Adjusting valve clearence + Throttle body sync => What do I need?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

:bow: Special thanks to everyone who helped me out in this thread... :Sport:

Bike is running just great.
(Just posted in FinalImpact's spark cap thread aswell).

I don't hear that annoying right side rattle when dropping down from mid/high range RPM so I am pretty sure that exercising/cleaning the chain tensioner was one big winner.

TO EVERYONE WHO IS ABOUT TO CHECK FOR VALVE CLEARENCE READ THIS:

When you are done rotating the crankshaft do NOT leave the wrench hanging on the end of it. After removing the chain tensioner I did just that... and guess what happened I accidently hit the wrench with my foot and heard a CLICKETICLAK... and boom... the chain was way loose without the tensioner and jumped x amount of teeth on each of the camshafts. :spank:
Had to remove and reinstall the camshafts to get everything in the right position again. Not hard work but just a complete waste of time since all was within spec to begin with and felt like a complete :squid:

Looking at this from a positive perspective (sure wasn't easy at the time I hit the wrench) maybe the off/on work with camshafts + chain + timing chain guides was part of fixing the problem with the above mentioned rattle.

Thanks again!!!

And that Carb Tuner from Morgan is highly recommended. Very suitable if your looking to share a few tools with another biker.

Glad to hear you got averything adjusted and sync'ed up. That had to be the LONGEST, valve adjustment, throttle sync ever done( hope you don't charge by the hour now!! ) Your Morgan Tuner already paid for itself too!!!

**Just a quick note for others to prevent the slipped chain sprocket towards the end of the project. When the CCT is out and everything is lined up, simply ZIP TIE THE cam chain to itself, around the middle so there is no slack and no where for it to go.


BTW, how far out (MM's) roughly were the throttle bodies?

 

[MrMogensen]

Glad to hear you got averything adjusted and sync'ed up. That had to be the LONGEST, valve adjustment, throttle sync ever done( hope you don't charge by the hour now!! ) Your Morgan Tuner already paid for itself too!!!

**Just a quick note for others to prevent the slipped chain sprocket towards the end of the project. When the CCT is out and everything is lined up, simply ZIP TIE THE cam chain to itself, around the middle so there is no slack and no where for it to go.


BTW, how far out (MM's) roughly were the throttle bodies?

Haha - actually I finished a day or two after your last post about the 2 pink stribes (carb tuning). Weather hasn't been that good, so haven't been out riding (and able to give proper judgement) until 2 days ago + I had tons of extra work (not on the bike)...

As far as I remember (can't find my note) the intake was 0.15mm and exhaust was 0.25mm (+/- 0.01mm for all). Yes it's close to the lower margin but I'll check it again if I am bored next year or in maximum 2 years time.

Throttle bodies (as you mentioned) had 3 cylinders somewhere in spec and I the 2nd cylinder (from leftside) was a bit too high.
Idle got a little higher with the newly tuned throttle bodies but when I lowered it to spec it seemed nice and smooth.

 

[MrMogensen]

Been a long time since I have been here... Didn't do much riding last year but that is going to change

Just did a fresh valve clearence check, and this time all valve clearences was exactly at minimum or very very close to it. I am guessing that the engine must have been running in a healthy manor since there is so little difference?

0,13mm (+/- 0,01) intake
0,23mm (+/- 0,01) exhaust

Went past the local Yamaha dealer and traded 14 valve pads with the thicknesses I needed (I could re-use 2 valve pads in other spots).

Question:

In 2004 shop manual page 3-14 it states I have to lubricate valvepads and valve lifters with "Molybdenum disulfide grease". I found a tube at a local megastore so luckily I am not looking for substitutes.
Molybdændisulfidfedt MoS2 - Molybdændisulfidfedt MoS2 - Biltema

How much of this stuff should I use? Should I just add a thin layer to all sides (top/bottom/side) of the valvepads and valvelifters?

I tried using the search function for molybdenum but no luck...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just both sides of the shims should be plenty. It'll transfer to pads and valves.

In all honesty, I suspect MOST folks don't use it all..

 

[FinalImpact]

MoS2 is friction modifier used to preserve / reduce wear of flat tappet cam to lifter interface...
It is the highest shear point within the entire engine. Many lubricant components protect against pressure (gear to gear) and rotation (journals & bearings) but mos2 does the best at high shear wiping interactions like the cam wiping its edge agasint the tappet and when combined with zinc keep the cam alive reducing wear.
That said, moly degrades CATs which lead to roller camshafts so they could reduce the content in oils. So some oils have much higher concentrations of moly and zinc just for non-roller engines. Amsoil being one of the higher ones...

If you ever build a non-roller camshaft engine, its the key ingredient applied to the cam / tappet interface to keep the two components from destroying each other during inital break in...

I'm not sure what the manual states, but applying it to lobes vs the shims would be my thought as Engine oil can handle the pressure no problem (bucket to shim to valve)...

 

[MrMogensen]

Manual says like this... So I was just wondering how much it needed



If I just left it there with some other type of grease (or none at all) I know I would tend to think about it with regret. It's not exactly a 1 hour job so I might aswell do everything as right as possible while I'm there!

 

[FinalImpact]

Junction of valve to bucket - tiny dab.
Junction of bucket to cam lobe - liberal amounts are not a crime.. Like the width and entire lobe.

That said these are not new parts so as long as the buckets go back where they came from (exactly), and it has liberal amounts oil, the extra lube is just for piece of mind.

The one thing I would caution people about is the wrong lube without oil could lead to increased wear. It must be moly....