R6 Fork Spacer isn't fitting... Please Help!

[Magruder13]

So I'm trying to do the R6 fork mod and I got the spacers from dako81 and they looked awesome. I got the forks on and calipers swapped over only to find the spacers not being big enough. With the wheel and axle installed I still have a 5-8mm gap between the spacer and inside edge of the fork. I have the axle pushed in all the way flush on the outer right side (facing the bike) edge of the fork and the axle is completely through and sticking out the other side of the left fork. If I tighen down the axel bolt all the way it doesnt even come flush with the fork leg let along close the gap at all. Pictures proved at the following link. Does anyone have any idea why I would have this gap? I have no way of torquing the bolt down to make it fit either. I can slide the axel out to the right a little and torque down the bolt, see if it compresses it but I think that would be a bad idea....

Pictures located here (higher quality than posting on this website)

R6 Fork Swap - Album on Imgur

 

[ShoopCE]

Mac,

I think the problem is not with the axle but with the orientation of how you put the spacers on the axle.

The larger diameter end of the spacers should be towards the fork leg and the narrower part should be towards the shoulder of the bearing on the wheel. From your photo, the next to last one, it looks like you have the larger end towards the wheel and the smaller end towards the fork leg. Remember that one of the bushings is marked to go on one specific end of the axle. I've forgotten which one.

The axle is not quite 1/2" shorter than would be needed to fit flush with both of the outer surfaces of the forks. That's OK because both ends will still be held firmly when you tighten the pinch bolts.

Good luck!

Chris

 

[Magruder13]

Mac,

I think the problem is not with the axle but with the orientation of how you put the spacers on the axle.

The larger diameter end of the spacers should be towards the fork leg and the narrower part should be towards the shoulder of the bearing on the wheel. From your photo, the next to last one, it looks like you have the larger end towards the wheel and the smaller end towards the fork leg. Remember that one of the bushings is marked to go on one specific end of the axle. I've forgotten which one.
Chris

The spacer with the indent on the inside goes on the right (when facing the bike), I have it in the correct spot, also in the 2nd to last picture I do have the larger end towards the fork side and smaller is mounted wheel side. it's hard to see with the bearing dust cover installed.

 

[FinalImpact]

For the sport of it, reference is always from the driver/rider position. Anything else is confusion.

Unlike the stock FZ forks the Axle enters from the other side so the bolt is on the RS and step part of the axle is on the left. That said, the spacer with the recess goes on the stepped section of the axle which is also on the left (i.e. clutch lever side).

When assembled propperly the bolt side (RS) will have a noticable gap where the axle is say 10mm recessed in the fork.
Also, snug the bolt to a firm hand tight, tighten the pinch bolts while holding the forks together and finally, tighten the axle nut to spec. as the last step.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The axle is usually torqued FIRST, without snugging down the lower fork pinch bolt (it'll alter the actual torque value).

The forks are then usually pushed up and down on the ground so the fork legs find thier own happy location. Forcing them together for no reason is NOT recommended.

From page 4-9 in the S2 Yamaha shop manual;

Tighten:
• Wheel axle
• Wheel axle pinch bolt
CAUTION:

Before tightening the wheel axle nut, push
down hard on the handlebar(s) several
times and check if the front fork rebounds
smoothly.
4. Install:
• Brake calipers

 

[Magruder13]

Okay, so I installed the brake calipers with the spacers in and I have constant rubbing of the brakes. I think it's because the forks are not clamped down inward so the inside pads are dragging on the inside of the disks. This is good, this points to a "short" axle, I hope! Also with the brakes installed and pads inserted the gap on both sides of the wheels looks equal.

I measured the spacers that were in mine originally, ~18mm, does anyone have their stock spacers to measure?

More Images showing gaps

 

[motojoe122]

I snapped a couple pics.
Facing the bike... Left side.

Facing the bike.... Right side.



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[Magruder13]

Okay, so I installed the brake calipers with the spacers in and I have constant rubbing of the brakes. I think it's because the forks are not clamped down inward so the inside pads are dragging on the inside of the disks. This is good, this points to a "short" axle, I hope! Also with the brakes installed and pads inserted the gap on both sides of the wheels looks equal.

I measured the spacers that were in mine originally, ~18mm, does anyone have their stock spacers to measure?

More Images showing gaps

For the sport of it, reference is always from the driver/rider position. Anything else is confusion.

Got it!

When assembled propperly the bolt side (RS) will have a noticable gap where the axle is say 10mm recessed in the fork.

I'm not trying to be an ass, but show me where I'm installing incorrectly, my axle is just too long!

The axle is usually torqued FIRST, without snugging down the lower fork pinch bolt (it'll alter the actual torque value).

The forks are then usually pushed up and down on the ground so the fork legs find thier own happy location. Forcing them together for no reason is NOT recommended.

