Zargof
MSF Instructor
I got the simple ones.
Bi-Xenon Projector: Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit Install (And my new mirrors)
- Thread starter DownrangeFuture
- Start date
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
Dang, I haven't read this thread in awhile. I'm not on the computer much these days. Too nice out. So, I guess PM me if you run into any issues.
If the H7 is working for you guys, that's great. I used the H4 to be sure I had high and low beam since that's required to pass inspection in TX. Although, if the spades aren't lining up that might be a bummer. If you cut the plugs and wire them in, I'd make sure and use quick disconnects. Posi-loc makes some nice ones. As well as some full posi-tapped out plugs. But that'd probably still be easier than trying to do BD34's mod.
If the H7 is working for you guys, that's great. I used the H4 to be sure I had high and low beam since that's required to pass inspection in TX. Although, if the spades aren't lining up that might be a bummer. If you cut the plugs and wire them in, I'd make sure and use quick disconnects. Posi-loc makes some nice ones. As well as some full posi-tapped out plugs. But that'd probably still be easier than trying to do BD34's mod.
Zargof
MSF Instructor
On my initial test wire up, it doesn't appear that I need bd34's wire to run the high beam functionality with the projectors.
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ALIEN
Junior Member
I finally order the morimoto mini H1 :rockon:
Now I have to wait to receive them.....
Hope to install them without problem
If someone can upload a photo behind the headlight ,without the waterproof cover of Yamaha to see how it seems, i will appreciate it a lot
Now I have to wait to receive them.....
Hope to install them without problem
If someone can upload a photo behind the headlight ,without the waterproof cover of Yamaha to see how it seems, i will appreciate it a lot
ALIEN
Junior Member
Today i received the package .
Super fast shipping !
One question , the projectors has right or left side or are the same ?
Super fast shipping !
One question , the projectors has right or left side or are the same ?
Zargof
MSF Instructor
The projectors are the same. The only thing that will differ will be the adapter piece needed to secure the projector.
hk_fz6_05
Junior Member
Ok so I finally got it the night before last and let me start by saying: this has been a PITA and a SOB and I've on occasion wanted to sit down and cry, BUT having done it it is definitely the most satisfying job I've done on my bike and the difference in light output is INSANE!
The main reason I had such a time of it was that without clear instructions it was experimenting and trial and error most of the time despite having read (and reread) the massive amount of info on this and other forums. So what follows is an attempt at an overview of the pitfalls where I got myself into trouble and some of the photos that I would have liked to have available to me. Hope it helps someone out there, because this is a mod so well worth doing despite the pain
Starting point: 2005 FZ6 with BD43's dual headlight mod, Morimoto mini H1s, H7 harness, H4+H7 adapterplates, Mini Graphite shrouds
First steps: Taking apart the front fairing and baking the headlights were pretty painless. Likewise priming and painting the reflectors - I went with mat black. (Although having never taken my fairing apart before it took some time and REMEMBER to mark those screws!!)
Problem - Cutting & Fitting Shrouds: The shrouds are too big for the reflectors. I'd read that you had to cut them, but I hadn't found pics of how or how much. At first I thought the right angles on the inside of the shroud had to line up with the corners of the projector - THEY DON'T.
Hence the first shroud I cut (pic 1) ended up being cut ugly and too much, but the corner in question is covered completely by the headlight housing front.
I tried different techniques for cutting the shroud including heat, pliers and knives. The best was definitely pliers and a file (pic 2).
Shroud no. 2 was cut much more nicely and less (pic 3). Be aware that most likely the shrouds need to be cut slightly differently.
Problem - Mounting the Angel Eyes: Reading on the TRS site it seemed they were mostly mounting their angel eyes on the outside of the shrouds, but they fit nicely inside the graphites I had. I was slightly confused by the shroud centric rings and whether or not these were required, so I emailed TRS and they said:
"We use the CCFL rings, a few dabs of silicone, and then the centric rings in behind them."
So that's what I did. Had to file a groove in the shroud centric rings to allow passage of the wires for the angel eyes (pic 4) but other than that it was pretty straight forward once you knew the deal (pic 5).
Tip - Test Test Test: Keep a standard 9V battery handy for testing both angel eye and solenoid (the plate in the projector that switches hi/lo beam) function (pic 6). Obviously the angel eyes won't light up to full power with this, but you can make sure you haven't destroyed anything.
Problem - Where do the orange bits go? Embarrassingly I had to ask that in a previous post here (thanks Zargof for sorting that out). Here's a pic to eliminate any remaining doubt (pic 7).
Problem - Wiring!!! Calm down, it's really really going to be fine!! This is what I had to work with (pic 8). The two major issues I had were
a) How to wire the angel eyes to the bike lights?
