds? Did you get it back together?

[MENTION=24784]warrencycle[/MENTION]

I got distracted with puting mid controls on my Softail. I haven't done anything to it since the last post.

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warrencycle

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View attachment 52380

This is what ive been building the past two months. Waiting on a few parts for this still then I get back on the Yamaha. Ive narrow the issue to the crank driven gear and I have started to clean it up.

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warrencycle

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So, I have sanded, grinded, filed, scraped, and thought about conducting an exorcism, this thing is not improving. Im at my wits end with. A buddy offered me 2Gs for it as long as I help him install the R6 engine he buys to put in it. Probably gonna cut my losses and find a new project.

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TownsendsFJR1300

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Just a thought.

It would be considerably easier and cheaper to replace the engine with a stock FZ engine. (There is another thread with an R6 conversion and it was VERY extensive)..

And if your going to replace the engine anyway, run it till it gets worse. Eventually, what ever is bent, or ?, will get worse and show itself. Wether its the gear box, crank, whatever, you then either fix it if feasable or know what can be parted out (and re-coup some $) .
 
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