This makes perfect sense because that's how the stock system is put together and allows it to settle and straighten before being tightened. However I cannot do that because my axle is too long!

Anyone want to pull out their axle and tell me the length so I can know if mine is correct? If it's not then I've got some type of aftermarket wheel installed, maybe aftermarket bearings? If that's the case then my spacers are not stock and measuring them will tell me the truth! Anyone have a measurement of their stock spacers?

 

[Magruder13]

Why does it take so long for posts to show up? I posted 30 minutes ago and I still don't see my post... It is currently 5:33, lets see what the time stamp is of this post.


Anyway, I just went out and slid the axle out the left side of the bike about half an inch, enough to let me clamp down on the forks and get them together. PRESTO! My brakes freed up, the wheel spins good, forks bounce fine, but now I'm using 1 inch less of the axle, I don't like this, I'd rather cut the axle down half an inch on the thread size so I can get more meat under the forks (this is not my plan).

I measured the complete length of the axle, just over 9.75 (+-1/16) inches (I don't have a micrometer that large). I can't find a measurement online of what it should be...

 

[FinalImpact]

The axle is usually torqued FIRST, without snugging down the lower fork pinch bolt (it'll alter the actual torque value).

The forks are then usually pushed up and down on the ground so the fork legs find thier own happy location. Forcing them together for no reason is NOT recommended.

From page 4-9 in the S2 Yamaha shop manual;

Tighten:
• Wheel axle
• Wheel axle pinch bolt
CAUTION:

Before tightening the wheel axle nut, push
down hard on the handlebar(s) several
times and check if the front fork rebounds
smoothly.
4. Install:
• Brake calipers

Agree to disagree.
R6 is axle does NOT thread into the fork. It uses a bolt to pull the axle through and tighten the assembly to the RS of the bike. The process IS different.

Yea i hear you. Natual is great but it impact caliper rotor spacing. All things being equal, they are properly aligned and do not bind when seated.

 

[Magruder13]

Since my post seemed to not make it here, I'm going to attempt to re-make it.

For the sport of it, reference is always from the driver/rider position. Anything else is confusion.

When assembled propperly the bolt side (RS) will have a noticable gap where the axle is say 10mm recessed in the fork.
Also, snug the bolt to a firm hand tight, tighten the pinch bolts while holding the forks together and finally, tighten the axle nut to spec. as the last step.

Got it, left is left, right is right! when my axle is assembled (what I think is correctly) the axle sticks out about 2mm outside the fork.

The axle is usually torqued FIRST, without snugging down the lower fork pinch bolt (it'll alter the actual torque value).

The forks are then usually pushed up and down on the ground so the fork legs find thier own happy location. Forcing them together for no reason is NOT recommended.

[/B]

This makes sense since this is how the stock FZ6 goes together. I'm almost 100% positive, my axle is incorrect and is too long.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agree to disagree.
R6 is axle does NOT thread into the fork. It uses a bolt to pull the axle through and tighten the assembly to the RS of the bike. The process IS different.

Yea i hear you. Natual is great but it impact caliper rotor spacing. All things being equal, they are properly aligned and do not bind when seated.

Looking at Joe's pic and your above post, I see now it clamps on both sides, Tks

 

[Magruder13]

Agree to disagree.
R6 is axle does NOT thread into the fork. It uses a bolt to pull the axle through and tighten the assembly to the RS of the bike. The process IS different.

Yea i hear you. Natual is great but it impact caliper rotor spacing. All things being equal, they are properly aligned and do not bind when seated.

Here's how I did it (without success)
1. Insert shaft from left all the way so that it is flush with the left outside edge of the fork.
2. Tighten left side pinch bolt
3. Tighten end bolt to spec
4. Tighten right hand pinch bolts.

Am I correct?

 

[FinalImpact]

Look at post 3 here..... This is how it all goes down if you use this part!

R6 Fork Install, Another One

PASTE......

So I mentioned in my R6 comparison post how short the R6 wheel axle was and having that gap of 9mm between the end of the axle and the face of the right fork leg.

Fred mentioned it in his R6 fork write-up and I'm going to re-mention it here. The front wheel axle bolt is almost 23mm in length, and with the 9mm gap, only 14mm of thread would be used to hold the axle to the right leg.


That's almost half the bolt thread not being used, and for me that was a little uncomfortable knowing this. To me, that bolt tightened to spec sandwiches the whole wheel assembly from the lip on the left side of the axle, the left spacer, the front wheel shaft, the right spacer, firmly and squarely to the right leg. This setup ensures that the face of the right spacer is partly contributing to the support of the axle to the leg reducing the moment load on the axle, IMO.

