Doing 2003 R6 fork seal and oil change, cannot get dampening assembly out.

[upshiftoverdrive]

Hi guys, today I am changing the seals, wipers, and oil on my R6 forks. I have completely dissasembled them apart from the seals themselves and the dampening assembly and bolt. ( I have removed the dampening rod)

When I try to unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the forks for the assembly it just turns roughly and does not come out or release the dampening assembly. I cannot remove the bolt on either of the forks.The metal dampening rod housing turns when I turn the bolt on the bottom, it does not make a difference if I hold the rod with my foot so it doesn't turn while I loosen the bolt.

I cannot "break" the leg and stanchion tube with the slide hammer method at this point either.


Am I missing something?

Here is the video tutorial that I am following : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNuL3fd8uMg

Unscrewing the dampening assembly happens at about 2:18.





Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[FinalImpact]

An easy solution is large round wood dowel cut in half with a band saw. You need them each to be 15" long. Insert them round side out touching the stanchion tube.

There is a metal clip on top, try not to bend it. Your goal is to wedge the square shank and stop the spinning.

You can also use metal tools too like two large srew driver/pry bars.
It is the inside of the stanchion and it would be hard to damage but you need a strong wedge like force from both sides and you can remove the bolt with ease.

 

[ANLR21]

I used a 10mm hex wrench in an impact drill, holding the stanchion tubes firmly (but not tight) in a worktable-mounted vise. I had tried several things, this worked the best for me. The key as FinalImpact (got my R6 forks from him) notes above is to jam the assembly just enough to allow you to unscrew the bolt, or in my case, sneak up on it with an impact gun.

 

[major tom]

I've ruined fork tubes clamping them in a vise. Motionpro has aluminum blocks for this

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Thanks for the advice. I ordered some Hex key bits to mount in my impact. I really don't have to jam the assembly from the inside if I am using an impact though right?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes. Or buy the right tool for the job. If you spin it too much the plastic cup in the fork tube could be damaged.
Once you wedge it, all is well and it unthread.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Yes. Or buy the right tool for the job. If you spin it too much the plastic cup in the fork tube could be damaged.
Once you wedge it, all is well and it unthread.

Basically anything long enough to fit down in there between the notches I can use? How easy is it to damage that assembly?

 

[JamJar13]

Hi, all you need is a "rattle gun" Ryobi or air or something similar will do, just apply some pressure to the fork leg so that the spring is compressed as much as you can and then undo the bolt using the rattle gun. You don't need a vice or clamps or anything else. You do it up again the same way. I have done this job on my FJR1300.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I ordered some Hex key bits to mount in my impact.

You can simply cut down and allen key (with a cut off wheel), clean up the end, fit it in a socket and go to work...

Good luck.

 

[FinalImpact]

A hardwood is safe. I pulled apart a damaged fork for a guy using two angled prybar like screwdrivers. They didnt leave a mark on anything.

 

[MattR302]

Hold the lower tubes in a vise by the caliper mount tabs, not the round portion.
Use an impact wrench and it will spin the bottom bolt right out. I cut the short L end of a 10mm Allen key, then use a 10mm socket with the remainder.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Thank you for the help everyone.

So I got my hex drill bit keys today. I attempted to put pressure on the dampening rod and spin the bolt loose with my impact, however the bolt would still not come loose.

After searching through the garage trying to find something jam down into the fork to stop the assembly from spinning I came across these campfire skewers!



Both rods fit nicely in between the stanchion tube and dampener canister, keeping mind of the fragile clip on the top that needed to be avoided.

Worked wonders! Forks are back together and ready to go.