Dyno tune with CO adjustment Leo Vince

[krid80]

I instaled Two Brothers in my bike and I want to do the CO adjustment... I'm from Brazil and my factory configuration is C1 0 and C2 0. Will I have any risk (lower mileage or something like this) if I do this adjustment???

Thanks...

It will not dramatically impact your fuel economy but is highly recommended due to the bike needing more fuel to not run too lean.

 

[Morcs]

2006 Yamaha FZ6 with Leo Vince exhaust with cat eliminator, db killers out.

Run 6 (+24 C1 and C2) - 95.79hp

we use a dynojet brand dynamometer.

I had mine ran on a dyno today.

Its an 04, Leovince exhaust with cat elim, db killers out, +24 C1 and C2, Airbox mod.

On a dynojet dealers dyno, 85.5hp?

Runs fine. Derriaire dyno says It makes good power. Must be the brand of dyno itself. Was really looking forward to how the figures compared.

 

[Wildcard]

btw everyone, I wasn't thinking too much about it, but I realized that c0 is probably standing for closed LOOP mode. It actually make sense to me.

 

[StarWing]

So I went on the dyno.
My C1 and C2 are now +20 both.

He said they used to set the inner ( 2 - 3 ) cilinders richer with carb's, but not anymore. It's a respected Yamaha dealer, so I don't think he's bull****ting me.

At the end I had:

96.8 Hp and 62.8 Nm @ the back wheel.

Was tested on a Dynojet dyno.

Couldn't really test it today as it was raining like a mofo

Speedy, where did you do the dyno-run ? (I'm from Aalst )
Also, does the adjustment of the CO flattens out the dip in mid-range rpm ?

 

[Speedygonzales]

Motorschop Gent, Hundelgemsesteenweg.

But you can also go to Lammens I guess, he's located in Wetteren.

The dip wil stay the same, cause with the CO adjustments you give the whole rpm range the same amount. You can't finetune between 4000 and 6000 rpm for example.
If you want to get rid of the dip, get a PCIII of Rapidbike.
Rapidbike is better, because you can adjust the co every 250 rpm ...
A PC every 1000 rpm ( I think ).

It wil get rid of the on-off feel as wel from what I heard.
I might get a rapidbike, but it's +- 800 euro's with the tune on the dyno.

 

[v1jay]

Hello everyone,

Though i chime in on this - I have a UK spec 2006 FZ6N, Leo’s fitted without db killers, minus Cat, and a K&N filter. My stock values were C1 = -12 and C2 = 16. My adjustment was +20 on both C1/C2, so now making it C1 = 8 and C2 = 36 [was this correct?]

Run 1 – Stock, no adjustment – Max Power 93.94 Max Torque 44.03
Run 2 – With +20 adjustment – Max Power 94.30 Max Torque 44.06

We basically stopped here, because the guy doing the Power Run said changing the C1\C2 values was not making a difference in HP. My bike was producing a little more HP after each Dyno Run Without any adjustments [it took a couple of Runs to get to 93ish btw]... The guy was saying, some engines do produce a tiny bit more HP after a slight thrashing - like for example on a Dyno..

It would be interested to see - After making your C1\C2 adjustments [whatever they may be], get your best reading and then Revert back to whatever stock values your bike came in as. Perform another Power Run and then compare readings again. By then, hopefully your machine would off had a good few runs on the DynoJet and enough readings to make decent comparisons.

vj

p.s. My bike runs slightly rich but safe, according to the engineer...

 

[g8anos]

Hello everyone,

greetings from Greece ...

First of all, i wanted to thank you because this thread really opened my eyes ... You guys rock !!!

I recently installed the Leovince exhaust system , with the cat-eliminator pipe, and combined it with the BMC air filter ...

It was obvious that the bike was running lean, i could hear the exhaust doing bang-bang, especially when decelerating from high rpm's

I didn't know that there was an build in oem fuel management system in my bike, and everyone was talking about PCIII to correct the mix

I did the steps on my fz6 naked '05 and it worked! The default setting was C1:-2
C2: 8

so i added +20
C1:18
C2:28
I did a few miles accelerating and decelerating hard, the bangs from the exhaust were greatly reduced! And the bike felt more powerful and smooth.But there were a few bangs
so i added another +4
C1:22
C2:32
I didn't had much time to experiment, but i think i reached almost optimum.
No more bangs from the exhaust(i just heard 1 or 2), the bike felt much more alive and powerful.