To compromise and get a few more threads holding the axle firmly, I first looked at finding another compatible axle. I went to a motorcycle used parts place, looked in the Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha bins. All I got was two greasy hands and a wasted trip. I then decided to use the existing R6 axle, and on the left side, use the original FZ6 spacer. This would give me an extra 3.3mm on the bolt side. I needed to use the R6 mod spacer on the right side as it controls the proper spacing of the wheel from the right leg. What about the left leg? In order to keep the overall spacing between the two legs, I had to machine out a 3.3mm or 0.127" spacer that would slide over the bigger diameter of the R6 axle.


The final result, this spacer ring has an OD of 1.36" and an ID of 1.104". When the spacer is stacked on top of the FZ6 spacer, it is the same height as one of the R6 mod spacers.




On the R6 leg, you can see the purpose of the spacer ring.




And the additional 3.3mm of axle to the right leg while the lip of the left side of the axle is no longer flush to the face of the left leg.


With the axle, spacers, and the front wheel in place, note now the gap is around 5mm from the original 9mm.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2004/YZF-R6 - YZFR6S/FRONT FORK/parts.html

FRONT FORK ASSY (L.H), 5SL-23102-00-00
FRONT FORK ASSY (R.H) 5SL-23103-00-00

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2004/YZF-R6 - YZFR6S/FRONT WHEEL/parts.html
AXLE, WHEEL, 5SL-25181-00-00

Notice the axle is recessed slightly....

Also your spacers should look like these. The larger one (OD) should be on the left.....

Found some stuff...
RS

Axle:

LS:

 

[Magruder13]

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

Thanks for the info, I've followed that exactly but that doesn't help. With the spacers I have a gap between my forks and wheel while at the same time my axle is too long. Now I know this is VERY hard to tell but looking at these pictures shows the OEM labeled picture of a R6S axle next to the one I bought. Mine looks a little bit longer IMHO.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet



AND I THINK I FIGURED IT OUT! The title of his ebay listing says "03-04 R6 YAMAHA 06-09 R6S OEM STRAIGHT FRONT WHEEL RIM AXLE PIVOT BOLT"

But the part description says: "Good used part removed from a 2005 Yamaha r6 with 16k miles. Part is comparable with the 06-09 r6s. Any questions please ask and please view all photos. Thanks "

Which is untrue, I have the wrong year front axle!!! YAY WE FIGURED IT OUT! GO US!

 

[FinalImpact]

@FinalImpact

Thanks for the info, I've followed that exactly but that doesn't help. With the spacers I have a gap between my forks and wheel while at the same time my axle is too long. Now I know this is VERY hard to tell but looking at these pictures shows the OEM labeled picture of a R6S axle next to the one I bought. Mine looks a little bit longer IMHO.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet



AND I THINK I FIGURED IT OUT! The title of his ebay listing says "03-04 R6 YAMAHA 06-09 R6S OEM STRAIGHT FRONT WHEEL RIM AXLE PIVOT BOLT"

But the part description says: "Good used part removed from a 2005 Yamaha r6 with 16k miles. Part is comparable with the 06-09 r6s. Any questions please ask and please view all photos. Thanks "

Which is untrue, I have the wrong year front axle!!! YAY WE FIGURED IT OUT! GO US!

You like this then.... Been there, done that! Well, not exactly that.... Click >> Help: Need correct P/N for 2004 R6 Axle

Where used on the correct part:
5SL-25181-00-00 YAMAHA AXLE, WHEEL

2003 R6 - YZFR6SRC FRONT WHEEL
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6R FRONT WHEEL
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6RC FRONT WHEEL
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6SR FRONT WHEEL
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S FRONT WHEEL
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SC FRONT WHEEL
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SCS FRONT WHEEL
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SS FRONT WHEEL
2006 R6S - YZFR6SV FRONT WHEEL
2006 R6S - YZFR6SVC FRONT WHEEL

 

[FinalImpact]

More reading less posting...
Granted the axle used in your case is too long, it doesnt explain the gap you have unless your forks are tweaked. There should be no gap as the axle just sitting in there doesn't actively impact the fork spacing or the wheel & spacers width. Well unless the forks are bent.

Block the nose up and rotate (one at a time) each stanchion tube 90° and see if the gap changes!

Keep us posted... And when you get a new axle, perhaps measure them both ans post! Tks!

 

[Magruder13]

One of these is not like the other!


2004 R6 axle on the left, 2005 R6 axle on the right.

 

[FinalImpact]

One of these is not like the other!
View attachment 65703

2004 R6 axle on the left, 2005 R6 axle on the right.

Did you get this all sorted out? What happened with the gap issue? Fixed and better or _____???

Did you happen to measure the axle length?

 

[motojoe122]

One of these is not like the other!
View attachment 65703

2004 R6 axle on the left, 2005 R6 axle on the right.

And now we know.... Sorry you had to find that out the hard way, but your experience may help someone else out.


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