DownrangeFuture
Electronic Repair Genius
This is still a work in progress but they're working and I took a few pics, so I thought I'd share what I learned. I'm not going to cover painting, aiming the lights, etc. because it's all covered in detail elsewhere. (Google is your friend)
First of all I bought these from The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications, the price was good, the kit is all together and comes with everything you need, including a wiring harness, and shipping was free!
You'll need to get the H1 kit with the H4 adapter plate and the H4 relay. It should come with both the H4 and H7 adapters but you can always put a note saying what bike you have, and that you'll need both, and they'll put both in for free.
Remove the lights from your fairing, and take everything off of them you can. Preheat your oven to 265F and put them in for 7 minutes or until golden brown on each side. Be sure and put some wood down for the lights to sit on, don't worry, wood doesn't catch fire for 2-300 more degrees F.
Pull them out and put them on something soft, and use something flat (flathead screwdriver, putty knife, etc) to pry them apart. They should come apart quite easily. Don't clean the goop off and make sure it doesn't get on the lens.
If you want to paint your reflector, now is the time. I'm not going over how to paint (google!), but I used Krylon gloss black for plastic. Feel free to use a primer type if you want. Cure it in the oven even if you want. It doesn't hurt the paint any. Just stinks.
I didn't bother taping, cause if I over-sprayed my black paint on the black plastic...
Then mount the projectors. Easy, seriously. Just unscrew the retaining clip, take the nut off, put the projector through the hole with the shaped rubber grommet on the inside, put the proper adapter plate on, screw the nut back on, then screw the retaining clip back on. Done. Repeat for the other side.
Sorry for the quality, my camera sucks. But that's what it looks like mounted. I didn't take a picture of it, but the H4 side is a bit tall and the retaining clip doesn't quite touch the back of the projector. Cut it, or leave it alone. Either way it'll screw in tight enough, and I didn't notice any detriment to brightness on the right side.
The shrouds don't fit, so you can either cut the shrouds, which I plan to do, or vacuum form your own. That looks totally awesome, and I may give it a whirl if I'm feeling adventurous this weekend.
Now, before you put the lenses back on, get some rubbing alcohol and scrub the crud out of the projector lens and the inside of the stock lens. Make sure it all dries and doesn't leave any film. You won't have another chance to clean them later, unless you take it all apart again.
Fit the stock lens back on, and put it back in the oven at 265F for 7 minutes. When you pull it out, push the lenses back into place and make sure all the clips are latched. Now let it cool and put it back in the fairings.
On to wiring.
It will all fit. Trust me. One wire goes to the battery. It has the fuse, and it just fits under the positive screw on your battery. Whew, that part was easy. Now there are two with the same ends, a short one and a long one. They go to the ballasts, and the little plug hanging off goes to the lamps, that little plug coming out the back. It's for the solenoid and it's how you go from dim to bright. The two wires off the ballasts go to the plugs on the back of the bulb. Make sure you clean the bulb like it says; if you touch the glass putting it in, clean it again!
The last plug is for the H4 side plug. You'll need to do BD34's headlight mod. http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/1663-bd43s-07-headlight-mod-part-1-a.html and http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/1666-bd43s-07-headlight-mod-part-2-a.html. Sorry. I know it's a PITA, but it's really the only way. The relay needs the low to switch for it's logic.
I think you may have to swap some of the pins around, my highs and lows are backwards. I'm working with TRS to get that straightened out. I don't think yamaha wired the plugs right to begin with.
As you probably noticed, I found a novel way to mount the ballasts. They come with this nifty bracket, and if you bend it a bit, they fit right in.
And yes, I have wires everywhere. I'm re-running some of it this weekend. I think half the mess is all the extra wire from doing BD34's dual headlight mod. I think I have 4 extra feet in there.
Once they're in and it's all wired up, start the bike.
Freaked you out when it took a few seconds to warm up, didn't it? :BLAA:
Here's them on low:
And on high:
The second picture is just in the "flicker zone". When people are in that zone, it looks like your projectors change color as you drive by to them. Awesome, huh? Any lower than this, and it washed out my camera!
And those are my new integrated mirrors too. I installed them at the same time. I hooked them up between the two colored wires on each side. Blue and Brown, and Blue and Green, I believe. The red wire from the mirrors plugs into the blue. In this set up, they work as running lights, and blinkers.
Basically, when the running lights are on, one side is hot, the other is grounded, so it flows and the LEDs turn on. When the turn signal blinks, both sides are hot, so no voltage flow through the LEDs and they turn off.
Nifty huh? Although, if you're just using the mirrors, that probably won't work.
