Battery Not Charging....Serious problems

[viser_08]

I had a fault code of 46 recently. Since then I had lost ability to charge my battery. I originally thought I had a misfire, but I'm flat out not getting a charge.

Recently replaced...

Battery
Stator
Rec/Reg

I've tested and ohmed everything in the charging circuit, and I still am lacking a charge. At idle My battery voltage just continutely drops, even when held steady and 5000 RPM. I've got voltage comming out perfectly out of my stator of 5-8 amps AC out of each lead from my stator when running at 5K. Ground and resistance from stator to rect, battery, and body ground are all perfect. I'm not sure what else the problem is. Its not making any sense to me at all. I need some hardcore help.


Kyle

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

PM Motogiro (Cliff), he's real knowledgeable and should be able to help...

 

[Cali rider]

Sounds like a short circuit. If you are not blowing fuses its quite likely that the starter solenoid is the source. Disconnect the positive lead from it, and bump start the bike to confirm/eliminate.

 

[viser_08]

Thats a very good thought. I will attemp that tomorrow if its possible. It's been driving me bonkers. I thought that could be a possibility, but the service manual does not state a test for it, so I assumed it wasn't able to break. Everything I was testing was leading up there, but it wasn't making sense to me as to why i had no voltage. Im hoping thats the end of things...I'll find out tomorrow.


kyle

 

[pookamatic]

It sounds like you're beyond it but you can never be too sure. Fuses?

If they're ok and you're charging system is working, start checking for power further and further away from the stator until you get to the break.

 

[viser_08]

Thats exactly what I've done pook, but I havn't been able to arise to an answer. this starter relay sounds interesting to me. I know from my automotive experience the power flows threw the starter system to charge the battery. Bike are similar, but it never concuded to me that that'd be a possibility. We'll see tomorrow what the test results come out to. I'm hoping thats what I need, but I'm tired to putting money in and not getting any riding back lol.

 

[Motogiro]

The starter should not be in circuit unless the starter relay itself is active or damaged.

The battery does not go to the starter full time as it would in some cars. I know GM used to do that with the main Positive battery wire and then used fusible links from the starter to power the rest of the vehicle. The FZ6 does not do this.

If the starter is engaging and disengaging normally I wouldn't suspect it as the problem.

I would recheck everything and I'm thinking the Regulator/Rectifier should especially be suspect. Make sure it has it's ground secured as well as the battery negative lead to frame/engine ground.

This wouldn't be the first time a brand new component failed. Check the pins on the R/R - Stator plug.

I would think if you had a short big enough to dump your full boat charge you're going to take out the main 30 amp fuse or at least smell wire jacket burning.

If the main 30 amp fuse were open/blown it would not allow charge to the battery. Check that big fuse at the top of the battery...Bike shouldn't start either though...

 

[ChevyFazer]

Y'all describing everything as you have reminded me of a Cat C15 Peterbuilt 387 that I had worked on a while back. It had pretty much exactly all the symptoms that have been described here well very close to it. I was told that the starter was no good and needed to be changed out, and I was also told that the truck would run fine if push started. Well I never really went by the work order and would always diagnose the truck myself, so I started going through the trucks starting/charging system one thing at a time and the only thing I found at first was all 4 of the batteries were completely dead. Put some fresh ones in and thought I'd try to start it, hit the switch and nothing. I unhooked the battery and started chasing down the ignition system found a fuse or 2 blown. Replaced them and went to hook the battery back up, as soon as I went to reconnect the starter wire the sun'O'bich started turning over and scared the **** ouuta me lol. Quickly disconnected it and looked at the ignition to see if i maybe left it on some how, and no it was in the off position and key out, so I unhooked it and tried the batteries again. Damnit if it didn't start turning over again. Unhooked the batteries again and started thinking for a min, this model truck has a separate starter solenoid mounted on the firewall and I was thinking that was the problem at 1st, but I figured I'd give the starter relay a try first since it was easier to get to. The relay had literally fused itself shut and completely melted down on the inside, this was the 1st and only time I've ever seen a relay do this and I was shocked to say the least.

Now I know I'm comparing a big rig to a bike but the starter relay might just be something you want to look at.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Someone on the forum, not long ago, DID have a BAD GROUND from his voltage regulator causing all kinds of problems...

Don't just look at it, remove it and make sure the metal underneath it is clean. Di-lectric grease wouldn't hurt either..