Well, I went with wiring them to the running lights (pod lights - my bike is European and was thus born with podlights). Black wire is ground and blue wire (or blue with green tracer) is live. I hadn't soldered anything in anger for 10 years, but I went ahead and stripped the insulation off the wires on the bike harness and soldered the wires for the ccfl power supplies on there (pic 9 - not the best soldering in the world but it works).
b) The spades on the bike male connectors don't line up with the harness female connectors (pic 10).
Ok this is where it gets a little interesting. TRS recommend that the wiring harness you get has connectors corresponding to the lo beam bulb on your bike - in our case H7. Fair enough. However Yamaha in their infinite wisdom uses only H4 connectors on the bike's harness (at least for my model and year) and the H7 bulb is fitted with an H4 adapter. So effectively both our hi and lo beam bulbs are H4 connected factory standard. Which is why the spades don't line up.
I haven't seen an H4 harness and can't comment on them. BUT I would suggest you check your connects and talk to TRS before ordering at the very least and I THINK that ppl with bikes of my year (05) should be ordering H4 harnesses.
Anyway what I did was go to an autoparts store and get some H7 male connectors. Note that H4 has three spades Hi, Lo and Ground, while H7 has only two and run both Hi and Lo off one spade. After some research online I figured out that the original bike wire harness had one "Hi beam wire" (BLACK with YELLOW tracer) and one "Lo beam wire" (BLACK with GREEN tracer), i.e. one signal that turns the lights on and and one that is only live when the hi beam switch is flipped.
After rewiring that means you have a hi and a lo beam H7 connector, which fits right into the way the TRS wire harness is set up (it splits each hi and lo beam input off into two) and suddenly presto - no need for the BD43s headlight mod anymore!
To be continued......
The main reason I had such a time of it was that without clear instructions it was experimenting and trial and error most of the time despite having read (and reread) the massive amount of info on this and other forums. So what follows is an attempt at an overview of the pitfalls where I got myself into trouble and some of the photos that I would have liked to have available to me. Hope it helps someone out there, because this is a mod so well worth doing despite the pain
Starting point: 2005 FZ6 with BD43's dual headlight mod, Morimoto mini H1s, H7 harness, H4+H7 adapterplates, Mini Graphite shrouds
First steps: Taking apart the front fairing and baking the headlights were pretty painless. Likewise priming and painting the reflectors - I went with mat black. (Although having never taken my fairing apart before it took some time and REMEMBER to mark those screws!!)
Problem - Cutting & Fitting Shrouds: The shrouds are too big for the reflectors. I'd read that you had to cut them, but I hadn't found pics of how or how much. At first I thought the right angles on the inside of the shroud had to line up with the corners of the projector - THEY DON'T.
Hence the first shroud I cut (pic 1) ended up being cut ugly and too much, but the corner in question is covered completely by the headlight housing front.
I tried different techniques for cutting the shroud including heat, pliers and knives. The best was definitely pliers and a file (pic 2).
Shroud no. 2 was cut much more nicely and less (pic 3). Be aware that most likely the shrouds need to be cut slightly differently.
Problem - Mounting the Angel Eyes: Reading on the TRS site it seemed they were mostly mounting their angel eyes on the outside of the shrouds, but they fit nicely inside the graphites I had. I was slightly confused by the shroud centric rings and whether or not these were required, so I emailed TRS and they said:
"We use the CCFL rings, a few dabs of silicone, and then the centric rings in behind them."
So that's what I did. Had to file a groove in the shroud centric rings to allow passage of the wires for the angel eyes (pic 4) but other than that it was pretty straight forward once you knew the deal (pic 5).
Tip - Test Test Test: Keep a standard 9V battery handy for testing both angel eye and solenoid (the plate in the projector that switches hi/lo beam) function (pic 6). Obviously the angel eyes won't light up to full power with this, but you can make sure you haven't destroyed anything.
Problem - Where do the orange bits go? Embarrassingly I had to ask that in a previous post here (thanks Zargof for sorting that out). Here's a pic to eliminate any remaining doubt (pic 7).
Problem - Wiring!!! Calm down, it's really really going to be fine!! This is what I had to work with (pic 8). The two major issues I had were
a) How to wire the angel eyes to the bike lights?
Well, I went with wiring them to the running lights (pod lights - my bike is European and was thus born with podlights). Black wire is ground and blue wire (or blue with green tracer) is live. I hadn't soldered anything in anger for 10 years, but I went ahead and stripped the insulation off the wires on the bike harness and soldered the wires for the ccfl power supplies on there (pic 9 - not the best soldering in the world but it works).
b) The spades on the bike male connectors don't line up with the harness female connectors (pic 10).