YouTube - Integrated Mirrors
I'll post updates as I work out the shroud, and of my cleaned up wiring mess.
First of all I bought these from The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications, the price was good, the kit is all together and comes with everything you need, including a wiring harness, and shipping was free!
You'll need to get the H1 kit with the H4 adapter plate and the H4 relay. It should come with both the H4 and H7 adapters but you can always put a note saying what bike you have, and that you'll need both, and they'll put both in for free.
Remove the lights from your fairing, and take everything off of them you can. Preheat your oven to 265F and put them in for 7 minutes or until golden brown on each side. Be sure and put some wood down for the lights to sit on, don't worry, wood doesn't catch fire for 2-300 more degrees F.
Pull them out and put them on something soft, and use something flat (flathead screwdriver, putty knife, etc) to pry them apart. They should come apart quite easily. Don't clean the goop off and make sure it doesn't get on the lens.
If you want to paint your reflector, now is the time. I'm not going over how to paint (google!), but I used Krylon gloss black for plastic. Feel free to use a primer type if you want. Cure it in the oven even if you want. It doesn't hurt the paint any. Just stinks.
I didn't bother taping, cause if I over-sprayed my black paint on the black plastic...
Then mount the projectors. Easy, seriously. Just unscrew the retaining clip, take the nut off, put the projector through the hole with the shaped rubber grommet on the inside, put the proper adapter plate on, screw the nut back on, then screw the retaining clip back on. Done. Repeat for the other side.
Sorry for the quality, my camera sucks. But that's what it looks like mounted. I didn't take a picture of it, but the H4 side is a bit tall and the retaining clip doesn't quite touch the back of the projector. Cut it, or leave it alone. Either way it'll screw in tight enough, and I didn't notice any detriment to brightness on the right side.
The shrouds don't fit, so you can either cut the shrouds, which I plan to do, or vacuum form your own. That looks totally awesome, and I may give it a whirl if I'm feeling adventurous this weekend.
Now, before you put the lenses back on, get some rubbing alcohol and scrub the crud out of the projector lens and the inside of the stock lens. Make sure it all dries and doesn't leave any film. You won't have another chance to clean them later, unless you take it all apart again.
Fit the stock lens back on, and put it back in the oven at 265F for 7 minutes. When you pull it out, push the lenses back into place and make sure all the clips are latched. Now let it cool and put it back in the fairings.
On to wiring.
It will all fit. Trust me. One wire goes to the battery. It has the fuse, and it just fits under the positive screw on your battery. Whew, that part was easy. Now there are two with the same ends, a short one and a long one. They go to the ballasts, and the little plug hanging off goes to the lamps, that little plug coming out the back. It's for the solenoid and it's how you go from dim to bright. The two wires off the ballasts go to the plugs on the back of the bulb. Make sure you clean the bulb like it says; if you touch the glass putting it in, clean it again!
The last plug is for the H4 side plug. You'll need to do BD34's headlight mod. http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/1663-bd43s-07-headlight-mod-part-1-a.html and http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/1666-bd43s-07-headlight-mod-part-2-a.html. Sorry. I know it's a PITA, but it's really the only way. The relay needs the low to switch for it's logic.
I think you may have to swap some of the pins around, my highs and lows are backwards. I'm working with TRS to get that straightened out. I don't think yamaha wired the plugs right to begin with.
As you probably noticed, I found a novel way to mount the ballasts. They come with this nifty bracket, and if you bend it a bit, they fit right in.
And yes, I have wires everywhere. I'm re-running some of it this weekend. I think half the mess is all the extra wire from doing BD34's dual headlight mod. I think I have 4 extra feet in there.
Once they're in and it's all wired up, start the bike.
Freaked you out when it took a few seconds to warm up, didn't it? :BLAA:
Here's them on low:
And on high:
The second picture is just in the "flicker zone". When people are in that zone, it looks like your projectors change color as you drive by to them. Awesome, huh? Any lower than this, and it washed out my camera!
And those are my new integrated mirrors too. I installed them at the same time. I hooked them up between the two colored wires on each side. Blue and Brown, and Blue and Green, I believe. The red wire from the mirrors plugs into the blue. In this set up, they work as running lights, and blinkers.
Basically, when the running lights are on, one side is hot, the other is grounded, so it flows and the LEDs turn on. When the turn signal blinks, both sides are hot, so no voltage flow through the LEDs and they turn off.
Nifty huh? Although, if you're just using the mirrors, that probably won't work.
YouTube - Integrated Mirrors
I'll post updates as I work out the shroud, and of my cleaned up wiring mess.
