Charging problem

[Gary in NJ]

Yep, the rectifier is good, but the regulator is unknown. Given that the stator checked out as good, and the rectifier checked out as good, you now need to address the battery for a load test. If the battery checks out as good, then the regulator is bad (which means replacement of the R/R).

 

[pizza_pablo]

Yep, the rectifier is good, but the regulator is unknown. Given that the stator checked out as good, and the rectifier checked out as good, you now need to address the battery for a load test. If the battery checks out as good, then the regulator is bad (which means replacement of the R/R).

The battery charged really quickly on a 2 amp charge. Off to the cycle shop I go.

 

[pizza_pablo]

Shop said it failed initial load test and they will keep it over night to smart charge and load test in the morning.

 

[pizza_pablo]

After overnight on the smart charger followed by a load test the battery checks out good. So I guess I'll buy a regulator.
Thank you all so very much for of your help!

ETA, the Yamaha dealer wanted $160 plus tax!
Not in stock anyways.
Time for some internet digging.

 

[Gary in NJ]

The reason your fast charge didn't work is that the battery has been undercharged for an extended period of time. I'm gonna agree with the theory above (I'm too lazy to look...it was Scott or Cliff) that the bike may have been battery started from a car battery.

An upgrade for the OEM R/R would be a MOSFET based unit. The OEM is diode based (SCR) and shunts excess current to ground, while a FET based R/R provides switching. Whatever you do, don't buy a new one off eBay. A used OEM yes...but not a new one - it will be import crap (Shindengen).

While I have not used one, Ricks has a good reputation:

Hot Shot Style Yamaha Rectifier Regulator 10_418H

Hot Shot Style Yamaha Rectifier-Regulator

ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

You will also note that they have an OEM replacement diode unit for $80.

OEM Style Yamaha Rectifier Regulator 10_418

OEM Style Yamaha Rectifier-Regulator

ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Or a diode unit that regulates at current suitable (14VDC) for LiFePo4 batteries - $95. Only necessary if you are using a "dumb" LiFePo4 without internal protection.

Lithium Ion Battery Compatible Rectifier Regulator 14_418

Lithium Ion Battery Compatible Rectifier-Regulator

ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

 

[pizza_pablo]

The reason your fast charge didn't work is that the battery has been undercharged for an extended period of time. I'm gonna agree with the theory above (I'm too lazy to look...it was Scott or Cliff) that the bike may have been battery started from a car battery.

Do you think the battery IS still good, even though it may have been jumped from a car battery?
Here is the test results. Should have posted this earlier.
I'll probably get one of the fancy regulators.
Thank's, for the links!

 

[Gary in NJ]

I see that it states 13.17V, but under what condition? Is that 2 minutes after a charge at 14.5VDC, or is that 8 hours after...or is that on the charger? Sorry, but there's not enough data there to determine anything. But the tester says it's good...so it must (might) be.

 

[pizza_pablo]

I see that it states 13.17V, but under what condition? Is that 2 minutes after a charge at 14.5VDC, or is that 8 hours after...or is that on the charger? Sorry, but there's not enough data there to determine anything. But the tester says it's good...so it must (might) be.

Well alrighty then.
I only know what they stated. On the "smart charger" over night and then load tested.

I was asking if the car jump would have likely hurt the battery or not.

 

[pizza_pablo]

An upgrade for the OEM R/R would be a MOSFET based unit. The OEM is diode based (SCR) and shunts excess current to ground, while a FET based R/R provides switching. [/URL]

What is the advantage of the MOSFET switching?
The only thing I could find is that it operates cooler and a bit more efficient.

ETA, I ordered the $80 OEM regulator from Rick's.

Thanks, again, for all the help!

 

[Gary in NJ]

By shunting the current to ground it does cause the r/r to heat up. That heat reduces the life of the unit. The mosfet unit is also more accurate and repeatable.

 

[pizza_pablo]

By shunting the current to ground it does cause the r/r to heat up. That heat reduces the life of the unit. The mosfet unit is also more accurate and repeatable.

Understood. Hopefully, I'll "graduate" to a different bike, before this one goes out.

 

[pizza_pablo]

I took the bike for a ride around the neighborhood, practicing tight turns in cul-de-sac, and when I got back the check engine light is on with a code 46.
Fuel injector ejecting supply?
Bad voltage Regulator the cause or lose connection after reassembly?

ETA, yup. Looks like the charging system is further degraded...
"Symptom: Power supply to the FI system is not normal. Probable cause of malfunction: Malfunction in CHARGING SYSTEM."

Looks like this member had the same issue and it turned out to be the Regulator, though I can't see his thread in this forum.

https://www.reddit.com/r/fz6/comments/6vefr6

 

[pizza_pablo]

I may have found the issue...
How did it start and run?

 

[pizza_pablo]

I wake to grab the plug with a retrieval claw tool and plug it back in without raising the tank.
The light and code are gone.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You’ve done more trouble shooting on your FZ6 in the last week than I have in 6 years.

 

[pizza_pablo]

You’ve done more trouble shooting on your FZ6 in the last week than I have in 6 years.

I've had it only 8 days

 

[Gary in NJ]

That’s why every used bike I get gets torn down and turned into something else. By the time they’re back together i know every nut and bolt.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So is the issue fixed?, Just a loose connector?

 

[pizza_pablo]

So is the issue fixed?, Just a loose connector?

Oh no. That loose connector was after all of the troubleshooting.
The new Regulator is supposed to be here tomorrow.

 

[Gary in NJ]

We're actually more excited than you are.