Ok this is where it gets a little interesting. TRS recommend that the wiring harness you get has connectors corresponding to the lo beam bulb on your bike - in our case H7. Fair enough. However Yamaha in their infinite wisdom uses only H4 connectors on the bike's harness (at least for my model and year) and the H7 bulb is fitted with an H4 adapter. So effectively both our hi and lo beam bulbs are H4 connected factory standard. Which is why the spades don't line up.
I haven't seen an H4 harness and can't comment on them. BUT I would suggest you check your connects and talk to TRS before ordering at the very least and I THINK that ppl with bikes of my year (05) should be ordering H4 harnesses.
Anyway what I did was go to an autoparts store and get some H7 male connectors. Note that H4 has three spades Hi, Lo and Ground, while H7 has only two and run both Hi and Lo off one spade. After some research online I figured out that the original bike wire harness had one "Hi beam wire" (BLACK with YELLOW tracer) and one "Lo beam wire" (BLACK with GREEN tracer), i.e. one signal that turns the lights on and and one that is only live when the hi beam switch is flipped.
After rewiring that means you have a hi and a lo beam H7 connector, which fits right into the way the TRS wire harness is set up (it splits each hi and lo beam input off into two) and suddenly presto - no need for the BD43s headlight mod anymore!
To be continued......
hk_fz6_05
Junior Member
...Continued from previous post
Wiring continued:
My bike side wiring harness now looks like pic 11 (pic 1 in this post), where I have yet to add the plastic housing around the new H7 spades . NOTE: Getting the original H4 male connectors off and cannibalizing the H7s was a true PITA and a literal pain in my hands.
I left the green BD43 wire in there rolled up under the fairing.
Tip - Test Test Test! Having finally got all the bits into a semblance of mountedness, test for function before heat sealing the housing. It is truly a blessing to know that things work. I just mounted my housing on my bike and hung all the wires and power supplies from string for ease of access (pic 12). (and yes, I managed to flip one of the ccfl power supply connections so initially only one angel eye was working - HORROR!).
Problem - Mounting: Well it seemed daunting at first, but once you get stuck in there it's not that bad. I stuck my headlight housing back on my front fairing and just started sticking things in place. I used velcro for a lot of it and so far I'm very happy with that solution. You have plenty of space in your fairing for this, if you haven't mounted anything else in there and the guys at TRS definitely haven't been stingy with the length of the wires! (I have rolls and rolls of it under my fairing).
Here is a pic of my fairing with most things mounted and one of the placement of the power supplies in each side (pics 13-15).
NOTE: The one problem I haven't really satisfactorily resolved is the mounting of the rubber boots on the rear of the headlight housing. I cut down the sides of the rubber gaskets that are mounted on the wires for the xenon bulbs and I probably shouldn't have done that. Some ppl on here have said that they were able to stretch the boots to take the gaskets as a kind of plug. I haven't really been able to make that work. I think I'll play it fast and dirty and do final waterproofing with a wrap of electrical tape, but I'm not entirely happy with the way it turned out (not that it's a major thing, but still.)
As a final note let me just say that TRS have been extremely helpful and forthcoming with information and are highly recommend from me. And if you're thinking about doing this mod you should go and do it!
Any questions are most welcome.
Wiring continued:
My bike side wiring harness now looks like pic 11 (pic 1 in this post), where I have yet to add the plastic housing around the new H7 spades . NOTE: Getting the original H4 male connectors off and cannibalizing the H7s was a true PITA and a literal pain in my hands.
I left the green BD43 wire in there rolled up under the fairing.
Tip - Test Test Test! Having finally got all the bits into a semblance of mountedness, test for function before heat sealing the housing. It is truly a blessing to know that things work
. I just mounted my housing on my bike and hung all the wires and power supplies from string for ease of access (pic 12). (and yes, I managed to flip one of the ccfl power supply connections so initially only one angel eye was working - HORROR!).Problem - Mounting: Well it seemed daunting at first, but once you get stuck in there it's not that bad. I stuck my headlight housing back on my front fairing and just started sticking things in place. I used velcro for a lot of it and so far I'm very happy with that solution. You have plenty of space in your fairing for this, if you haven't mounted anything else in there and the guys at TRS definitely haven't been stingy with the length of the wires! (I have rolls and rolls of it under my fairing).
Here is a pic of my fairing with most things mounted and one of the placement of the power supplies in each side (pics 13-15).