So i think that i just stay with +24 C1 and C2

Is C2:32 maybe too much? Does it run now too rich?

 

[krid80]

rich is safer than lean, I don't think +24 is too much.

Ride on

 

[krid80]

just dynoed again at 18,300 miles and here are the results.

had to take fuel out to gain power back this time. probably due to the cold weather.

 

[CrazyBiker]

what is the mpg with these adjustments? I have the realized the best pc3 map is sometimes also the most efficient one in terms of mpg.

 

[krid80]

mpg doesnt change any noticable amount.
38-52 depending on how i am riding

 

[jackay]

Wow what an interesting thread I'm reading here. Definitely gonna give this a go when I get my new exhaust on my 07

Now...I just need to find a little wire to help me out

 

[krid80]

Wow what an interesting thread I'm reading here. Definitely gonna give this a go when I get my new exhaust on my 07

Now...I just need to find a little wire to help me out

Actually, you won't need any wire at all! The World bikes have the ever elusive CO mode unkocked from the factory. Only the US bikes (possibly Canada too???) have to run the jumper wire to unlock the feature. Go try it on your bike!

Hold both buttons with the key turned off, count to three then turn the key on but keep holding those buttons until you see "diag" on the screen. Next, press select and see if "CO" is displayed. If so, you have it all ready to go! Once"CO" is displayed, press both buttons and hold until the display reads "C1 0". To get in to modify settings (or to write down your factory settings) hold both buttons again. As it goes into adjustment mode you may hear a "click" come from the throttle body area (normal). This displayed number may be anything but will be in this format "C1 14" although your number will likely not be 14. In "C1" or "C2" adjustment mode, select will raise the number displayed (adding fuel) while reset will lower the number (removing fuel).

Once you are done with "C1" press both buttons to back out to where it will display "C1 0" then press select to switch to "C2 0". Again, press and hold both buttons until you see "C2 26" (or whatever your preset number may be). As before, select will raise the number while reset will lower.

To save your settings, press and hold both buttons (two to three times) until you are back out to the display only showing "CO" (the very first screen) then turn the key off.

Done! Every time I have dyno tuned using this method, I have found that the best setting usually is 25-40 ticks from factory so don't move it 3-5 digits and think you made a huge change. The dyno chart I posted just a few posts back on this thread was about a 35 point adjustment to lean it out! The last time I dyno tuned it was 100 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity. This cold weather required me to take out fuel likely because of the factory computer auto richening from the IAT sensor.

Hope this helps... and hit that rep button like it's going out of style.

 

[jackay]

Actually, you won't need any wire at all! The World bikes have the ever elusive CO mode unkocked from the factory. Only the US bikes (possibly Canada too???) have to run the jumper wire to unlock the feature. Go try it on your bike!

Hold both buttons with the key turned off, count to three then turn the key on but keep holding those buttons until you see "diag" on the screen. Next, press select and see if "CO" is displayed. If so, you have it all ready to go! Once"CO" is displayed, press both buttons and hold until the display reads "C1 0". To get in to modify settings (or to write down your factory settings) hold both buttons again. As it goes into adjustment mode you may hear a "click" come from the throttle body area (normal). This displayed number may be anything but will be in this format "C1 14" although your number will likely not be 14. In "C1" or "C2" adjustment mode, select will raise the number displayed (adding fuel) while reset will lower the number (removing fuel).

Once you are done with "C1" press both buttons to back out to where it will display "C1 0" then press select to switch to "C2 0". Again, press and hold both buttons until you see "C2 26" (or whatever your preset number may be). As before, select will raise the number while reset will lower.

To save your settings, press and hold both buttons (two to three times) until you are back out to the display only showing "CO" (the very first screen) then turn the key off.

Done! Every time I have dyno tuned using this method, I have found that the best setting usually is 25-40 ticks from factory so don't move it 3-5 digits and think you made a huge change. The dyno chart I posted just a few posts back on this thread was about a 35 point adjustment to lean it out! The last time I dyno tuned it was 100 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity. This cold weather required me to take out fuel likely because of the factory computer auto richening from the IAT sensor.

Hope this helps... and hit that rep button like it's going out of style.

Thanks for the steps. I had a quick go at it this afternoon after work and got into the menu with ease. Now, I just have to wait for my Leo Vince to arrive Do the Leo come with cat eliminator as standard?

