Charging problem

[Gary in NJ]

If any of the stator coils are shorted to ground, the stator AC voltage output can still test OK open circuit. But when you plug it into the R/R it will not work because you have a common ground for both the AC input and the DC output. That is why you must do (and pass) all 3 tests

 

[pizza_pablo]

If any of the stator coils are shorted to ground, the stator AC voltage output can still test OK open circuit. But when you plug it into the R/R it will not work because you have a common ground for both the AC input and the DC output. That is why you must do (and pass) all 3 tests

So, I need a stator replacement?
Is that something I can do or must a shop do it?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can do it but you will need a torx bit, hand held impact tool, some propane heat to break loose the factory locktite.

I replaced my left side cover several times(tip overs) and had to swap the stator.

The hardest part is breaking the mounting bolts (torx) loose. Heat is applied to the case, right where the torx screws go in. A hand held impact tool will help get them out. You don't want to bugger up the bolts and make more issues..

The Yamaha loctite works REALLY WELL. Of course, loctite the bolts when re-installing the stator to the cover.


Impact tool:

 

[Gary in NJ]

Pablo,

I know that you a "new" to riding after a long absence, but are you new to vehicle maintenance and repair? A stator replacement isn't a high-level replacement, but it does have its challenges. An impact gun should be used (or a long breaker bar and someone to sit on the bike with the brakes applied) to remove the nut on the crank shaft, and everything will need to be put back together in accordance with the FSM. My point is this, you purchased this bike to rediscover your joy of motorcycles, to get back to a "normal" life, and find some freedom. This might be one of those jobs that is best for a local mechanic to bang-out in a day or two, rather than you have a bike in pieces in your garage for a week or two.

Let you prior repair experience be your guide.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Oh...and this....

You said that all three legs of the stator were open to ground, correct? And when you checked wire-to-wire you had continuity, correct? You you happen to take a resistance measurement wire-to-wire?

Is your volt meter properly calibrated?

So far it appears that your stator is checking out OK:

Voltage ~ 70VAC at each leg - GOOD
Each Stator leg to ground shows open - GOOD
Wire-to-Wire Continuity - GOOD
Wire-to-Wire Resistance - Unknown

I just checked the FSM, the resistance should be 0.22 to 0.34 Ω

 

[Motogiro]

So, I need a stator replacement?
Is that something I can do or must a shop do it?

If you did the 3 pin test, pin to pin, and all 3 had the same continuity ( .22 to .34 ohms )and you checked each pin to ground against the engine ( a bare bolt) where you got an open (no continuity) reading your stator looks good.

From what I've read it looks like your stator passed.

Check that the pin connectors are clean at the stator/rr connector.

If your voltage readings (at the battery) are below spec. with the engine running you may have a failed diode or a bad regulator. Bike regulators are what are termed shunt regulators. Car regulators are a different type today.
If the bike was ever started from a car and the car engine was running the car alternator will produce enough current to over heat the bike's shunt regulator and damage the shunt and/or rectifier diodes because of the excessive heat. So you can jump start from a car battery but the car engine should be off so that the car's alternator does not hurt the bike regulator/rectifier.

One other possibility is you may have a sulfated battery. The chemical composition of the plate to electrolyte exchange has been changed and the battery will not come up to it's full voltage. The battery should be charged out of the bike to see that it has a healthy voltage and passes a load test.

 

[pizza_pablo]

All good stuff. Thanks, y'all!
The stator replacements I watch on the YouTube seemed easy, but with their caveats, like the need for an impact. I have one, but not the specialty bit.

If I recall correctly there was no reading for wire to wire continuity, just a compete short, but I'll check again.
My meter is a fancy Fluke that is not old. It should be good to go.

Are there any tests for the Regulator?
I wish I wasn't at work so I could check now.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You can check the rectifier, but not the regulator. This is a procedure I have used for my DRZ. I think the wire colors are the same, but if they are not it should be easy to figure out.

Remove the R/R from the bike so you can test the internal rectifier diodes. Put your digital meter on diode check and check the red wire to yellows wires then reverse the test leads. You will get no continuity one way and about .5 volt drop fwd continuity the other. Now repeat the test black wire to yellows. You should get the opposite results for no continuity and fwd continuity with a .5 volt drop.

Cliff is 100% correct about the battery health. Bench charge it for a few hours, and then bring it to a local auto supply or motorcycle shop for a load test. It just might be (hopefully) a bad battery. But I think a bad battery would still show 14+VDC at the terminals during charging.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to be clear, .


Should you have to replace the stator, the large, rotating ROTOR assembly does NOT need to come off.