NOTE: The one problem I haven't really satisfactorily resolved is the mounting of the rubber boots on the rear of the headlight housing. I cut down the sides of the rubber gaskets that are mounted on the wires for the xenon bulbs and I probably shouldn't have done that. Some ppl on here have said that they were able to stretch the boots to take the gaskets as a kind of plug. I haven't really been able to make that work. I think I'll play it fast and dirty and do final waterproofing with a wrap of electrical tape, but I'm not entirely happy with the way it turned out (not that it's a major thing, but still.)
As a final note let me just say that TRS have been extremely helpful and forthcoming with information and are highly recommend from me. And if you're thinking about doing this mod you should go and do it!
Any questions are most welcome.
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
Far more concise than my post. I never claimed to be a writer, or coherent.
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
I actually cut the rubber boot on the back of the light to fit the included plug better. From what I understand, the seal shouldn't be perfect because of the high temps of the bulbs. They're hot enough that not a cold day they'll fog up the housing no matter how dry they are inside (unless you purged and sealed them). That needs some way to clear out.
I'll get pics later. Gotta run to work.
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
Oh, and your install looks like it rocks man. Thanks for posting that.
ALIEN
Junior Member
hk_fz6_05
Perfect description :bow:
Perfect description :bow:
hk_fz6_05
Junior Member
huh well waddaya know - makes me feel a lot better about the whole rubber boot thing
and thanks to you both
and thanks to you both
ALIEN
Junior Member
hk_fz6_05
On H7 harness input on the side of factory harness the blue cable is battery(+) and black cable battery(-) ?
After the connector the black cable converted to blue and the blue to black as you can see in the photo
On H7 harness input on the side of factory harness the blue cable is battery(+) and black cable battery(-) ?
After the connector the black cable converted to blue and the blue to black as you can see in the photo
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hk_fz6_05
Junior Member
yes blue is battery and black is ground or negative.
it shouldn't be doing that and mine didn't. Because of my current hung over state my brain won't load the memory section containing info on what goes where. I'll try and be more helpful in a few hours maybe. sorry.
it shouldn't be doing that and mine didn't. Because of my current hung over state my brain won't load the memory section containing info on what goes where. I'll try and be more helpful in a few hours maybe. sorry.
LunchBox04V
That Subaru Guy
Hi folks. Maybe I'm missing something (and trust me, I probably am) Couldn't you remove the low beams positive spade from the H7 side, and put it into the open spade holder on the H4 side? (I would look and try this, but the bike is 220 miles away in storage.....) I have looked it over a few times, and maybe I'm missing something. But then you would have a functioning high and lox beam lead, with a ground, in one H4 socket. Then just plug and play with the TRS H4 adaptor.
As I understand it, then you would have a ground and positive for the low beam side of the H4, and a ground and positive when the high beam is selected. Thus eliminating the need to wire in the BD43 wire mod. Does this sound right? Would that cause an over current? I'm far from being a wiring expert. I just did one of these conversion to my mothers Subaru Forester (she used to have trouble seeing at night.... not any more!) So I have used them.... just trying to square away the wiring logic. Thanks again.
As I understand it, then you would have a ground and positive for the low beam side of the H4, and a ground and positive when the high beam is selected. Thus eliminating the need to wire in the BD43 wire mod. Does this sound right? Would that cause an over current? I'm far from being a wiring expert. I just did one of these conversion to my mothers Subaru Forester (she used to have trouble seeing at night.... not any more!) So I have used them.... just trying to square away the wiring logic. Thanks again.
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hk_fz6_05
Junior Member
that sounds a lot like what I ended up doing - check my earlier post. (don't know the layout of your wiring harness)
but yeah as long as you run the low beam to the input on the main harness and the high beam selector to the solenoids you should be fine, and that does take bd43s mod out of the picture.
but yeah as long as you run the low beam to the input on the main harness and the high beam selector to the solenoids you should be fine, and that does take bd43s mod out of the picture.
Zargof
MSF Instructor
When you make the conversion to the bi-xenon projector you don't need the bd43 mod done as it doesn't use both headlight plugs at the same time to control them. The left(low beam) plug is used to power the bulbs. The right(high beam) is used to control the projector.
DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
That's right. I didn't actually think about doing that myself. But it'd work fine without it. You really just need the spade that switches high/low, as the system pulls power right from the battery.
Of course, I already had bd34's mod done so...
Of course, I already had bd34's mod done so...
I think that you guys may be over thinking it. All you need is one of these:
High Beam Splitters - Accessories from The Retrofit Source Inc
Select the H7 Male -> 9006/9006. High beam activates both solenoids then. Dual highs!!
High Beam Splitters - Accessories from The Retrofit Source Inc
Select the H7 Male -> 9006/9006. High beam activates both solenoids then. Dual highs!!