And my preset values are both 0, so pretty easy to remember for me if I ever wanna change it back! Thanks for the tip mate!

 

[Speedygonzales]

Yup de-cat pipe is standard with Leo :thumbup:.

 

[OZXJR]

I changed my CO readings yesterday,both C1 and C2 both up 20 .
A lot less popping on decel. and the idles is not as rough.
I run the Leo's with cat eliminator too.

 

[Wavex]

Interesting thread!

I am going to be the only a-hole as usual, but my understanding is that each bike is tuned at the factory, which is why each bike as it's own stock CO settings... randomly using someone else's values on your bike is not a good idea imo, even if you did the same mods...

krid did the right thing, which was to dyno his bike, but between all the various test he did with different CO adjustments, there were virtually no performance changes (2% of variance is less than the dyno's margin of error I am sure), and while peak HP is important, adjusting your CO values doesn't only impact the peak HP... it impacts the the FI over the whole rpm range...

Experimenting is fun, but ppl reading this thread should understand that it isn't recommended to plug random CO values and use your butt dyno to determine whether it did any good to your bike's engine performance and reliability...

Just my $.2... keep going

 

[krid80]

Interesting thread!

I am going to be the only a-hole as usual, but my understanding is that each bike is tuned at the factory, which is why each bike as it's own stock CO settings... randomly using someone else's values on your bike is not a good idea imo, even if you did the same mods...

krid did the right thing, which was to dyno his bike, but between all the various test he did with different CO adjustments, there were virtually no performance changes (2% of variance is less than the dyno's margin of error I am sure), and while peak HP is important, adjusting your CO values doesn't only impact the peak HP... it impacts the the FI over the whole rpm range...

Experimenting is fun, but ppl reading this thread should understand that it isn't recommended to plug random CO values and use your butt dyno to determine whether it did any good to your bike's engine performance and reliability...

Just my $.2... keep going

This is good advice to a point. We have run hundreds of dyno runs on three different Yamaha's (my FZ6, a R6, and a Road Star 1700) all using CO mode. We have gone to the max rich and max lean on both C1 and C2 settings and neither the max rich and max lean are in the danger zone, they are just not near optimal for use. I was talking to our Yamaha Corp. Service rep today about the CO mode and DIAG mode operation after he gave a 2 hour seminar on FI and diagnosing running problems using the onboard diagnostics. He informed me that most closed loop bikes (2007 and newer on the FZ6's) only use the O2 sensor for warmup, idle and steady throttle but any other times, (decel, accel etc) the map is used. He also didn't want to talk much about CO mode because Yamaha officially doesn't condone installing non approved modifications to the intake or exhaust as it messes with "their perfect maps." LOL. He also found it interesting that we had a measurable gain on the dyno and that he hadn't heard of people dynoing while adjusting CO. Seems like a no-brainer to me especially since our shop has a dyno and dyno+wideband=truth!

Wavex is right, though, and if you can find a dyno, please use it! If you are close enough to the St Louis area, we dyno for CHEAP! But, if not, don't be too afraid adjusting your CO, as we have found it to not make dangerous level changes (only fine tuning) but don't come crying to me if you adjust without a wideband and dyno and something bad happens.

 

[bergj1986]

I have read through every page of this thread and am still confused as to:

1. The location of the connector that requires modification
2. What was used to ground the connector
3. Is there already a wire with a pin attached where you want to add the ground?

I checked on Radioshack's website and all that comes up when searching for DB9 is a DB9 connector for a computer. I'm assuming you found the pin you used for grounding the connector in those slide-out drawers.

 

[krid80]

I have read through every page of this thread and am still confused as to:

1. The location of the connector that requires modification

This is under the fuel tank. You can either remove it all together, or prop it up to access. The plug is in the rear space near the hinge.

2. What was used to ground the connector
3. Is there already a wire with a pin attached where you want to add the ground?

I used a 16awg wire with a ring terminal on one end and a d-sub pin on the other end. The wire must be made as it is not included in the factory (US Spec) harness.

I checked on Radioshack's website and all that comes up when searching for DB9 is a DB9 connector for a computer. I'm assuming you found the pin you used for grounding the connector in those slide-out drawers.

Correct, I bought a DB9 connector with male pins and only used one of the pins (but I had 8 spares in case I screwed up). I then grounded the ring terminal using the rear brake reservoir mount.

Hope this clarified the situation.