The rotor is attached to the crankshaft, the stator is bolted to the left SIDE COVER..

No impact guns, breaker bars, etc are needed for the stator R&R. The stator itself is stationary, attached to the left side cover..

Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 OEM Parts Diagram for GENERATOR | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 GENERATOR Diagram

www.partzilla.com

No impact guns, breaker bars, etc are needed for the stator R&R.

Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 OEM Parts Diagram for GENERATOR | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 GENERATOR Diagram

www.partzilla.com

 

[pizza_pablo]

Just to be clear, .


Should you have to replace the stator, the large, rotating ROTOR assembly does NOT need to come off.

The rotor is attached to the crankshaft, the stator is bolted to the left SIDE COVER..

No impact guns, breaker bars, etc are needed for the stator R&R. The stator itself is stationary, attached to the left side cover..

Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 OEM Parts Diagram for GENERATOR | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 GENERATOR Diagram

www.partzilla.com

View attachment 73558
No impact guns, breaker bars, etc are needed for the stator R&R.

Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 OEM Parts Diagram for GENERATOR | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Yamaha Motorcycle 2007 GENERATOR Diagram

www.partzilla.com

Sweet! Thanks!
Does it require an oil draining?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sweet! Thanks!
Does it require an oil draining?

No it doesn't if the bike is on the centerstand..

I would get a new side cover gasket.

As previously posted, the 3 bolts holding it to the cover are a BITCH to get off W/O direct heat
to loosen the loctite..

I'm on cover #3, so done it twice on my '07

 

[pizza_pablo]

No it doesn't if the bike is on the centerstand..

I would get a new side cover gasket.

As previously posted, the 3 bolts holding it to the cover are a BITCH to get off W/O direct heat
to loosen the loctite..

I'm on cover #3, so done it twice on my '07

What is the cost of a new cover?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What is the cost of a new cover?

Part #1(about $100 US): https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fz6-fzs6w/crankcase-cover-1

As long as you heat, (propane torch, heat gun), the cover from the inside with the proper torx bit and impact tool, the bolts will come out.

Cut any corners, you will break off a bolt/damage it. With that said, if the torx bolt breaks in the "head area", you'll have a broke stud (still in the cover) you can grab with a vise grip (WITH HEAT).

The impact tool is $10-$20(at least in the US). Get a good torx, 1/4 drive set, adapter (1/4" torx bit to 3/8 impact tool) and your good to go..

And both tools will be used again and again if you do any kind of maintenance.
.

.

 

[pizza_pablo]

Part #1(about $100 US): https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fz6-fzs6w/crankcase-cover-1

As long as you heat, (propane torch, heat gun), the cover from the inside with the proper torx bit and impact tool, the bolts will come out.

Cut any corners, you will break off a bolt/damage it. With that said, if the torx bolt breaks in the "head area", you'll have a broke stud (still in the cover) you can grab with a vise grip (WITH HEAT).

The impact tool is $10-$20(at least in the US). Get a good torx, 1/4 drive set, adapter (1/4" torx bit to 3/8 impact tool) and your good to go..

And both tools will be used again and again if you do any kind of maintenance.
.

.

Awesome! Thanks!
I could do this, as opposed to bringing and leaving the bike and paying someone $70 an hour to do it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As I swapped to new covers, I never had to un-plug the stator from the bike.

I set up a short, sturdy stool next to the bike. Pulled the cover off, set upside down on the stool and R&Red the bolts/stator... It'd take much more time chasing the pigtail and un-plugging it from the main harness. I can do it in about an hour, with the proper tools..

I don't trust anyone wrenching on my machines(too many bad stories-with machines under warranty).

 

[trepetti]

Look here for some good information on how to test the RR...

https://www.roadstercycle.com/Stator%20Testing%20Example.htm

 

[Motogiro]

Look here for some good information on how to test the RR...

https://www.roadstercycle.com/Stator%20Testing%20Example.htm

This link is to test the stator.

Here is a link to test the diodes in the regulator rectifier. It still does not show the shunt regulation properties. But generally regulator problems are do to a bad rectifier diodes.

 

[pizza_pablo]

So the regulator is under the rear of the tank.
Where is the Rectifier?
I thought they were the same piece.

 

[Gary in NJ]

It's a single unit.

 

[pizza_pablo]

This link is to test the stator.

Here is a link to test the diodes in the regulator rectifier. It still does not show the shunt regulation properties. But generally regulator problems are do to a bad rectifier diodes.

Ok, following this video and using the male spades on the connector that is attached to the Regulator itself, as shown in the first pic, I got the results shown in the second pic.
I think it's good.