 

[viser_08]

Still no luck today mates. I totally removed the ground circuit out, tested and ohmed the lines, and put them back together. Checked connections, and positive side too. No luck. Battery continues to drain after start up. Is there a chance the leads on the stator aren't correct? Stators are 3 phase. I dont recall learning a specific lead was one or the other. ?? It has juice comming out of the stator, just not into my battery. My rec/reg is brand new from Electrosport. Anymore ideas? I really didn't want to take this one into the shop.

 

[Motogiro]

Still no luck today mates. I totally removed the ground circuit out, tested and ohmed the lines, and put them back together. Checked connections, and positive side too. No luck. Battery continues to drain after start up. Is there a chance the leads on the stator aren't correct? Stators are 3 phase. I dont recall learning a specific lead was one or the other. ?? It has juice comming out of the stator, just not into my battery. My rec/reg is brand new from Electrosport. Anymore ideas? I really didn't want to take this one into the shop.

If you know for sure your stator is good, unplug the stator from the reg/rec. and unplug the reg/rec from the bike. You should be able to get a continuity reading from the red wire onthe 2 wire plug to the positive battery terminal and the black wire to the negative battery terminal. If the wires prove to be good then I would suspect the Reg/Rec. unless you had a badly sulfated battery which could act as a constant load to the system. If your battery is charging to 13 or 13 plus volts it's not sulfated. Have you charged your battery and seen it go to 13 volts?

 

[viser_08]

I did that very test after I recieved home from work today. Both had continuity, and showed good flow unhooked. I moved the wires around just to ensure no bad connections and such. I did however do pook's test moments ago on the starter realy. The test showed a total failure on both sides

Section 5 is the test.

I'm going to have to try and get a new one I think.

 

[Motogiro]

Relay should be out of circuit for testing. Ohm meter should be in 1x range.
Pins 3 and 4 should not show continuity. 3 and 4 should show open circuit.
You should get a continuity reading on 1 and 2.

The heavy lead from the battery to the relay will show the battery Pos. voltage. The heavy lead from the relay to the start should show no voltage unless of course you're starting the bike. If these conditions exist then the relay is working properly and the starter is not in circuit and drawing current.

I would suspect that the Reg/Rec is faulty. The rectifier has diodes that rectify the alternating waveform from the stator to direct current and the regulator shunts the current, creating heat into the heat sink when it reaches a threshold voltage. I suspect the regulator portion of the unit is shunting when it should not be shunting or the rectifiers are damaged.

 

[viser_08]

That was my initial thought, so I replaced it with a brand new rec/reg this week. It was still giving me the same symptoms after installing the new one. Thats why i preceeded to the next step up. I know its crazy isnt it?

 

[Motogiro]

That was my initial thought, so I replaced it with a brand new rec/reg this week. It was still giving me the same symptoms after installing the new one. Thats why i preceeded to the next step up. I know its crazy isnt it?

Are you in SoCal? I went back and read you were getting 5-8 amps out of each lead/leg of your stator!? Did you use an amprobe to see this?

 

[viser_08]

I only wish I lived out there lol. I live out in Michigan. I just use my digi multi meter. I'll recheck the amp readings at the stator again.

 

[viser_08]

Checked the stator output again. Appears I had my meter set at AC Volts. Its putting out 3-6 ac volts per lead depending on rpm, and goes higher. IN ac mA my meater only goes up to 200 mA, so it topped out pretty much right away. I'm wondering what should my stator be putting out for amps and volts?

 

[Motogiro]

Do an ohm test on your stator.

Put your meter on ohms/resistance X1 range and test between the three legs of the stator. You should read .2 to .3 ohms...


See attached PDF.

Edit: Forgot to say test each leg of the stator to ground. Against the engine, like on a bare metal bolt will be good. You should show no continuity.

 

[Motogiro]

Checked the stator output again. Appears I had my meter set at AC Volts. Its putting out 3-6 ac volts per lead depending on rpm, and goes higher. IN ac mA my meater only goes up to 200 mA, so it topped out pretty much right away. I'm wondering what should my stator be putting out for amps and volts?

Also: You may have taken out a fuse in you meter. If you put your meter across the stator leads and was in the ma range you may have overloaded it. Putting your meter on AC volts may also have varying results because of frequency generated by different RPMs. Just do the ohm test for now.

 

[viser_08]

Well apparently my New Stator is putting out a steady 4 ohms @ 51*F . I've emailed my supplier, I'm hoping they'll refund me. I'll try another test tomorrow when it warms up back into the 60's so it can be more close to the specs. what a nightmare.